WogsRus

hay nothing wrong with running 15 psi on a stock turbo, for some reason i can't kill mine, been doing it for a year now, and the bustard still wont die. Actually its 15.6 psi. HIHIH.

yeah having cold start issues still, definatly not a head gasket, somethign electronic, cos every now and then it works fine. maybe a leak somewhere i don't know, but i have searched and pulled just about everyhting off and still nothing. LOL. My current engine is going strong, no issues there, but i am not sure if i am willing to put it under more stress and go bang. I am actually about to purchase some engine bits and use the stock crank ofset and reground to increase the engine capacity. I have an engine in bits abvailable for purchase. The reason i am enquiring here on the net about the above kit, is that a simmilar kit on a website in Oz is about 3.5K.

Another question, how much can stock Rb25 rods, shot pined and preped handle?

Ok so i know ebay is a bit sceptical sometimes. but http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SKYLINE-RB2...emZ260119175236 so that is $1080 Us for Wiseco pistons and eagle rods. and rings to suit. I have heard that the rings are shit though, is that correct?

Yeah i know there is not much if i increase the displacment, it's more of a "can i do this" approach. Hay GMB, do you need a hand with the liner to get it back on the road. I am seing a man about a dog today, i'll see if he has any rear quater windows for you.

Yeah i saw that, but i have some time yet, i need to wait 6 more weeks fo rthe settelment to go through to get the rest of the money. I mean i have it on paper but not in hand. LOL. hows your rig going?

yeah going to look at bennos when he gets back, and the one from eurotech. I will need a running one to test and one to play with, if all goes well, i will sell the kit to stroke and RB25. If i use stock pistons and stroked strock crank i will get just over 2.6 liters. had a look out our budget, and so far so good. I need my mate to get back from site, he is supervising one of my poject on site, so he can do the crank resizing for me.

well the new tank will be all alluminium so i was hoping to simply have teh fuel pumps sitting in the tank, but will see.

opps i just noticed i meant 10500rpm redline d i ck h ead

first of all, did you plum the gizzmo in correctly, secondly i presume it is connected? LOL. Ok do you know how to set the boost pressure? Once you set the gain, you need to go and drive the car through the firts 3 gears hard, if you have a steep hill that helps better, as it loads tha car up more. This will then give you a set pressure again the gain you have set, if you want more boost increase the gain, and vice versa. When seting boost make sure the responce is set to zero, only after the boost pressure is set, increase responce. or read this OK well I have one, and just about know the full ins and outs on this thing, have been stuffing with it for about 6 months. Ok the way the controller works is to set a desired solenoid duty, this is how fast it opens and closes, the higher the number the higher the boost. HOWEVER the number does not relate to boost directly. For example, 14 duty, does not mean 14 psi. The controller is limited to what gate you have. If the stock gate is preset to 7psi, lowest setting you can run is 7 psi. The way to preset the controller is as such. Find a nice stretch of road, LONG and 100kph plus. 1) Hold down the top button for 5 seconds. Once this happens it will flash the number to preset the duty. For an R33, 10psi is about 45 duty, but this differs. 2)press down on the top button until the desired duty number is reached. START with 10. 3) After the duty has been preset, wait 5 seconds until the IBC goes back to monitor mode. 4) Once in monitor mode, take the car for a run, you need to load the car up good, so a WOT run in 2 and 3 will do, but you will go wayyy over 100kph so be careful. While accelerating keep an eye out on the boost to make sure you don't over boost. 5) after the run, press the controller top button, this will go to setting 2 for boost, then press the down button to go back to the previous boost setting. This will display the maximum boost reached. 6) If the boost reached is low 7psi, increase the duty of the solenoid, and then go for another run. Continue to do so until you reach the desired boost level. Repeat step 1 onwards again. 7) If you want do this for 4 different setting. Just as an EXAMPLE on my car with all the mods listed, following duty corresponds to each boost 25=8psi, 35=10psi, 49=12psi, 67=14.5psi. NOW once you get the duty set, it's time to set the response. This sets how fast you build boost, too much and you will over boost, tooooo little and it will be laggy. 1) Select the desired boost memory to work on. 2) Hold down the bottom button for 5 seconds 3) Once in the setting mode, increase the number. Start low say 5 and go from there. The higher the number the faster the boost will build. HOWEVER The number depends on boost reached. At 7 psi you will need a higher number to build fast boost, as the turbo is not very efficient at this low boost. So for example at 7 psi the response might be 30 but at 14 psi it will be 2. If you set the response too high, the car will surge, the boost will rise and drop VERY fast, back off on the response for that particular boost setting. HOWEVER if you have a mismatched wastage, and you have boost creep, you can minimize this by allowing some over boost on the controller. So what you do is set the response higher, so that the turbo over boosts, but by the time the IBC has reacted the wastage creep has caught up and boost remains steady. IF you have BAD CREEP issues, reduce the DUTY of the solenoid by 4, and increase the RESPONCE by 2 or so. This will allow for some moor creep control by intentionally over boosting the initial boost setting. Basically you want to set the response in such a way, that the gate opens 1 psi before the desired boost is reached, this can only be done by trial and error. WHEN setting the response, you do not need to go for a drive and boot it, it will work itself out during normal driving. SO I hope this covers it. HIHIHIHI If anyone has any question PM me, I don't know if there are many people that have as much experience as me. I really went to town on this thing, as far as getting the functional description from the manufacturer to see how the thing works. LOL. Forgot to add. In Cold weather, you will have to reset the duty, colder air easier to compress, hence higher boost setting will occur, as the boost controller always monitor boost settings, so if you preset it to 12 psi, but on a cold night reach 13psi, it will always then try to go to 13 psi. This is same for most controllers, which sux. BUT i found the gizzmo works well, sure it has it's downfalls, mainly that the boost can change depending on temperature, but it is fast, easy to use, well once you know how to and has great closed loop controll. Same goes for hot eather, hot weather means harder to build boost, so lower boost.

