WogsRus

yeah its a thermal foam, has high density foam on the inside and silver foil on the outside, has massive R values so heat transfer is minimal Refer to my post here. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=149816 Esentialy you can get it at any foam supplier, can't remember the exact name, they come with glued backing if you want, i just glued mine on myself. It made another 6 degC differance to the car. mainly because as the car sits in trafic the air flow into the box is minimal, so it starts to heat up fast.

Well so i was sitting on the net, going over all the CAI designs, ones you can buy and so forth. I remebered that a member of the forum had some templates. SO got those and went to work. My dad and I started in the morning on boxing day, figured we would take it easy, well 4 hours later, and a six pack of beer, and HAY PRESTO, here is the finished result. The box case is made out of a product called ALUCOBOND, it's a 1mm ally, with 3mm PVC, and 1 mm ally again. You can buy a thicker ones if required. The inside is lined wiht a THERMOFOAM, it's a 15mm thinck high density foam with silver foil, excellent R values, to miniminse heat transfer. I noticed a 6deg C after introducing the foam. The air is introduced through a 2'5" pipe from the front of the bar and blows straigh into the box. SO far the results are great, the car is a lot more constant, if you stand in trafic, the heat lag is gone. The air is nice and cool, and the car is a lot more responsive. Fuel ecconomy is up, and the pod noise is reduced to a more acceptable level. Only down side, on a cold morning, the dam thing hits R&R so dam quick, as the air is so dense, and the box together with the FMIC, really increase the air flow, hence R&R. I have the templates available, if people are interested, but i modified mine as i went allong, i found that each car is different. I have done this to my friends R33 4door, with an APEXI filter, and we had to extend the main box body and make a different cover top. I did mine by making the side first and then making up a pattern to fit for the top cover. The side of the box is held in place by two brackets riveted to the side of the box, and bolted to the car using the stock airbox mounting holes. The top is slid inot place under the front panel, and then bolted through the top, into some brass L-brackets. I then finished the alluminium by brushing it with fine still wool. I did have it polished, but it was VERY hard to keep semi clean. Total cost, ALUCABOND, free i got offcuts, Thermofoam $36 per meter, and all the other bits and peices i already had, so that is DAM Cheep. Tell us what you think.

or take of the stock turbine housing and port the gate, no biggie, takes bugga all time, just ensure there is a min of 1mm overlap to ensure good sealing.

Hi all. i know this is not the buy section, but i was wondering if anyone has an R32 10PSI wastgate actuator i can borrow or buy, to see if i can cure some of my boost creep issues? Basically if you go over some old post, i asked how to cure it, and i was told an adjustable actuator, or one set to 10 psi from an r32 will help. I have instruction on how to make an adjustable one, is that how the real HKS items work? As per the schematic.

I wonder then if these can be changed and stored if you edit them using Nissan Datascan or something simmilar. Well i am goign to chuck it on the dyno andyway and see what happens. if it's crap i won't take it, if it's good, we see what we can achive.

yeah maybe a coumple of mm of the high mark. The problem is in tassie most driveways are as steep as mountains, so that makes it hard.

thats some great info there JazzaR33. I think it would be good if somone could do some accurate test.

flow testing is $25 per injectorm that includes a service and clean, or $10 for flow test. The holes are impinging flow to allow for better flow. BUT i presume one could just grind the top nice and flat to look profetional.

well seing as they only weigh 80 kg more, i think the extra power more then makes up for it. boats, yeah right.

thats one of those of the net. Yeah just need to line it with some thermo foam 15mm think, otherwise all it does is stop SOME of teh hot air.

Hay guys, Talked to my mate at Automotive service solution in Tas, they do all the fuel injectors here, use to be petrojet. Anyway, he said that it has been done for ages, and it does work. only thing is that they can not ballance the injectors properly to flow thesame if they are out, as the pintle can't be changed. Other then that he has seen people using these for ages, and with no ill effects, other then some crappy fuel ecconomy of not tuned properly. SO there you go. THIS DOES WORK. Now he did not state officialy on the record that he recomends this being done, but i did get a wink to say it was ok.

there is a guy in Launceston that does it an din Devenport, i had my Magna ones fixed, cost $120, which sucked cos a new mag was only $200. Go to BJ moonah and ask for Jason, he'll sorght you out.

many sorry to see you out, so close yet so far hay. Bugga, well if you need some bits sold i recon i can manage to buy some but other then that. Good luck with the sale.

YEah DR Drift is in tas soon, i'll get it on the dyno then.

yeah got it in to get checked so see how it goes.

humm well not really, the ecu is remaped and has R&R removed and speed cut removed, and looks like the chip can be removed and reprogrames. I am mearly getting it to remove the R&R, as i am hitting it now. Form what i have seen the ecu is for an r33 with light mods. But i will check somehow.

humm yeah i think a quick test is in order. DAM IT.

ELO Well ok so the story goes, a guy is looking at buying my series 2 ecu. For the money i get for that i can get a CENTRAL 20 ECU, for my car. Now i have done pleanty of searches, and only found a few pages, all not very conclusive. So the thing is, we put it into the car, and it ran fine, no detonation, or anything that we could hear, test drove fine. This was with the SAFC II set to zero correction. I have been told that these fuel up at high rmp, so with the SAFC II, we should be able to squize out all we can. The reason i am thinking of upgrading the ecu, is that the R&R is starting to shit me a bit, and really want to runner higher boost settings. the stock ecu pulled 187 rwKw at 10.2 psi, but i want to try about 13 or so and run 12 all the time. Now i was going to dyno the CENTRAL 20 ECU first and then do the swap, but the guy wants it now. So i was wondering if anyone has had any experiance with these chips, and weather it is a good swap to do? Anything, any advice at all, i don't care. Need some help. Chip seams to be same as this. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=133858&hl

so does anyone have one as yet?

i know this is a bit left side, but an uncomplied Stagie RS 260. LOL now that i would like to see

Yeah i am about to talk to a mate that does nothing but fuel injectors and see what is said. Will post back soon.

W T F are you on about. I was mearly giving the man some advice, your the one that starter whoring. AND IT's A SERIES 1.5, come on.

I'll post up some pics tonight for you. The box i have made is sealed, well preatty much. So how does the stock box appear to give much better midrange torque? I did the enclosure as the car already came with the pod and so forth.

mofo, thta's not fair, just spent 1 k on parts, and now all of a sudden there are all thes ePFC for sale, dam you, dam you all. Good Luck with the sale.

THATS MR MACIEK TO YOU. LOL. i didn't know yours was back on the road. SO yeah lets go. you puch i drive. LOL. Have you made any progress yet?