WogsRus

Oh i forgot to say, the Ox sensor is 1 year old, and if i unplug it it still does exactly the same. I have the old one i will try, but i think it's something else. my ECU has been tested onother cars and found to be A OK.

Hi Guys. Well ok so my car seams to have never ending niggling problems, mainly related to me being so dam anal about being perfect. The car has the mods as listed in my sig. Central 20 maped ecu + SAFC II. The SAFC II was tuned with the Central 20 ecu to give optimal results, and pulled 217 rwkw at 14.9 spi. Walbrow pump, FMIC, intake and filter. Basically all I needed to get the power I was after wich was anything over 200 rwKw. Ok so here it goes. I have two main issues, SO PLEASE READ ON AND HELP ME. 1)I had the car tuned and so forth about 6 months ago or more, and ran like a charm, never had any issues perfect, finally. Then we had a massively hot summer day in Tas, yes these do happen, and the car had issues producing boost. My first thought was that i damaged the motor, so i checked the compression, and i got 155psi across all the cylinders. I did not do a leak down test however. The car does not use any oil, or blow smoke, as such, the turbo seal is a little weeping when cold, but hay. Every since that day i have been having cold start issues with the car. Basically the car will start to fire then bog down and miss, to 400 rpm and then cough and clear itself and idle fine at 1200 rpm. Any other time after that if i start the car it starts without caring on, BUT it still does not start properly. On a normal skyline, when hot, if you crank it over the car will momentarily rev to 1200 pm and then settles to a steady idle. MINE DOES NOT. The car will start at 500rpm and rise to 750 rpm and hole. SOMETIMES it does do the 1200rpm and drop, but only, say 1 out of 50 starts. So far i have done the following: -New plugs, All good. -Checked compression, still all 155psi even. -Checked for vacuum leaks, but vacuum appears to be as per before, still to do more searching. Found a hose loose on the intake side fixed that no difference. Still to follow up on full vacuum tests on the hosing and intercooler. -AAC valve cleaned, and rechecked, and appears to work correctly. Tested with consults, appears to open and closes when tested through consults. -Redline fuel injector cleaner, special stuff. New fuel filter, new fuel lines. ALSO did the following test. I put a fuel pressure gauge in and tested the fuel leakage and so forth. Basically if left alone the fuel pressure eventually bleeds off to 14.5 psi, over the night, which is to spec, I need to find the correct page again to give details. So then I pressurized the system and blocked off supply and return. The reading was 40psi, after and hour still 40 psi, after 2 hours 39 psi, but this was at night 11:30pm to be exact. Then over night the pressure dropped of to 20psi or so. However I was told that the pressure loss is worked out over 30 minutes, so if there is no substantial pressure loss the system is ok. THIS IS TAKEN FORM A MECHANIC THAT WORKS ON FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS. CAN SOMONE CONFIRM. Also pressurised each the fuel rail with air and pulsed injectors to remove ANY FUEL form injectors. NO GOOD. -Checked for blown head gasket by getting a snifter test, came back negative. I have no water in the oil, or oil in the water. I did have some frof in the water, but I traced that down to the fact that I had some washing detergent left over in the bucket used to refill the water, and this coursed the water to froff a little. All fine now, no more frof. Another thing I did, was to put some pressure into the radiator, not sure how much, but with a hand pump, so very little. I took the plugs of this morning, turned the fuel pump off, and run the engine with paper towels in the holes, no water visible from the strokes of the engine. I let the engine crank over for a while like that to ensure that there was noting in the cylinders, fuel or water. Put the plugs in, and the car still started like crap. So I don’t think a leaking injector or water in the block is the cause. No visible smoke in tail pipe, no overheating, no sweet smell from the exhaust. -Put a new ECU temp sensor in, no good -rechecked timing, and still as per before. -cleaned air filter, no good, new air filter no good. -Fuel pressure and flow correct -Spark plugs all look even and nicely colored. - Put in some temporary earths and nothing. -Cleaned all the electronic connectors, put on contact cleaner, and some sand paper, ECU and engine side, still nothing. -checked cold start, but not sure. Put some air through it, appeared to work ok???? Is there a better test for this other then disassembly? -Reset the computer, drained all the fuel out of injectors, opened all the air bleed vents, and then restarted it the next morning, and it still did it. -New CAS. No good. I am beginning to think it's the ACC valve in some way, but no idea how. PLEASE ANY ADVICE. 2) This issue is linked to the above. When car comes onto boost at low rpm, say bellow 3500 @ 12 or above psi, the car stumbles, and farts around like it was hitting R&R witch the ecu does not have and was never a problem before the above occurred. The car feels like something is holding it back, it literary feels like it stops momentarily, and then bang off it goes into wheel spin. This only happens under high boost and high TP%. I did a consult run, no issues there, all sensors are ok. HOWEVER i noticed that when this anomaly happens, the cars O2 sensor drops out to zero, and then back again, then to zero and so forth. VERY WEIRD. So i tried to add more fuel in with the SAFC II and nothing, no matter how much fuel i add or remove, it still does it. I have tried a new AFM and a CAS and no good. The car still makes great power up top no issues but bogs down at low rpm. It is using about a 53 per 350 kms in town. I have no idea what it may be. Could a cracked valve or something cause any of the above? What about the PCV in the rocker cover? Could a faulty AAC valve cause issues like this? I need some help as all the mechanics down here in tas have basically no idea. Can someone, anyone, give me some advice. I have searched 4 different forums for answers to no avail. THANKS. PLEASE HELP ME.

yeah going to chech that today, i have some pluming end caps to allow for plumming up of the air compressor and looking for leaks that way. also founf on the net that the plug near the washer bottle can couse problems, so i am going to clean it up and redo the connection to make sure it's AOK. other then that i am out of idea.

car is fine in high revs THE LOW REVS ARE THE PROBLEM below 3500rpm.

