WogsRus

yeah i'm a slow drinker. LOL. Well i did also do some work, or didn't you notice. LOL.

well it's in the sun the whole day.

Like i said most of the materials for me were of cuts, and there is plenty more to get. The only problem is that each box is really individual, if you want to do it corecctly. I made sure that there was no leaks or anything, the box fitted well. Depending on each car's setup, the pod hole may be in a different spot and so forth. I am happy to farward on the design templates as were give to me, i can't take credit for those. I simply improved the design a little, and made it more functional. BUT i suppose if you had to get materials yourself it would range from $50 if you get some scraps and stuff or about $100 if you did it all brand new, but for $100 worth of materials you can get 5 boxes cut.

yep AL is correct. basicaly, get the tractive torque, divide by 4.11 and multiply by 1.15 to give 15% tyre flex. My managed 1409nM tractive torque, so that is about 360nM of torque.

nah not to dificult at all, veary easy material to work with.

well high flow can be possible. Anyway, nice gains.

well she definatly is not a stock turbo, especialy on an R33. I have just managed to squize 200rwkw out of mine at 10psi with all the mods and SAFC II. that is at 10psi, i guess top would be about 210rwks if all goes well at 12 psi. what boost are you running. You sure those figures are at the wheels. not at the crank?

stamp duty is 3% of final buying price, so $10000=$300 stamp duty.

ohh it's never got above 32 i think while driving. Normaly no more the 15 on a hot day, and 5 on a cool day.

yeah the SAFC II does too, i found out when my cas stuffed up, cos i forgot to do up the bolts. The tune is all good, the tuner had his kncok sensor put on and it showed no knocking or detonation or anything funny. It just seams strange that if the car has been in the sun and then i turn it on, bang 30 straigh away, within a secon, then drive for 5 monuts, the car still pulls thesame, no differance, and turn off and hay 5. WFT i mean it's weird.

forgot to mention as well, the SAFC II has a knock reading base line thing, so for example i can set the lowest knock at idle as per the manual, which means that i can reset the knock at the high mark and it will show me zero knock in the monitor screen.

ok BUT, the question remains, i turn the car on, the knock is 30 straight away, drive 5 minuts, turn off, and knock now sits at 5. THIS only happens IF THE Car has been outside in heat all day. OTHERWISE the knock is never above 15 while driving.

allright read the knock part of teh faq, but it states nothing as to what levels are acceptable, as long as no more then 50. What i am interested in is that if i turn the car off and then back on again, the knock reading disapears down to 5 or so. Normally the knock on the SAFC II, shows under 5 if it's cool outside and under 15 if it's HOT outside. Is that normal.

Sorry forgot to mention that the reading are form an SAFC II i don't have a PFC but i will read the FAQ anyway.

Ok So if my car has been sitting in the sun for a while, and i go to start it, the knock will sit at about 20-30. I can drive the car no probs feels much thesame as if the knock was at 10. Now if i turn the carr off after say 5 minuts of driving, and turn it straight back on again, the knock goes back to say 5 and slowly comes up to 10. Now i have checked the wirying, definatly got the right wire. Have performed a check on all sensors, and all good, no errors in the ECU. SO is this common? Or is there something wrong?

if you can show us a better pic, showing the front i can tell you.

mine is paper one that has been luminated and then placed where it shold be, then coverd over the top.

hymm i figured all R3X turbos are Ball Bearing. AFAIK. But i can be wrong. The R34 turbo is much better, better trim wheels and so forth. YOU gona sell the housing to me? LOL.

cool, here they call it THERMOFOAM

well i got mine from the local FOAM LAND supplier.

the plugs will only break down under load, my coils were REALY BAD, and i mean bad. Most people experiance some sourght of brake down in spark eventually.

well not actally have heard the car, if the pug gap is to big, ie the stock 1.1mm and the coild are a bit week, the denser air causes the coil to work harder and you get a brake down of spark. This happend to me, i had to go all the way down to 0.6mm just to idle, and .55mm to run. The problem is you can't regam platnums to easily, or arn't suppose to. go out and buy a copper set, the shop will know which ones, and buy the ones that are gapped to 0.8mm. Put these in and see how it goes. It is most propably the spar. If it is hitting R&R, which i unliky, if you are running stock boost, then you may need an SAFC II air flow computer or a full computer to fix it. The ecu detect that there is to much air comming into the engine, and retards the ignitions and hence limits the boost. Hope that helps

what boost are you running, it might be hitting boost cut. or the spark plug gap is to big. Need some more details

i went to my local supplier, and got some, but unless your in tassie, i recon no go. LOL. unless you want to pay for shipping. LOL.

hay mate, if you i PM you a car pic, how much to get one done. This is sooo cool.