4drlvr

Hi Electro I did the fix but it didnt help, seems like the coil pack is really rooted.... Cleaned the AAC idle control valve as per the DIY and it made the car a lot smoother. It doesnt hunt idle, it runs like a normal car with a bit lesser power which misses Saving up for some spitfires and we'll see how we go

HI Electro Ive done a compression test on the car and yes im losing compression. Im running about 80 in the first 2 cylinders and 110 in the next 3 and 150 in the last one. Not good and to make things a bit more interesting its starting to miss so i checkd the coil back and noticed cracks on ALLL of em!!!!!!!!!!!! Not sure on wheather to do the fix as per the DIY article of buy spitfires..... Mine also seems to have a starting problem on very cold mornings(thats everyday in melb since its winter). It cranks as normal and usually starts on the 2nd-3rd turn but if i dnt step on the accelerator it wont start and will keep turning and turning. Mechanic wants about $2500 for a swap over engine, is that a fair price...........anyone care to comment Is there also anyone who is good with coil pack. Is it worth buying new coil pack / patch the original pack up / go for spitfires. Thoughts!!!!!

Hi Guys, Im getting the exact problem. I turned the idle screw a little bit up and it start for about a month and then when it started getting colder it started doing the same thing. However saying that I know approximately how many turns the engine should start in, so what ive been doin the past few days to get over the problem at the point where i know it is meant to start, at that very moment i step on the accelerator to the floor and it starts fine......... Just though id share this info

Thanks for that guys, its an r33 dnt no how to change it on my profile so i havnt bothered. Any one recommend a place where i can get this sorted????

The car has factory keyless entry. If i press the button on the key it locks and opens all the doors fine. Its only when i press the button on the alarm remote that it wont lock the doors. Is there any possible way that the remote/ alarm might have lost its setting, somthing to do with the frequency coz i know that once an alarm is fitted to a call it has to be programmed or sumting. either way i rather leave it to the experts, you guys Help!!

But then again if it was the central locking mechanism it wouldnt lock with the key, so sumthin in the alarm that connects the central locking ???

Hi Peoples Like the titles says is the problem. The alarms been in the car for about 2 and half years and its a viper (Cant remember the model). Usually when i click the button it will immobilise the car and lock the doors as well. But now it will only immobilise the car and leave the door unlocked. I then have to use the button on the key to lock the doors. Same with opening the car ive got to open the door with the key and then press the alarm button(or else the alarm goes off). Any idea on what i have to check. Ive noticed that near the fuse box inside the car theres a couple of fuses and other stuff all taped up. Help !!!!

Hmmmm. Had a mechanic check for Vacuum leaks and he said there was none. Will try and get a afm from a mates car and then try it to see if that the issue or not. Will get the compression test done. Hmmmmm im not sure about the paranoid part (LOL) but you never know. But either way il keep you's posted. Let me know if there anything else i need to look at

Hi Guys I currently have a idling problem with the car. To give you a bit of history of when the issue started. The car overheated and turned off due to a crack in the radiator top tank. I did have starting problem but that seems to have fixed itself but the car idles at around 700-800 rpm and i remember it used to be smooth as, but now its vibrating the whole car and its not constant on the amount of vibration, sometimes not as much as other times. Secondly ive noticed the car is giving me 400 on a full tank of city driving. The car used to push atleast 480kms on a full tank. She still runs the same i do feel that it is losing power. I ve checked the spark plugs (They all look identical) the coil pack is fine, have checked the wires on the CAS and they are fine, checked the coolent sensor and its good as well The car does have an auto transmission and i know that could be the reason why its loosing power, if it is that it is very coincedential that all this started happening after the car overheated. Any ideas Shes not the same car when shes idling and id like your opinion on what i should try HELP!!!

Theres no pics ?????

Hi WogsRus Ive had a 4dr r33 1995 for the past 3 yrs now. I love the car and the car has stuck it out with me throught a lot. All ive done is put mags on it and lowered it and because its slightly longer than the coupe the car looks awesome. It looks stock and till turns heads so uve got a thumbs up from me to buy a 4dr.

If its the pump or pressure issue is there any way of checking this. The ECU Diagnostics came back fine.....