Ok got new AFm and CAS and nothing. New plugs and still there. I think it's time to go to the shop and let them strip me of my money to fix it.

but i thorght that the safc II would compensate for the new AFM, well atleast it should accoring to the net and the manual??? can somone elaborate as i am in thesame boat.

The plugs are 6's and are spot on to look at. Yeah got consults, pickes up nothing. My voltage on the AFM at 750 rpm is 1.2V i think that is OK. I did a log of the car this morning and noticed that as soon as it does this and goes funny, the oxygen sensor drops to zero and then bounces back then back to zero, WHAT THE????

ok so i gapped the car down to .6mm gap and DAM it goes EAVEN WORSE. I mean below 4000rpm it's like a tracktor, the thing missfires and shit, compleat shit, and then bag wheel spin. I downloaded the rom and yeah i have no airflow limit, so the ecy should be fine. What can couse missfire/splutering at low rpm. This suxxxxxx. Is it possible an airflow meter or a cam angle sensor. Could it be a knock sensor? HELP ME PLEASE

Ok so i should have clarified eaven further. The computer has been on the car for ages, and running with the SAFC II to bring the power up eaven more. The ECU is a generic one that is put out with Central 20 cars, so it uses all stock componenst and sensors, with new maps and so forht, The car made in the current form, with Central 20 ecu and the SAFC II as per my sig 217 rwKw. The car ran fine for agen but one hot day something went funcy, and every since it is hard to start cold, and the car feels the way it does. The car WAS tuned in teh car with an SAFC II on a dyno, with perfect AFR's The car was running fine for ages, say 6 months, only a recent thing. Nothing has changes in the car mod wise. DOES that clarify anything?

crock of shite, the unless your running oversized injectors and you don't know about it, then the reg should be fine, a stock reg works at 38.5 psi static.

plugs are relatively new, and gap is 1mm, i have had 0.8mm but made no differance, it is being a dog at low rpm not high, humm who knows, but it is certainly strating to piss me off. oh yeah sorry Paul, the ecu has been in for ages and ran great, only last 4 months being crap.

yeah the funny thing is mine ran great and then something happend and it ran like shit.

Ok so today i had my bin file from the CENTRAL 20 ECU looked at, and apparently it has no boost cut, and speed cut removed (knew that one) and 6900 rpm limit. However what is happening, at 15 psi, the car feels like it is hitting a brick wall, and jolting, and then above 3500rpm takes of fine, no issues what so ever. Below 12 psi, the car feels fine, a little retard posible but otherwise ok. This ecu pulle 217 rwkw on my current setup, but over the past 4 months the car just has not felt right. I have done heaps of test for stuffed sensors and consults ect. and nothing there. Car usesd about one tak per 300 km in town. The car developed a cold start issue, where as it started on 3 cylinders, cleared it throat, and then all 6 fire up. I have checked everything as per this post. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...820&hl=cold Can somone tell me what i might need to look for. I will get the car tested soon, but need some ideas in the mean time. HELP ME, AGAIN. LOL>

genuine kit from nissan USA is $210 Au delivers, and $390 au from an australia dealer. If you need one get it from the USA.

so you have had a look then so essentialy i should not be hitting and R&R at all. Esentialy what it feels like at the moment, is that below 3500 rpm the car feelslike it hits a brick wall and then takes off, like R&R on the old computer. It started doing this since i have had y cold start strugle and no idea what it is, maybe my AFM is stuffed?

humm so anyone else?

thanks budy but how do i know what the max air flow meter R&R is?

Hi This is the bin file for my R33. Can anyone who has the software to have a look at what the airflow protection is set to and if it does indead have it. If not can somone point me to the software which will enable me to have a look at what is inside the ecu. Its a Central 20 ecy and i think it is only maped for 0.8 bar but not sure. PLEASE WogsR33.zip

it's 3 degress from memory. i have the manual at home will have a looksee tonight.

yeah the BIG garage is there, that was a pre-requsite, and it's got plenty of workshop area. I am goign to look at bennos when he gets back and then the one at Eurotech, not in anny hurry. The bike will propably wait a bit, i want a track car first.

I wander how they did it. I know the R33 sucks to jump start eaven if the batery is flat, so unless they towed it, how the hell. Must of had a new battery or something. There has been so many car crimes lately, if i ever catch anyone braking inot my car, i am going to beat the shit out of them.

yeah all the stuff is final finaly, setelment ends 12th july. yeehhhaaa. Can't wait for teh house warming party.

well i saw that car last night cos my friend live in the same street. The car was there still at about 1am when i drove past.

definatly not suppose to be there. I have 2 lying arround. It looks like your gasket is shaged though. The one between the turbo and the manifold.

whooohhhooo Wog just broght a house. YYYEEEHHHAAAAAA