WogsRus

OK more of an update. Last night i pulled teh CAS out and did all the check, voltages checked out OK, no issies, exactly as per spec sheet. I pulled all the coils out, and all tested thesame, no issie, same resistances ect. Checked the power to the coils, all gettting 12.4V, this was with the engine off, me crankinc the CAS manualy. Only thing is the trigger to the coils was 10.4V, not sure what this is suppose to be. All the plugs i took out looked exactly thesame, but they have only been in for 100km, and looked as if they had only been put in. I put the old BRK plugs in gapped to 0.6mm. Checked the injectors, no issiues there, all work as per manual, all resistance correct, no probs, all fire nice and even. So i put it all back together, and only had a quick drive, the missfire is propably gone, but the dip in the R&R is getting much bigger, going to remove the R32 actator as it cause tooo much boost at the VTC transition. When i had the plugs at 0.8mm there were no issues with R&R i guess because it was misfiring. Tomorrow i am going to get a new ECU with all the R&R removed and test that, maybe mione is funny. Also going to do a log of the car while driving to see what the results are, see if we can pick anything up. OK well that's me done. NO idea where to go from here. I wanted a bigger gap to get better ecconomy, now i get $350 out of 55 liters in town, and that sux. I was told that a biger gap will increase my ecconomy, but no worky so far. Is there anything else i can do to fix my ecconomy, i have a new O2 sensor, new temp sensor, tuned to correct AFR, new fuel lines, new filter and still crap fuel. HELP ME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

yeah i did that all coils test 1600 ohms, either way.

SO this is where i am up to now. MUST READ THIS FIRST http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...151261&st=0 I have checked a few things and going to do alot more checking arround. BUT i got new splitfire coils, from SLIDE, and put them in and the car still misfires. I have the stock ECU with an SAFC II tuned by kutz, and all seams ok, but i still have to run .6mm gap so that it doesn't missfire, now that sux. Can somone help me, where can i get my splitfires checked out to see if they are ok, and what else should i do?

Well i will pull mine out to have a look at the CAS, and se if there is any slack and so forth. BUT i have only a missfire at 4500-5500 rom and the a massive top end pull, so who knows. I will also check the timming belt to make sure that is ok. I am going to plug in the dataloger and go for a drive to see what is happening, and see if any problems can be dignosed form that.

I prefer to tinker, as it cost less too. LOL. i am basically gona go over everysensor and check all of them and see, but i was told that the CAS should not make any differance. BUT i will get another to see allong with another AFM

Well my old ones were all siliconed up to and still missfired, now i know these were definatly stuffed, as the spark was so hard to see and shit, the splitfires have a nice BRIGHT FAT WHITE spark, but still missfire. I am going to take a coil to get tested to see if the output is ok, and if they say that the coils are good and should not missifre, then there is another problem. I so badly want this car to be 10/10, but at the moment i am very unhappy. OHHH WELLL

WELL GUESS WHAT, the missifre is back, i am begingin to think it might be something to do with R&R, but it has never doen this before. I am going to borrow a mates ecu and see if it makes any differance, but the missfire is like a rev limiter, not a flat spot like it should be. Gam currently is 0.7mm, going to go down to 0.6mm and see what happens. As to my tuner, well i have spent FAR to much money so i don't have anything left, got to do as much as possibly myself. This sux, i mean i broght the dam things as they are suppose to be better then stock, yeah well not working yet. Hay cubes, do you have splitfires, can you test the resistance accross the terminals as per this post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=151477 Eaven if you have stock ones, can you do a test to see. Mine are really high like 1600 ohms, should be very low, like 0.9 ohms. DAM IT ALL, i'm about to sell it i think, have had enough. DAM IMPORTS.

BTW .88 Lamda is 12.4:1 AFR

Yess i have an SAFC II, sorry the lamda form the dyno is in lamda, not AFR, but 0.8 means 12 or so, it's a bit hard to read of the graph, i can go back and get one with AFR, but it's basically the same thing, LAMDBA is 14.1AFR*Lambda. It was tuned properly The car was tuned on a dyno, but is going to go back to get a tidyup, but i want to sorght out the issues with spark first. I am a bit worried as i can't seam to find it. DAM IT.

BUMPYDYBUMP

I have it in lamda so it was 0.8 accross the board form 2000rpm, this was before the new coils and the CAI. So who knows. I had a bit of a play with the fuel maps, and didn't do much differance, still same.

