WogsRus

thanks mate will see over the weekend.

pivott light, $70 delivered to tas.

got to love RB's 297 rwKw and a mear 369.9 nM of torque, rev the ring out of them and go nowhere. Dam impresive result mate.

new low for me this week. 215km on 52 liters, yeeehhhaaa. My car is sooo screwed can't wait for my bits to turn up to tune it all again.

Send us a pic and i'll take it if you can do $80 including postage. It is the exhaust one for the R33 correct?

I'll take the cam gear, if in good nick, send me a pic to [email protected] What condition is it in? Was it on the car? Why are you removing it? Also Would you take $80 postage included to Tasmania?

Yeah i was going to say the same, a bit on the rich side, orange is definalty from the octane booster. Number 1 and 6 are a bit ritchen then most, well possibly it's the pics. Timming is close, but i was under the impresion that the top of electrode burn had to be as close to the end of the. quote "Ideally, you want this blue line to be just below where the ground strap makes the sharp bend and above the weld. If you advance the ignition too far the blue will disappear off the strap and the strap will pick up rainbow colors (blues and greens)." http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/read...park-plugs.html Anyway looks good either way

at the moment, 55 liters 250 kilometers, S H I T house. in town that is normaly 55 350+in town with spirited driving, i onlt drive 10 km to work so it doesn't eaven get warm

cam gear please for the second time?

Sorry i mean i have a set, the one with the odd driver side one, but mine is missing the driver side, my set was brand new, but so bastard floged the driver side in transit. No offense, the sents are fine, i am only after the driver side one.

how the f**kuc is that pissible, 4 sets of R33 mats, and non of them are the ones i need. Any chance you have a PROPER driver one, from the set that has the odd one.

Well lets just say i need a some new injectors and a new AFM but the rest is on the way, also a cam gear ordered. Not sure about power figures, still aiming for 250 rwKw but anything above 230 and i'de be happy. Hopefully Nick will sought out my current issues with the car LOL. She's gona be different allright. LOL.

Summers, hay, yeah he's gona work some magic in my car too. LOL.

nope not yet.

Can you send pics of cam gear to [email protected] and also would you take $40 if in good nick.

I agree with you GMB, you know me, compulsive tinkerer. I am going to keep my SAFC ii eaven after i get a remap, simply because it has so many usefull readouts. The other reason i want to keep a remap, is it has high and low octame maps, two different timming maps, deceleration values and a whole heap more. Anyway, i know for now it will work with the setup i have so thanks for all the advice guys. GMB, hopefully we can catch up on our cruise, hows the car going? Go the windows in?

Cos i can use my current ECU and program a new chip, plus the PFC is not what i would call a great computer. This is horspower on a budget, working well so far. LOL.

disregard topics, read enough to find out it will work

Hi all Briging up an old post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...20Z32&st=60 I got a question. I am looking at upgrading my turbo and have a Central 20 ecu, which Dr Drift can now re-chip with new maps. So that is what will hapen down the track. However for now, I know the SAFC II will accept a Z32 AFM values and convert these to stock rb25 values for the computer to use, well so it says. My question is, if i run the 440cc injecotrs, and Z32 and a new turbo, the AFR should be close due to the Z32 leaning out the mixtures and the injectors ritching them up. Either way, i don't want to get a PFC, i'll get my ecu rechiped, but for now, would this work? Any idea if the above project worked?

some more power on the way, need to move house first dam it.

yeah except don't go over 50 psi, as teh can explodes, i tried it with a plastic high pressure cap for plumbing, still exploded at 50 psi, but the manifold leak is a lot harder as the engine needs to be in such a position so that the vales are closed and not allowing air to go through the engine and out the exhaust. Anyway have fun.

It's the ebay one isn't it. LOL. Well being designed for a 4L engine and it's characteristics, it would propably come on boost fairly late, but once on make good power, i'd go out on a whim an say 270rwKs or so at 17psi. I am sure i have heard that someone has done this already.

i never said i'd win it. I'de like to LOL. It's a fairly old style compressor but who knows. Good luck

nope read my post i am also looking at it, i have the specs i'll release after if i don't win it.

it's a bush bearing 360 deg thrust.