looking good matie, i have to respray my front and rear bar aswell.

nice good luck with it.

What you need a cage for??? Well got my 75K so time to spend some money. New engine will consist off.... RB25 block, decked and new sleeves put in to accept 93mm pistons. Offset and ground crank, nitrided, blah blah blah, you know the usual. This should bring the swept volume to 2.9 litters and a 100500 rpm redline. New sump, and N1 oil pump with modified squirters and return. Stage 2 pon cams, possible solid lifters not sure. Tomei springs and valves. 800cc injectors, top feed with twin entry custom rail, 3 bosh 040 pumps and surge tank. I have no idea in regards to engine management, tossing up weather to go Wolf V5 or something similar. OS Giken clutch twin plate, 2 way lsd, new breaks and suspension, no idea what yet. Not sure if the set-up will be a big single or 2 smaller huffers. I want response and power. BUT that is still some 2 years away. At the moment I am acquiring spear engines, to test the crank and new liners, and seeing as I will do all the work myself, should save a fair bit of money. Keep an eye out.

I'm with Shannons, got all my mods and my agreed avlue, but i am 27 so hay.

if its and R33, the fuel reg is on the fuel rail, i think, and i can't see the photo properly, if that is a photo taken in the Driver side wheel arch wall, then its a damper and an drain valve. The r33 has it to stop pulsing of the fuel flow and antydrain back to the tank.

for long term sollution get proper adjastuble castor rods with nolathane bushings.

Front castor rod, being a rose type, it is most propably squicking on that, see if you spray some wd40 on the rose joint, the part atached to the chassis, not the suspention, if it goes away.

Does this fit a standard R33 turbo and piping setup?

migt be interested

Yeah well rebuild is the way i want to go. Need to see what con the other motor is. I have figured out if i ofsett and grind the crank, new sleves, 2.9lt is possible.

Oh yeah, cool i sent him a new message to confirm details to go and check it out. Do you know much about it? Condition ect. I am looking for something i can either drop straight in, or rebuild to be tough asssss. AND since i just broght a house, and have some EXTRA cash, time to spend.

How much is Benno asking for it, and who is he, any contacts ect. Yeah not sure if it is teh seals or just the turbo having enough of my punishment. She drives ok for now. Is that motor for sale the forged one somone had for sale here for 5K.

a little birdy tells me that the setup is still the same AFAIK. anyway, i recon my motor is about to blow or something, cos when it's cold, and it getrs a bit of a boot full, i get some gray smoke out the exhaust, only a little but enough to know it is there. NO issues when warm, or on deceleration ect, It hasn't use any oil, if it has i can't tell. Maybe the stock turbo at 15psi is FINALY starting to let go. Anyone have a motor lying arround?

The difference is I can still beet you but mine is all nice and civilised, quiet and refrained. LOL. Glad to see you finally go it back on the road. Will you still be selling it then? I just came into a lot of CASH, so see what's what, but I want to build a 500kw monsta.

i don't know why you said suprised, i have ahd 6 let go over the past 4 years.