WogsRus

Well i have an SAFC II and the knock is great, and it works, if you know how it works. I have a Central 20 ecu and an SAFC II and got 207 rwKw at 12 psi with supporting mods. SAFC II also gives ignition timing modification, this occurs because as you take fuel out, you also take out some timming with it. If you get one it is best to get an adjustable fuel regulator. This will help in adjustment, as you can add fuel with the reg, but take some ignition out with the SAFC II.

what power did you archive in the end?

Forgot to add, comparison Old VS New

I got Maxxis MA-V1 with 255 on the rear, and at 207rwKw and a fat midrange, i get brakeout in first and second on gearchanges, slight corner in secon put the foot down, and sidways is the order of the day. Midrange is much more important.

I have to run mine 98 octane with the Central20 ECU, but made a hudge differance in my car.

Thanks CEF11E, yeah the power is great, the overall power is not the big thing, i love the big fat midrange, that is much better then top end power. The issue was that for some reason, the stock ecu was causing missfire when hitting R&R, eaven though it didn't look like R&R. The ECU is fine itself, just the way all teh electronics worked together made it miss. The new ECU is all good, and no issues with Splitfires and new plugs. So far so good. For now all happy, i am in the process of designing a new intake manifold, need to do more calcs for it. Also doing some design for a custom Intercooler water spray kit, i am hoping to see these later this year. The kits will incorporate a new widscreen washer bottle with a seperate cooler watter reservoir with a new pump, a new spray bar and so forth. Will keep people posted on these. ALSO posted the differance between the power figures, as you can see BIG differance.

Hi all. Just wanted to share my last tune with you guys. Managed to pull 207 rwKw at 12.2psi or so. All the mods are as per my sig. The car pulls like a freight train, and compared to the old tune i managed to pick up 60 rwKw through the rev range. Here are the graphs showing the peak power, plus the power at 4 different boost settings. Also atached is the old power run. What you guys think.

Here are the Dyno charts. One whows the 4 boost setting runs, and the main power run, show 206 rwKw but it did peak at 207.

i had to do thesame on my R33. What i did was to get a texter, and mark up the top of the fan to cut off. I did this by holding the texter fixed, and then rotating the blade. I did this at the top and then the from the side inside the engine bay. This gives you two lines and if you join them, you get a triangular shape, about 3*5cm. I then pulled the fan off, 4 bolts, and used a grinder with a very fibe cutting blade, and trimmed the blades. Cleaned them out with some sand paper, and hay presto. The fan is still very balanced, a little noisier, as the curved tipps stop cavitation. Hope that helps

HIHIHIHIHIH just went out for a quick drive, i love leaving 11's everywhere. I think i am going to have to invest in a tyre company. LOL. YYEEEHHHAAA.

actually, Stage 2=fix bike, Stage 3=Sell Bike, Stage 4=Buy House, Stage 5=Withdraw on house deposit and buy NEW bike. 2007 R1 will do and then go for a ride with GMB. LOL

So it was time to get a new tune with kutsie. Changes since the old setup, was a new cold air intake, a new ecu from Central 20, and a gizzmo EBC. So I will put the scans up tomorrow. First up Andrew ran the car with the setup as was, and running rich it pulled a good 180 rwKw or so. But as we began to take fuel out of the car with the SAFC II, pinging set in. So Andrew knocked back the timing and decreased the base fuel pressure, and the pinging went away. He proceeded to do so a few times and set up the boost controller for 4 different settings, and the cruise lambda settings as well. SO what was the outcome? HERE WE GO, 192 rwKw @ 9.3 psi, 195 @ 10.2psi, 199 @ 11.9 psi AND 207 rwKw @ 12.3 psi. I have actually seen the EBC jump to 14.2 psi while driving and I don’t know what power that was, but in first gear I got nothing but smoke out the tires. YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA 200 rwKw target achieved, thus stage one is complete. Once again thanks must go out to Andrew and the team at Pro Automotive, I can't state enough how professional the guys there are. Many thanks. So now onto stage two. New intake plenum in planning progress, new turbo, new injectors and a new ecu, not sure which, but will actually try what it will do with the current Central 20 ecu and a new turbo. For a relatively stock car, with all the mods being done by myself, I am chuffed. Not only did I reach my target, but I due to the new ECU I picked up close to 60 rwKw through the whole rev range. EDITED: It would pay if i read the dyno properly.

