
WogsRus
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Everything posted by WogsRus
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Head Gasket, Leaking Fuel Injector, What Could It Be
WogsRus replied to WogsRus's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
yep did that, all working. The AAC and the IAC valves are clean as a whissle. I am getting another one to test, but it all works with consults. -
Head Gasket, Leaking Fuel Injector, What Could It Be
WogsRus replied to WogsRus's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
why would exhaust leaks couse cold start issues???? sorry no idea???? -
Head Gasket, Leaking Fuel Injector, What Could It Be
WogsRus replied to WogsRus's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
bumpidybump -
well i have had mine as high at 15.9 for short burst in the scramble boost for 5 seconds, but i wouldn't recomend it. I have had my tunner reach 14psi no probs on a safe tune, but this is only recomended for short power runs. The R33 turbo has a max efficiency of 12.x psi, can't remember exact figures, after that the increase in air flow is not as large as say goign form 7 to 9 psi. It is possible. I have run my car wiht higher boost settign for 2 months now, no issues, turbo looks and spins as if it were brand new.
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dam it i want one now. What boost were you running to get 320 hp on what setup.
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Ok so someone please help wog out, I’m going nuts. So basically this is what has been happening to my car. "Hey just a small annoyance with my cold start. When starting the car up for the first time on the day the idle goes to like 600,700rpm kinda stumbles then just revs out kind of wakes up and then just warms up normally and yeah everything else is fine i know kind of picky but yeah just abit annoying. For the rest of the day turn the car on when cold warms up normal but if its not driven for more than a day or two then yeah does it again could be the cold but also wondering if it may be related to the tps??" So basically, lately, it seems like the car in the morning simply does not want to start, it coughs and so forth and carries on for 5 seconds, then fine, smooth as silk idle nothing. Almost like it only runs on 4 cylinders first and then all 6 come into line. The compression test is ok 150 across all cylinders. Rechecked yesterday still correct. Have not performed a leak down test yet. So, so far i have done the following. -New plugs, All good. -Checked compression, still all 150psi even. -Checked for vacuum leaks, but vacuum appears to be as per before, still to do more searching. Found a hose loose on the intake side fixed that no difference. Still to follow up on full vacuum tests on the hosing and intercooler. -AAC valve cleaned, and rechecked, and appears to work correctly. Tested with consults, appears to open and closes when tested through consults. -Redline fuel injector cleaner, special stuff. New fuel filter, new fuel lines. ALSO did the following test. I put a fuel pressure gauge in and tested the fuel leakage and so forth. Basically if left alone the fuel pressure eventually bleeds off to 14.5 psi, over the night, which is to spec, I need to find the correct page again to give details. So then I pressurized the system and blocked off supply and return. The reading was 40psi, after and hour still 40 psi, after 2 hours 39 psi, but this was at night 11:30pm to be exact. Then over night the pressure dropped of to 20psi or so. However I was told that the pressure loss is worked out over 30 minutes, so if there is no substantial pressure loss the system is ok. THIS IS TAKEN FORM A MECHANIC THAT WORKS ON FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS. CAN SOMONE CONFIRM. -Checked for blown head gasket by getting a snifter test, came back negative. I have used some water recently, but it’s marginal amounts, maybe 100ml or so. I have no water in the oil, or oil in the water. I did have some frof in the water, but I traced that down to the fact that I had some washing detergent left over in the bucket used to refill the water, and this coursed the water to froff a little. All fine now, no more frof. Another thing I did, was to put some pressure into the radiator, not sure how much, but with a hand pump, so very little. I took the plugs of this morning, turned the fuel pump off, and run the engine with paper towels in the holes, no water visible from the strokes of the engine. I let the engine crank over for a while like that to ensure that there was noting in the cylinders, fuel or water. Put the plugs in, and the car still started like crap. So I don’t think a leaking injector or water in the block is the cause. No visible smoke in tail pipe, no overheating, no sweet smell from the exhaust. -Put a new ECU temp sensor in, no