WogsRus

i know this might have already been tested, but a stuffed CAS will also have simmilar results.

Well yeah i tend to agree dynos are different, but i have had mine on 3 different ones, and 2 read exactly the same, or near enough, 5kw differance, but simmilar day conditions, and one read under by 10, once again on a simmilar day.

yeah my car pulled 187rwKw with a central 20 ecu at 7 psi, and all the supporting mods.

Well it sure seams to work fine on my car, but here in Tas our temps are a lot lower. What insulation do you guys run on your boxes. I have my box fully sealed, with thermo foam, and a piped inlet from the outside. All i know is that the temperatures of teh car running arround town, and sitting in trafic, have made a hudge differance. I am also about to reroute my IC piping, so the turbo pressure air goes accross teh top of the radiator, and then back across the fornt, and into the intake througha short run, ie: reverse the flow of the IC, i have a hybrid one. The pipes will also be double skined with an air gap inbetween, and this makes a hudge differance, trust me on that, i am a mech engineer that is what i do best. I belive that the system works.

yeah i noticed it did the same with the old ecu in it, maybe the CAS is funny?

Nope sorry not a PFC, it's a Central 20 ecu with SAFC II, as a pigiback. I will see tonight about the trace, it might be right that it is jumping cells. Thanks

hi guys So i have been using datascan to try and find out some issues with my car, and basically, what i have notice at idle, the timming in the car is very irratic. It jumps from 5-15-10-5-15, all over the place. Is this normal or what the hell is going on. Here is a log of it. SOMONE HELP Running_to_work_13.04.07modified.zip

finished prepearing the inside, cage electrics ect, all wee need now is a GOOD engine, lol, and 2 days left. LOVE IT.

I have already done this to my car, need to dig up the files, but i found mainly the differance was in town, the heatsoak in the car was dramatically reduced, and i do mean dramatically. My box is preatty well insutaled with thermo foam, do a search. can't remember all the temp details, but it does help. Good luck looking farward to your results.

thats the HKS light intake kit, you can find these arround. I am hoping to make one where i can still use the light closer to the rad as a light.

Yeah i saw you too, nit sure if it was anyone from the forum or not.

Thanks guys, so i suppose i better get a full VRF engine kit, which i can get from the US, for $200 AU delivered, that way i have all the seals i need and it's chepper. Yeah i will replace all the bits I need, thanks for the advice guys.

yeah it's preatty easy to do, basically you just need a slenoid valve, these are available at most electrical automotive workshops, bosh part suppliers, and best bet is PETROJECT. You may require two selenoid valve, one on each incoming line. In regards to how long it will take to get the new fuel through, well propably quite a bit, my car ran for 2 minutes on the fuel in the fuel rail allone. i would expect that it would take about 10-15 minuts to empty the fuel in the swirl pot and the fuel line. YOUR BIG problem will be that the return fuel needs to go to the tank as well, so that means eventualy the fuel will mix down eventually. There is no way you can stop this from occuring.

yeah i will be doing the belt, but i figured do the pump aswell???????

well the belt looks fine, no nicks or wear marks as such. Yeah i can get the bearing here direct for about $80 or so, so not bad, the bearings don't make any weird noise, but it is better to change a $100 part then a whole engine. Looks like i'll be doing the water pump while i'm at it.

Hi Guys well the car has traveled 85K and i pulled the cover off last night to have a good look and see what condition the belt is in. The belt looks fine, eavenly warn, no cracks or anything, still original nissan item. The thing is, there is a fair bit of slck on the belt. I can turn the exhaust cam about 1/2 a toth back and forth. I took pics, and sorry about quality it was late at night and camera sux. Is there any way to adjust the slack on the belt, or is it already at max travel. I will replace it shortly, but at the moment i still need to drive the car. Can somone have a look and comment. ALSO when i change the belt, do the water pump, and idler pullies aswell at the same time, yeah? Where is the best place to get idler pullies from? ACL?

Sam AKD Dr Drift, is not really as mate, juts i happen to know him. I talked to him about 1 month ago, and still had some way to go, best you contact him directly. Just do a search for DR Drift.

yess but error sensor 13 is also connected to CAS, TRUST me on this, try a new one or one that works for sure. My mates skyline had the same issues,

can you send some pics to my PM or email at [email protected]. Thanks. Looking at bare motor only.

yeah still not as easy, the type of chip these use means you need to burn a new chip everytime, but the way i understand sam is setting it up, is that he can do incar realtime programing to get the car runnign as it should, and the burn the rom to suit after the tuning has been done. Then if things change in the car, you have to do it again. The thing is, with the ECU being already setup, all you need to do is burn new chip, so saving some money already haveing an ECU that is capable of using the plug in roms. will have to wait and see how sam goes with it all.

YES YOU CAN REMAP THESE, read on. I have one and SAM DR Drift, is in the process of testing the final version of the hardware to write these chips. The chip still needs to be replaced with a new one everytime you do a burn, but it will work once the hardware is up and running. I have one of these in an R33 and it makes 217 rwKw at 14.9 psi with an SAFC and supporting mods. They still run a bit ritch, and had to back base timing off to 13 deg as at high boost i got some pinging. Mine still hass some air flow protection at 14 psi and low revs, so that's fine with me. It's a cheep upgrade, but eventually you will need to go to a fully programable computer.

hihi, well we have still so much to go, not eaven sure if the car will be there yet. DAM IT.

i had something simmilar happen in a mates car, the car was constantly comming up with code 13, and it turned out to be a CAS.

mental note, never type when pissed, dam, it looks like jiberish.

oh well if it is the valve seals, loks like i get to build my 500HP motor. LOL. Yeah at the momenti amnot really warried about it, it mainly started when i got the new thinner synthetic oil in it, will try different bra and type next chan,approx 1k away. She has definetly not used any oil over the past 4K kliks, so so far it's all good.