WogsRus

it has the stock fuel pressure reg and and aftermarket one. However the reg has beenon there for 6 months with no warries, it has always worked fine. I am not sure about the priming, but tyhe fuel priming sounds thesame as it has always done. HOWEVER, this morning the problem has seamed to iron itself out, no issues what so ever, so who knows, will see how the car goes. ONE more thing, i notice that my car vacume is about 1-2 mm HG lower then before. I have a SPARCO guage, and did a test, and the pressure line, when you put pressure in it, doesn't hold pressure. SO basically if i pressure rise it, it bleeds off to zero slowely. So i redid the lines, and still does it. I can't hear a hiss, but was wondering if they are suppose to do that? I don't think i have a leak, but need to check.

i'll check the voltages. Thanks Nope no black smoke

thanks meate, i will let you know, i put new plugs in and did some other thing, will see how that goes.

Ritch and retard, the car sees too much air flow and retards the timming and as a result adds extra fuel cousing boost droop

Also need to boor a series 2 computer overnight please.

anybody else?

nope not yet, the thing is it never use to do it, it just progresivly got worse. like something is not working correctly, but not sure what.

Well this is my problem http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry2950230 So i was wondering if i can borrow overnight a AFM to suit a S2 R33 and an ACC valve aswell. This way i can rule the two things out??? Rather urgent please.

I have Splitfire coils, new oil Fuchs 10-30 fully synthetic. Living in Tasmania means that there is no reputable workshops that work on skylines. DAM IT

read my sig, but i got 207rwKw at 12 psi and an estimated 217 rwKw at 14 psi

In relation ot previous post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...57857&st=20 Here it goes again. So basically, lately, it seems like the car in the morning simply does noo want to start, it coughs and so forht and carries on for 5 seconds, then fine, smooth as silk idle nothing. Almost like it only runs on 4 cylinders first and then all 6 come into line. It only does this if it has been standing overnight, but lately also during the day. Once hot or anything no issues. So so far i have done the following. -New plugs, All good. -Checked compression, still all 150psi eaven. -Checked for vacume leaks, but vacume appears to be as per before, still to do more searching. -AAC valve cleaned, and rechecked, and appears to work correctly. -Redline fuel injector cleaner, special stuff -Checked for head gasket, and all good. -Put a new ECU temp sensor in, no good -rechecked timming, and still as per before. -cleaned air filter -Fuel pressure and floww correct -Spark plugs all look even and nicely coloured. -Can was tuned 4 weeks ago, this started 2 weeks after. Still to check AFM and fuel filter, but filter was redone 5k ago. What i did was to reset the computer, drained all the fuel out of injectors, oped all the air bleed vents, and then restarted it the next morrning, and it still did it. If i turn off the ecu temp sensor, it is fine, if i disconnec the AFM it is fine. I have not checked Consults yet. What i need to know is, how do i check the Cold start Valve and the FAST IDLE VALVE? Apparantly the skyline has these. I am at a losssss??????? HELP.

I pulled teh PCV valve out of the rocker, and blew through it, i presume it needs a spring in it, but mine has so much slack in it, when you blow through it gentally, it doens't close at all, an dif you blow hard, it only blocks off 80%. The AAC valve is easy to check, so is teh cold start, and as long as it is not bugared, it's fine, it's a dog to get to otherwise.

a turbo requires load to boost, it is a pressure diferential device, hence if you are in neutral, and no load on the engine for the turbo to work agains, you will not create any boost.

humm lets see thinking thinking ORDER more beer thinking talk long distance to mates in Perth hummm buy some more shit i don't need for the car of eBay still thinking nope u?

??????????????

sounds like a worn bussh somehere. Go to pedders and get a $14 28 point safety check, that is the best way to pick up problems. After that you can do all the work yourself. There are a few bushes there, so maybe take the wheel off and have a good look arround. Maybe a ball joint on the lock out bar.

well the aac valve is in spec, works fine, tested. Cold start work aswell, no problems. I think it might be the plugs, getting a new set. The car did start a little easier this morning. So have to wait and see.

humm beeerrrrr, glad it's friday, going out for lunch with work, and plenty off bbeeeerrrrr

Ok so i cleaned the AAC valve, not that it was dirty, will see tomorrow. Did find one hose that was disconnected, it fell off. Also found that the PCV valve in the rocked cover does not always close properly, and if closed, still leaks a bit, so will need one of those, Other then that, did a quick test on the plennum, and no leaks so far. The search continues.

JayCar has bulbs which falsh for the rear lights, but it is ilegal.. All new cars in Europe, have these. What happens is as you apply the brake the light turns on and stays solid for 5 seconds, after that, it starts to blinkg to warnt the guy behind you. UNLESS you jab the brakes, then they go straight to blinking. All the mercs, bmws and allike have these. The Fordt GT40 and allike have it too.

will try the aircon thing tonight. Also going to try and get to the cold start Valve.

HAY i was going to ask how this actually works to. Does the base idle actually get stored in teh computer afterwards, or only works if teh computer remains connected? Anyone done this previously.

outside of rail, you mean remove them and get sonic cleaning? If so, then nope, not yet, but about 15k ago they were pulled out and found to be fine. But like i said, i drained the whole system of fuel, and then let sit over night. So there was no fuel in the injectors. Then after repriming the lines, it still did it. Stock ECU no differance, did the same. No i have not tried and AFM as yet, it has been cleaned, but still teh original item. How does the AFM contribute to this issue only when cold, and fine all the other times? Thanks guys keep them comming.

Mate living in Tas means anything to do with an import, will cost 10 times more then a Falcodore. It sux, hence why i do it all myself. Also being a mech engineer (who can't spell), i figure i can do it I don't trust any mechanics with any of my cars. Esspecially here in tas. Nissan here are usless, stuffed up so many cars, no one goes there for servicing. Consult comes back with nothing. Oh well any more ideas????

anyody have any ideas?