good -rechecked timing, and still as per before. -cleaned air filter -Fuel pressure and flow correct -Spark plugs all look even and nicely colored. -Car was tuned 4 weeks ago, this started 2 weeks after that, after we had some massive heat waves in Tas (not sure if this coursed some pinging or anything, not from memory). Also noticed since then the car has lost some boost in high gears, but this is more likely related to 1 missing stud and leaks in the exhaust manifold. CORRECT? - Put in some temporary earths and nothing. -Cleaned all the electronic connectors, put on contact cleaner, and some sand paper, ECU and engine side, still nothing. -checked cold start, but not sure. Put some air through it, appeared to work ok???? Is there a better test for this other then disassembly? -Reset the computer, drained all the fuel out of injectors, opened all the air bleed vents, and then restarted it the next morning, and it still did it. Probably ½ dozen other things, just can’t remember what? I am going to try some block sealer, to see if maybe there is a small chance there is a head gasket leak somewhere. Tomorrow I am having it tested again. HOWEVER If i turn off the ecu temp sensor, it is fine, if i disconnect the AFM it is fine. I have not checked cold start operations in Consults yet. Also have yet to put in a NEW AFM, old ecu and go from there. I am at a losssss??????? HELP. NOW please don’t tell me to take it to a mechanic, have been to 3 here in Tas and no one knows anything about imports so I have no where else to go. I did have two error codes, 13 and 21, have since traced back and fixed, it as nothing no more issues, will redo error codes tomorrow. SO CAN IT BE A HEAD GASKET???? Or just issues with electronics. What the hell is it. It use to be fine. No all of a sudden, it’s a dog. Need to see what is going on to fix it ASAP. SOrry for the long winded post
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actually there is a stuff that wokrs, have been using it for years on my bikes and cars, it's a specailty thing from the US. It is only found in FEW Specialty stores. It has 3d prisim glass particles in it, you can feel the in the paint. When you spray it on, these seam to line up somehow while the paint dries and is fine, looks ok when dry, possibly a bit dull and not as reflective. BUT when a flash hits the paint, it goes bazerk, you simply can not read the plate. I have not had a fine ever. I wish i had a pic of teh bike with the phot of teh plates. UNFORTUNATLY, the bike is recently sold, and the car has new plates, so i need some more.
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Filling Gearbox Throught The Shifter
WogsRus replied to LBR33's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
yepp that is the simplest way to do it if you have a 5L bottle. Worked for me -
leaking fuel injector or regulator? maybe. having simmilar issues myslef.
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Fitting A Baby Seat To A 96 R33 Gts-t Type M
WogsRus replied to HUNTZ's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
yeah i have a seat in teh back of mine, there are 3 mounting points in the parcel shelf. Well mine does. I simply followed the instructions form the manufacturer. The only thing now, is that my son is old enought ot go to a proper booster seat, and THESE DO NOT FIT IN THE BACK, DAM BUCKETS> LOL -
'amec' R33 Skyline White Face 300 Km/h Speedometer Cluster Kit
WogsRus replied to WogsRus's topic in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
Yeah they are the ones of eBay, butt AMEC has them as a groop buy here on SAU -
either, i would prefer standard, but the SAFC Ii will conver from Z32 to standard.
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'amec' R33 Skyline White Face 300 Km/h Speedometer Cluster Kit
WogsRus replied to WogsRus's topic in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
Sorry fixed now. THIS IS THE CORRECT LINK http://www.cyberstork.com/cgi-bin/howto.cgi?sel=img http://www.cyberstork.com/cgi-bin/howto.cg...amp;imgtp=ecr33 Also here are some pics of what it looks like with the new cluster and blue leds. Sorry about the quality, my camera is soooooo old. -
Ok so did some more snoping arround. The fuel injectors are fine as far as i can tell. The pump seams to hold pressure ok. I cleaned up all the conectors, inside engine bay, and ECU. Checked watter, defnatly ok, so far. Well i think, there was a little missing, but that was becaus ei opend the cap 3 times with watter spilling out when the engine was hot. BUT what i found, was that if the AFM was disconnected, the car started fine, as per usual, no isses no splatters or anything. Does this mean the AFM is stuffed, or possibly a massive air leak, My vacume is about 17 mmHg on the guage. Hay toffy, if you read this, can i borrow an AFm for two days to test if this is teh couse.