Hah this is starting to happen again. I tried to start the car this morning and it didnt start again. I know the approximate amount of turns the engione does before it starts and i let go of the key for the engine to start but it sort shuddered and didnt start. Then cranked it again and it just cranked over and over, for it to start i had to pump the accelerator to start. God damn car wats the matter with it..........

Ok Guys, this is what i did which has seemed to have fixed the starting issue. Since the car was idling a little bit lower than normal(bout 400) and almost cutting out when i put the car from drive into neutral (when the car was not moving) i decided to change the idle for it to idle bout 500 (on the line before 1 on the tacho). Turned the car off and then started it, started up with a lot more eas without me having to put my leg on the accelerator to start it. Left the car overnight and started it this morning and it started fine, still does that extra turn but it starts almost the same as it used to. Will do an oil service on the car and get it checked out on the dyno, but other than that it seems to have fixed it..... but id still like to get rid of that extra turn

Hi Boys Thanks for the info, i unplugged the CTSensor and started the car but still no go. What i also did was (did this when the CTsensor connected & disconencted...No difference) Crank the car and on 2.5 turns of the engine it wants to start but if i dont give put the accelerator to the floor at this time(when it wants to start) it wont start but will keep turning and eventually to get it started i need to pump the accelerator. Something tells me its to do with fuel, maybe fuel pressure ???? Thoughts and soz dnt have a multimeter on me but yeh........

Hi Boys Just tried the ecu diagnostics. Did the 5 long and 5 short flashes on the engine light. The car still has starting issues ???? Help

Thanks RBFIRE Will try that and keep you informed. In the mean time while im at it if i need to look at anything else plz let me no Anyone!!!!!

How do i check the coolent temp sensor, is there any specific way???? Getting fuel to the injectors??? Coincedential that it happend after i cooked the engine ??? would the overheating done anything to the injectors???

Also, there was coolent all over the engine bay when the car overheated. Is there any possiblility that coolent could have got into something is causing this starting problem. Any where i can check. So far ive checked the electrical plug connectors in the engine bay near the radiator but i woulda though if coolent got into any one of them it would create a short and blow a fuse, but no fuse is blown

It cranks fine, but it keeps cranking (sound as though there is no petrol) Ive gota pump the accelerator a couple of times for it to start. It used to be a car that wouldnt take half a crank to start before the radiator craked and the engine overheated and turned off

OK This is now starting to piss me off. The idle problem seems to have fixed itself but the car still has a problem starting after its been sitting a while (i.e. overnight, between when i leave it at work and get back to it in the evening). Im about to get my hammer out an do some damage so can someone please help. It seems like its having issues turning over/ cranking up when its cold. HELP Background info: The car had a cracked radator and overheated. After that it had an idle issue and starting problem. Reseting the ecu seemed to have fixed the idle issue but the damn car is still having starting issues. The car isnt losing coolent, not drinking oil and NOT throwing out smoke. No bubbles coming out of the radiator when you rev the car. Someone help before i do some damage please !!!!!!

Thanks for that Bl4cK32. Yeh i id get my to rev the car while i watched the radiator but no bubbles. I reset the ecu and now the idle seems to be a bit better but i think i need to drive it a bit more. IF it is the head gasket which we are almost sure, what do you recommend doing to the engine while replacing the head gasket.

Hi I did get my gf to rev the car while i checked for smoke, none at all. If Im im losing compression shoulnt it be losing power as well. The car seems as per normal to drive, so hmmmmmm. Eng temp is good as well....... Il checked the radiator thing though. Should i look for water stains around the head???

Lent my car to my folks and when they came back my dad told me that the air con wasnt working. Started the car it took an extra crank to start and was making a funny noise in the engine. Went to take the car to the mechanics to have a look at and while driving on the freeway the car just turned off. Pulled over and lifted the bonet to notice steam coming out from the radiator. Stupid me didnt look at the temp guage which was sitting on hot. Let the car cool down and then opened the radiatior and it was empty. Bought some coolent and topped the radiator up and drove home. The radiator was cracked on the top which is now fixed. But when i start the car in normal conditions it takes and extra crank to start. In the morning it just cranks and cranks and finally starts. There was coolent all over the engine bay and also when its idling its idleing a bit lower than it should which is making the car almost turn off when you accelerate (its auto). Anything i should check, as to why its not starting on the first crank like it did. Any place i should check for moisture where coolent could have got in. Other than that its fine. Please help!!!!