WogsRus

I got a new Central 20 ecy and splitfires, that HELP A LOT, now it needs a decent retune, as it is runing rich, i think. LOL.

thanks mate, yeah if i ever get the missi of my back about spending tooo much money on teh car, i'll get it done

...when you take the car to the local shop, eaven though it's faster to walk there.

ohh sorry i forgot that running ritch is the other way arround. OOPPPSSS. yeah the guy i got mine from said it was ritch on boost.

i got mine given to me, and i have not had mine on the rolles as yet. they are all different, form what i know, but they can be remaped and DR drift has done one or two, some come coded so you can't other you can. I have an SAFC II so if i need to do anythign with the fuel maps i will. I also have a fuel pressure reg and i bumped the fuel pressure up a bit just to be sure. the AFRs you have are LOW wich is bad, so you might need to do something or your damage the car. Mine feels ok so far, but i will check it out soon i hope, all i know is it rocks, i mean the car is soo daaammm fast now.

... you never forget the oilchanges eaven if you don't write them down anywhere, but still manage to foget the weading aniversary. ... the word "ecconomy", is no longer a part of your dictionary. ... everytime you hear a strange noise, you wander how much it's going to cost to fix.

So i got a Central20 ECU, and it rocks, now that i fixed the timing. However, when i first put it in the base timing was 10 deg, not 15 as per teh old one i just took out, i had to move the CAS about 3 mm to get it back to 15 deg, and DAM what a differance, is this normal. The car is bonckers. I LOVE IT. ALSO, The car takes longer to warm up, so i presume it's running a bit ritch. The knock is as per old standard ecu so all good there, i don't think it's pinging, so far so good. IF the ecu was causeing some engine issues, how long before i can tell that it's wrong?

i know your a hoon. LOL, it's in the blood, especially having bikes like you and I. So far so good, i think the car might be a bit lean, so pumped up the fuel pressure a bit and see how it goes.

NO probs GMB, you can have it anytime, aslong as you don't try and do any standups in it. LOL. Well it's wasn't just the ecu, but the central 20 one rock. In first the thing just wheel spins, and second, yeeehhhhaaaaaaaa. Go to check the AFR's, but the guy who i got the ECU form has a dyno from KUTSIE, and kutsie said that it actually runs quite ritch

LOL, actually i do sometimes.

when sitting infront of the work computer your making BOV noises to yourself.

OK OK OK OK OK I FIXED IT. YYEEEHHHHAAAA Ok so here we go. Last night i took out all the plugs, i mean electrical contacts, all the ones i could fins in the engine bay. I sprayed WD40 into all of these and made sure all were nice and clean. Redid all these back up and tested connections with a multimeter. Next to the temperature ECU sensor, near the fan, there are some earth connections, allthough all good, i re-did these. Reset the TPS to read 0.5v when ignition is on, this was originaly 0.23v. This made a big differance. Pluged it all up, dialed in 18 deg of timing, reset the computer, went for a drive and gapped at 0.8 still got a miss, but all ok at 0.75mm. PROBLEM SOLVED. FCUCKING COMPUTERS This morning i still got a bit off a miss, when it was DAM cold, so i pluged up a different ecu, with the R&R removed, and no more miss AT ALL, so the R&R with the retardation was contributing to the problem. FINALY, i am happy, only problem now is to redo the tune with the new Central20 ECU and go form there. SO far though, i have no extra knock, and can't hear any pinging, so should be all good, she steps out sidways on the gas, i love it. LOL.

Dam mate, there are so many topics on this, FIRST, get a set of new copper plugs, i have an R33 and run BKR6EYA, the others don't work for shit in my car. Gap these to 0.8mm I have just finished with my car, and still having problems. It is also most likely a weak coil, and if you do a search on " how to cure missfire" sorry but that's my contribution. i just got back from the garage so time for bed.

yeah i got NEW spitfires, and still have problems, there has been many topics on this, do a search for "wasted spark"

oh ok. I can't wait till my design is finished. I am making my own, running it in cad and then Phoenix to get optimum design. JUST NEED MORE TIME

phew.

that plenum looks horrible, bery rough casts.

NO Problems, I totally forgot, and I figured it would be a good one to have. ALSO here is the ADR one; http://www.dotars.gov.au/roads/motor/design/adr_online.aspx Once again, each state and territory has a supplementary set of rules that need to be adhered to.

ok here you go. Pinging or Pre_Ignition Pre-ignition is a different phenomenon from detonation, explained above, and occurs when the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder (or even just entering the cylinder) ignites before the spark plug fires. Pre-ignition is caused by an ignition source other than the spark. Heat or hot spots can buildup in engine intake or cylinder components due to improper design, for example, spark plugs with heat range too hot for the conditions, or due to carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. Spark plugs with a high heat range will run hot enough to burn off deposits that lead to plug fouling in a worn engine, but the electrode of the plug itself can occasionally heat soak, and begin glowing hot enough to become an uncontrolled ignition source on its own. Bits of carbon that build up in a combustion chamber can also heat soak to the point where they also are glowing hot and ignite the air-fuel mixture before the proper time. Pre-ignition and "dieseling" or "run on" are the same phenomenon, except in the latter case the engine continues to run after the ignition is shut off with a hot spot as an ignition source. Pre-ignition might cause rough running due to the advanced and erratic effective igniton timing and may cause noise if it leads to detonation. It may also cause "rumble" which is fast and premature but not detonating combustion. This heat buildup can only be prevented by eliminating the overheating (through redesign or cleaning) or the compression effects (by reducing the load on the engine or temperature of intake air). As such, if pre-ignition is allowed to continue for any length of time, power output and fuel economy is reduced and engine damage may result. Pre-ignition may lead to detonation and detonation may lead to pre-ignition or either may exist separately. Knocking or DETONATION The fuel/air mixture is normally ignited slightly before the point of maximum compression to allow a small time for the flame-front of the burning fuel to expand throughout the mixture so that maximum pressure occurs at the optimum point. The flame-front moves at roughly 33.5 m/second (110 feet/second) during normal combustion. It is only when the remaining unburned mixture is heated and pressurized by the advancing flame front for a certain length of time that the detonation occurs. It is caused by an instantaneous ignition of the remaining fuel/air mixture in the form of an explosion. The cylinder pressure rises dramatically beyond its design limits and if allowed to persist detonation will damage or destroy engine parts.

they don't have a S2 one that i can try.

pinging is a lot worse then knocking, so that's propably why the car died. I have an SAFCII and it's whows up knock, i see as high as 30 sometimes when the car has been sitting in the sun olday and then i go to drive it, but after 5 minuts after i swich it off, it returns back to 10 or so. My car goes much better with the knock at 10 then it does at 0.

Hi All. I have had this link for so long and forgot about it. http://www.dotars.gov.au/transport/safety/...n/vsb_ncop.aspx For all those interested in car modificatios and so forth. I have had a dispute won because i could prove that cutting a hole in the inner guard does not affect the cars structual integriy. Still need to comply with all local state regulations, and the ADR's.

Come on somone has to have one i can use

Here you go some searches for you http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...amp;hl=missfire

Sorry but i have an SAFC II, so i can't change the dwell time. Yeah i am going to log all the values next week or so, ran out of money, got our power bill, so it's spend money time. Thanks all