HI Anyone with a S2 R33 and splitfires, WITH A MULTIMETER, got to their splitfire coils and do a resistance reading between the ground, center plug and the LH one when looking at the coil, for the coil. ALSO tell me what the mulitmeter was set at? i have 20, 200, 2000, 20k, 200k, and 2000k ohms. I tested mine and i get 1600ohms, when the mulitmeter is set to 2000ohm reading. The AUTO electritian told me it has to be 0.9 ohms, and that is near imposible. This is to do with my other thread, i can't seam to fix my car. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=151261

OK SO MORE OF AN UPDATE. Got a new set of plugs the BPR6ES, as they had no BPR6E. Gapped down to 0.7mm, and put a bit more timming into it. So went for a drive, and it seams ok, will need to test some more. ONLY thing is now, the flat spot has come back at 4500-5500, right where R&R is, so i guess it is now getting some R&R. IT did not do this with plugs at 0.8mm SO i went an auto electrician, and he told me that the CAS woudl not cause any problems. All the plugs i took out looked exactly thesame, none were leaner, spot on, so i recon it's not the injectors. I checked the ground, and it is spot on, to the engine and to the coils, the loom all checks out ok. Another posability is that the ECU is bugared or something, so who knows. I am getting very dishartend here, i have spent money on all the good gear, and still shit, what am i to do. Not only that but fuel economy sux 350km out of 50 liters in town, and not mush better on the Highway. The car has been tuned, and checked over and all come back as OK, corrected AFR and so forth. ONE MORE THING, CAN SOMONE WITH A MULTIMETER, got to their splitfire coils and do a resistance reading between the ground, center plug and the LH one when looking at the coil. I tested mine and i get 1600ohms, when teh mulitmeter is set to 2000ohm reading. The AUTO electritian told me it has to be 0.9 ohms, and that is near imposible. I am at a lost.

Yeah did a quick test, car comes back with no errors at all. DAM IT.

well yeah never hurts to get new plugs. I have them gapped to 0.8mm now, and allthough MUCH better, missfire not all gone, so gona try anything sugested.

thanks budy, much appriciated. I have gone through the maintnace manual and am going to perform all the test to see what i come up with, susspition is down to CAS or injector, or bad earth. LOL, there is a lot of OR's

so what are all the EYA things for, i know 6 is heat range and so forth, but the rest. DO you think it is benificial to get the BCPR6E or stick with mine and go down to 0.7mm gap How can i gignose a faulty CAS? How do i dignose if an injector is faulty? Other then that, the car is sooo much better, pulls nice, smooth idle, me like.

Will check it out, but i don't think there is anythign in there to ark out agains. What can i do to see if it is not an injector fault as per this post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=129897&hl= Also is there anyway i can tell if it is just an individual coil doing it. The thing is if it is an injector or something, would gapping the plugs down fix this?

well you think that is problems, READ THIS, got new splitfires and no differance, must be something else, BUT WHAT? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=151261

OK So first thing I read last night teh plug thing, and i was wondering what the differance is betweens i am running and the BCPR6E, i have also heard of BCPR6ES. I know NGK use to have a plug referance that told you what all the letter stood for, anyone have one? According to the NGK website the BKR6EYA are a direct replacemtn for iridiums that the car is suppose to have.??????? So i will try some of these plugs and see how it goes? Injectors and clean, as best as i can tell, i checked all of trhem, flow almost all thesame, but i might try some good injector clener, what do you recomend? I will do a log of the Voltages on teh way home, but as far as i know the alternator is ok, it never runs flat, voltage is 14.2 running, new battery, all seams ok, but will check it, Thanks. The motor has not been out of the car, but i am not sure if all the earth are connected, as i don't know wher they all should be, will do some research. In regards to R&R, no issues there, i can pull 13 psi before anythign flattens out, it's like a revlimmiter, not a cut out as such. Going to do some more researching today. Was told that a faulty CAS will do this aswell, can somone confirm and tell me what to look out for? Do the R33 need a different spark plug???? DAM IT??? Funny thing is the problme was not there when car was STOCk it gradualy got worse the more mods i put onto the car. HUMMM...

FORGOT TO ASK< what plugs SHOULD i be using. I am using the BKR6EYA, is that OK??????

Fuel filter is near new, yeah gona check all the conections and so forth. Also might spray some WD40 on all conectors, it helps.

B U M P

OK so gapped to 0.8mm, still get a slight miss under 3 full load, bugga. I guess there must be something else wrong, not sure what though. Any ideas. If my engine was getting crappy earth, would that cause problems? ALSO installed an R32 wastgate actuator, and DAm, doe the car pull much better now. HOWEVER also noticed with the splitfires, the car idles better, more pull through the midrange (this was before the actuator), and easier starts. SO all i need to do now i figure out why it might still be missfiring. I read somwhere that if the CAS is playing up that might cause some issues.

just doing some more changes, back soon