Yeah i meant, that bag for your buck, coppers are better, they don't degrade as fast when corectly chosen. Ie: heat range, gap ect. And cheep.

I secodn that. A set of copper performs great, and cheeper too. I am running BCPR6EYS or something, can't remember, but a great plug, gapped to 0.8mm and yeehhhaa, never had a problem

NOPE I THINK IT'S SEAZON 6 OR SOMETHING.

Welcome to Skylines Oz. The ECU is found on the pasanger side front kick panel. This is the panel directly below the glove box. You will see a 10mm plastic nut, undo this and pull the cover off, it takes a bit of fore to unclip it, be gentel through. (if you sit in the pasanger sit, and rotate the left foot towards the outside of the car, you will hit the panel behind which the ECU can be found.) The stock ecu runs 5psi below 4500rpm and 7psi above that, there is a hack to make the car run 7psi all the time. Look under the DIY section. In regards to modifications, get a full exhaust, a good boost controller and posibly a new fuel pump, as skyline ones a notourious for failing, posibly a new computer or a pigyback one, and 200rwKw or 270hp at the rear wheels is easy to get.

you are correct, but in order to get an accurate reading you need a wideband sensor, thes are $300, and some require a controller for the signal. There is a Oz mob that doa whole package for about $400, sensor, controller, display and so forth, can plug it thourgh your laptop and so forth, but a narowband sensor will gove you a simple indication if you are lean or ritch, that's about all.

Well i figured that was a bit muhc, but his plate was FG3476, and he was alone. LOL. Nah i just made that up, JACK ASSSSSSSSSS. Also spoted and white R33 an white R32 and a Black R32GTR all heading down the brooker last night.

Spotted a LIME GREEN R33 with Veliside Kit front on hedding down past town outside Cathedral at about 3:30pm Monday 29th jan

i didn't seal mine up as it should, all good so far, aslong as the wires do not cross, no bag. I HOPE

i AM IN THE PROCES OF BUIDLING A jAYCAR KIT, THAT USES A NEW CHIP TO (oops caps) show your AFR using a narow band sensor. works on an input voltage of 0 to 1V, which is fine. It does not show exact number say 12.4 to 1, but it simply indicates that you are a bit or a lot lean form stoick and so forth. It is not used for tuning, but more to ensure you are not lean or too ritch, a guide more or less. If you are buying a guage, make sure it has 0-1V inputs for narow band, or get a new wideband sensor $300 and use a 1-5V output. This is for a GTST, not sure what value the GTRs have for their nerow band sensors.

my gizzmo IBC had a busted controller, got it replaced, no probs now. Excellent controller for the money

I posted a reply in your post.......

Megasquirt does ACC air controll, also has about a gazilion extra inputs and outputs. I am 99% sure works with most stock sensors, it only requires to configure the sensor scale and threshold.

Mate are you talking to the right person or what. Where you located, i think i have just about worked everything there is to work out on a gizzmo, seing as mine gave me trouble too, i had a faulty unit. The way you have installed it is correct, all lines seam aok. Does the unit display any boost at all, ie is the turbo making boos and you are not redding it, if so, have you connected the boost line to the controller? If it is connected and still nothing, you most likely have a kink in the line, it only takes a small restricition. On my R33 with a FMIC and all other mods pulling over 200rwKw, on a stock turbo, my controller is set to 45 duty and 25 gain, One thing i found, is that the controller sux for creep, it simply can not compensate, but then again no controller does. So what i did was to set a duty to 40 and gain to 30, and then it overboost at first and then settels off. If you are in Hobart give me a Pm and i'll come see, or go and see KUTSI at Pro Automotive, top chap, knows these things inside out. Hope that helps, but from the pics the install is all good, except i am not sure which way the lines into the selenoid have to go.