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NO PROBS MATE, I LIVE IN cHURCHILL AVE, ABOUT 1K FURTEHRN THEN PLACE NUMBER 1, AND IT TAKES ME PROPABLY 30 MINUTS TO WALK HOME PISSED AS A NIT, AR ABOUT $12 BY TACI FORM THE DOCKS
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dud it's hobart, anywhere you get a place is 10 minuts from town. BUT the first place (1) is crap, theer is parking available on teh opposite side of the road, but i wouldn't leave my car there. TOOO many people driving past and all. Number 2) is ok location wise, it's actually more Toroona or so (can't speel it properly) propably 12-15 minuts drive. Number 3) is off lower cascade road, not bad, get preatty cold though.
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YEAH THE ecu was second hand, and worth it. There are some kicking arround on the net all the time. I go this one cos i knwo what it had done on a previous car, wiht no issues.
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Personalised Number Plates
WogsRus replied to Cheeky_Nympho's topic in General Automotive Discussion
When i get a my R33 GTR. i want 2WIN2BO. However for now, in Tas plates are finaly availabe, so WOG 001 for the liner and WOG 002 For the 200 kW Magna. -
Sigh Some People Just Dont Give Up........
WogsRus replied to Ten Four's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
That car is Jason Whites old Targa car. I sent the person a message staing so and have not recind an email. Itell you what, i have wenkas like him, trying to sell off shit like that. -
OK so here it goes. USE THIS AS A GUIDE ONLY. SORRY NO PICS, VERY DARK WORKSHOP AND CRAP CAMERA. so pics were crap. The basic guide on how to remove the dash is here. http://r33stereo.groovesystems.net/ and http://www.cyberstork.com/cgi-bin/howto.cg...amp;imgtp=ecr33 So please follow that. Essentially once you remove the main 3 bolts shown in the tute, the whole surround can be gently pulled out from the dash. The Main surround has some 6-8 clips holding it in place. The easies way I found to remove it was to slowly work my way around, from the centre working my way out to the driver window. You may also need to remove the surround, around the steering wheel. I did, as I have an SAFC mounted to mine, so I could not slide the main surround out. Once you have the surround free from its clips, undo the wiring loom for the switches, there is 3 in total, hazard lights, rear demist and power mirrors. You will also notice a small single lead wire and a hose going from the main dash surround to somewhere under the dash. This is the hose and sensor for the climate control, disconnect these. With all the looms disconnected and the main surround free, you can tilt it forward and remove it. BE CAREFULL NOT TO SCRATCH THE MAIN SARROUND. I DID, BUGGAAAAAA. With the Main surround out, you will see the cluster has a bezel on it, it is held in place by 4 bolts. Remove these. This will expose the cluster and the bolts holding it in place. With the exposed cluster, undo the tree bolts holding it in place. Once removed the dash can be lifted forward. DO NOT forget to remove the 3 looms connected on the back. This is a job for someone with THIN fingers. The loom connectors have two clips, located very close to the cluster, and may be difficult to remove. Upon removal of the loom and the bolts, the cluster can be lifted out. Take the cluster to a table, place it on something soft, so as to not scratch the front glass part. To remove the glass, you will find tabs around the cluster, simply press down on these and apply pressure to separate the glass form the cluster, there are 7-8 in total. YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE WHOLE GLASS AND BEZZEL. http://www.cyberstork.com/cgi-bin/howto.cgi?sel=cut2 (Follow above link) Once removed, you will have the dials and cluster exposed. NOW, what I did is marked with a white board marker, a dot on the white dash part, the plastic, where the locations of the stock dials are. The best way to do this, is to rotate the dial with your finger, GENTLY, until it stops, this is the position in which the dial has to be reinstalled in. So what I did was to move them till they had reached the end of their travel, and put a dot on the plastic, with a whiteboard pen showing maximum deflection. ALSO