WogsRus

Well series two with ignitor, did check with MM, and primary is 1.4k ohms, wich is standard for series two, series ones are like .6k ohms. AFM is clean did that, just finishing the plugs and see how it goes. BTW i am on my lappy next to the car while working so hence the responces on the run.

I just put in brand spanking Splitfire coils to replace the old coils that only ran at 0.55mm, and new plugs

Ok plugs are BKR6EYA gapped at 0.8mm

Sorry should have explained. When i got the car stock it was ok, but soon after i saw some cracks in the coils so i silliconed them up and they ran for a bit and then got worse. SO i gapped the plugs down till they worked wich was 0.55mm. I am running the copper plugs that everyone gets on here, the BPRS6 things, NGK, you know the ones. My fuel ecconomy started to suffer as soon as the coild started to fail, so i am trying to fix this by trying biger and better coils with bigger gap.

It's a series 2 with no ignitor. In regards to bigger problems, what else can it be, could the problem be a CAS sensor or something else. I am going to regap to 0.8 but this sux, hopefully i can sorgth it out. I have no errors on the computer, it has been tuned, new pump and so forth, the car did not miss at 0.55 gap, but the coils were shot, i mean i could hardly see the spark.

New ish, done about 50kms

HI All so i got my new splitfires today, put them in, ran 1.0mm gap, and getting missfire at the usual rpm 4500-6000. Only running 10psi of boost, had no problems wiht old coils at 0.55-0.6mm at the same boost, SO WHAT THE HELL. The reason i got these is to stop the missfire and increase my gap to increas mid range pull and fuel ecconomy, so gapping down is a bit of a waste of my money. Is it possible that the earth might be a bit crap or something? CAN somone advise me ASAP please

Check out Aussie Car Complance. I got my car from them. http://www.aussiecarcompliance.com.au/cars4sale.htm If you do not wish to have warranty and 12 months region, take $1000 off. so that means there are a few there to look at. EXCEPT THE wine red R33 S1.5, that is sold, to me.

Hay budy, my pearents are coming down on the weeknd, so i am out. Sorry.

I got one form here not long ago for $50.

HI all Well i need to spray my body kit. Front bar, skirts rear, pods and rear bar, possibly the bonet to get rid of stone chips. Thay are on the car at the moment and just need to be freshened up, as they have scratches ect. I have done plenty of wokr myself with paint and bodyworks, but don't have the time or the facilities to do it hear in Hobart, all my gear in in Lton. I have the paint, and the pannels will be prepped for painting, I just need somone who has a bodywork or does back yard sprayjobs to paint it for me, i eaven have a compressor and the gun to spray it, just no where to do it. Can somone recomend somone cheep, or somone can do it for me for a fee ofcourse?

You mean MAXXIS MAZ-1 tyres. I have both the MAZ-1 and MAV-1 and i must admit they are a great tyre. I have the Z on the 200fwkw Magna, and they lasted propably 1.5 years with rotations, otherwise the front would be gone i 3 months. LOADS of grip in thw wet and dry, excellent value for money, and they won 2nd best sports tyre in a wheels magazine test. BUT they are soft The V's are on the Skyline as they are a harder compound so not so much wear, i would say propably %15 worse then the Z but still an excellent tyre. The Z's are a bit more noisy on the road too.

Well ok so i'll put a pickle in the mix. I got all the parts myself and did the installs myself so here it goes. Walbow Gss342 pump $195 (genuine pump too, not a coppy) FMIC $399 Just Jap one (fitted well no modifications can't complain) HKS Pod allready in the car, i made a CAI for it Clutch Excedy HD $389 from Slide (mine died) Splitfires, had to get my coils DIED big time $589 from Slide SAFC II $399 new from Ebay GIZZMO EBC $369 form Abarn Exhaust was $199 for full dump, free HIGH flow cat, $160 to get the rest made up, and the muffler was free. Full Tune spent six hours on it $200 Result was 187rwKw at 10.2psi, some more tuning and managed to get 201rwKws at 12.3psi. BUT my midrange is down due to not having a PFC. so if i didn't have to get coils and clutch, i think a 2K budget i guess the results are all good.

Hay Endorean, all i did was to get some 6mm MDF and cut to fit the ashtray hole. I then cut out the hole for the controler and mounted it all up. I painted the thing black. Once the paint was dry i glued on some black plastick on the front of the cover. The plastic came form one of them black folders you use at school, the one with pockets in it. LOOKKSSSS factory. I then put some double sided tape in the ashtray hole lip and stuck it in. Will take pics and post them up.

Hay ENDOREAN, that is exactly wher mine is, The boost guage is in teh old cigaret lighter hole, with the new cigaret lighter being in the glov box, so i can still use the power socket. Only thing is i had to spin my guage arround so that the 10 psi mark is at the top, as i couldn't see it properly from the driver side. I made up an insert wher the ashtray use to be, and teh controller is mounted in that. Looks smick.

wicked, i didn't know there was alocal tasy crew who sold all this gear. Where is Beechys?

Could be a cv, but most likely the Diff. Mine has a clunck after fitting the new HD clutch, mainly as the clutch is so hard and grips so well that it doesn't prelode the drive line before disengaging, it just disengages.

Not sure if Ricky my mate is doing rally of tas, but he recently compleated the mountaind challange 4 day even, came 1st in a couple of categories and then some seconds and some 6th places after the car failed to finish a stage. I have drivven with some hard core drivers, but my mate, i tell you what, you fell like your about to die and then, bang all good again. He definatly drives 11/10 evertime. the quote "If you want to explore the limits, sometimes you have to be prepared to go over them" Is somethign he came up with. LOL. and certainly suits him down to a T.

Yeah that;s the one the rookie rallye, he is hoping to win his devition so that next year he can enter the real targa.

i didn't say that wastgates fluttered, i wanted to ask, if there is anyway a wastgate would make any funny noises as that flutter. That's all.

thanks guys, much appriciated.

As another question, how do you know if the AFM is really bugared, if i do the test on it, all come good, but sometimes i swear to go it runs like shit.

My Mate is goign in the Junior Targa, it's for beginers, it's 3 days or something. He is eneting an 64 Hilman hunter that runs 10 second quaters, on a stock extrnaly looking angine. At the moment we are compleatly redoing teh head, bigger ports, new oversized valves, sleved and remachine the block to accept VG30 pistons, got some ex nascar chev rods to fit, all valvetrain has been roalised, running fuel injection, pulled 250Hp out of 1998cc

ohh i see so if i just take of the hose to it, then the car will leak boost as the BOV has no way of being held shut, makes sence, learn something new everytime. My question is, there are so many cars running arround with an BOV but still have flutter, can this be from an external gate, or the BOV being set to tight? I have read many posts about the flutter, and was wondering, on the weekend was washing Jumbarie 16 and many of their drag cars had flutter, i presume that flutter was bad, but many people have that flutter sound.

What's the spark gap set to. 0.8mm is what most people need to run. see if that helps. But 1) next size ar 440cc from memory 2) Splitfires are $589 delivered throug Sliding Performance 3) Dr Drift remap is about $400 i think.