NOTE THE HIGH OF THE DIAL FROM THE FACE OF THE CLUSTER. Once you have marked up where the dials are suppose to sit, remove the dials. EASIER SAID THEN DONE. I was petrified doing this. Best way to do so, is move the dial to its maximum deflection, and keep turning the dial slowly and GENTLY. This will spin the dial on the shaft, keep going backwards and forwards, while applying upwards force, and the dials will pop out. Once all the dials have been removed, remove the old faces. These are stuck on with tape. Get a small knife, like Stanley knife with a long blade, and gently put it under the face, between the plastic and the face. Wiggle the knife around; until you have separated the face from the dash. When the old faces are off, remove the needle stops as per instructions. The boost gauge has to be unscrewed, while the others simply come off. Once the old faces are removed, it is time to remove the speedo as per instructions supplied. Fallow these, along with the adjustment specified. This is the easies part of the job. Once the speedo is back in position, it is time to put the new faces in. Simply follow the instructions. This involves pealing of the sticky back, and gluing the faces in, ensuring all line up holes and markers are sitting in their correct positions. The boost gauge has a small black surround to reinstall as well, and you will need to undo the tacho light bar, you will see what I mean. Once the new faces are all reinstalled, it is time for the needles to go back. DO not install the stops for now. The needles need to go back in their original locations, the ones that were marked up before. ENSURE the hight of the needles is about the same as before and their locations are correct. DO NOT WORRY if these are not spot on, these can be fixed easily later. Once all the dials are in and connected, take the cluster to the car, without the front glass in place. BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO BREAK THE NEEDLES CARRYING THE dash around. Reconnect the dash to the loom. Turn the car ignition to ON and ensure all the light and needles work. The boost gauge should sit at 0 with the ignition ON. If not readjust the needle so that it does. Turn the car on, and see if the tacho is sitting correctly at the correct RPM. Check the water temp, fuel gauge and oil pressure gauge for correct operation. If any of these needles are not quite right, simply rotate them around till you meet some resistance, and give them a slight turn to correct the movement range, Go for a drive with a mate in another car, or go somewhere where there is one of them speed check things. This way you can check the speedo accuracy, if a little out, rotate and adjust the needed as per instructions. Once happy with all dial operations it’s time to finish. Remove the cluster again, and reinstall the stops. Reinstall the glass and bezel for the cluster and put everything back in revers order. I am sure I have missed something, but this is just a guide. It took me 2 hours, in VERY dark workshop, but that included putting new LEDs in the AC unit, and other switches. This is a great mod, and the kit is superb. It looks very good during the day and at night with blue LEDs it looks insane. Hope this may be of use to some people. I will post pics of new blue dash tonight.
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don't get me wrong, the car is great, it's called the WOG fastor, AKA me. i tend to always stuff something up.
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The ecu was freeeeee, i sold my old one, and the new one was $180, which was the same price i sold mine for. It works a charm. Yeah i think you are right, it's electrical, or a leaking injector. Who knows, i hate electrics.
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ahh welcome to the world of SKYLINES. sorry mate can't help, but i have a meriod off issues of my own, would you like some? LOL.
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Does This Power Reading Sound Right?
WogsRus replied to NicsR33's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
yeah people on the mainland talk about getting 600 km on the higway, that would get me to Launceston and Hobart 3 times. So eaven on the highway, my ecconomy is not to great, as i always have to drive through a town. LOL.