WogsRus

also the oils pressure is all good, ail is HIGH, and correct oil used.

Hi all got a quick question. My drive is fairly steep, and when parked over night, and i got to start the car, the tappets tap for possibly 10-20 seconds if that. Possibly happens 1 out of 30 starts. Now this doesn't always happen, and appears to be radom, sometimes it does other times not at all. So does this couse s hit load of damage, i am goign to get some lifter free treatment and hcange my oil, to see if it helps. I know it has to do with the oil pickup ect ect, i juts wanted to ask, if it is going to couse damage?

and its a bieatch to remove. lol

here you go, and don't say i don't do nothen fo ya. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...;hl=intercooler

All good mate. I finshed mine last nigt at 12 midnight, had to do the box twice, the input shaft would not line up, very fidly, BUT dam does it bite or what. I got an Exceedy clutch and it is awsom. Love it, a bit digital at the moment, on off, but need to get use to it. LOL LOVE IT. Now for some spitfires.

or you could do this

What i am saying is that the gate is the problem, but some solutions are to simply put an adjustable actuator on it, but it is a bandaid solution, it works, but if you want lower boost setting, like for my wife, it's a no go. But hay, eash to their own.

Yeah I skimmed the surface, all good, it was actually preatty good, just had some glazed marks on it. Will see how it goes today, the clutch arrived at 4:50pm, just in the nick of time. I am about to go to my mates place to get it put in, so have car back for Xmass. YYEEEHHHAAA. My mate has all the things i need in his workshop. The flywheel is ok, you should see the old plate, it looks like something chewed it up and spat it out. LOL.

I got it all off, took 1.5 hours, piss of piss, now all i need is a clutch, SUPPOSE to be here today, still not turned up. F U C K aus post. Blody express post my ass, next day, delivery, phew.

hay so far i have 187 rwks and i am getting high to low 13 sec passes, give me time. I am mearly stating what i know

i am mearly ready off the chart that was provided by the tuner form the car, i know the tuner, and the car had an r34 turbo on an 94 series r33 det motor. The motor was stock, FMIC etc etc, but that's what happended, I am yet to test it on my car, but i will let you know. Just what i know, i know that seams high, but that is what it did. It certainly made a big differance in my car when i had it in there for a test.

What i did was to push the slave cylinder in and lock it off in the closed possition. There was no air in there, but i can always bleed the system later. I couldn't get the first set of bolts undone, so i took the whole shaft out. LOL. But yeah, if you can move them do that.

Ok so to remove the box took 1.5 hours, and that was a lot of stuffing about, but there was two of us. So basically this is what need to be done. 1) Drain gearbox oil, no matter what they say, it's ten times easier to do so. 2) Remove gearstick, first the surround, then the rubber boost. Get in under the car, and pull off the dust boost from the gearbox to expose the gearlever. Back inside the car, remove the circlip, and the lever comes out. 3) Back under the car, undo the following. The tail shaft from the diff side, exhaust mounting from the gearbox, the tail shaft centre bearing, the tail shaft keeper bracket, the one that stops the shaft falling if it fails or comes undone. At this stage the tail shaft can be removed. Ensure you do not get any crap in the box or on the end of the spline shaft, I taped all mine up to ensure no dust will get in. Also remove the slave cylinder, and ensure you tape it up so that it cannot expand and fall out. 4) Undo the rear support cross memeber for the gearbox. Ensure that the gearbox is supported with a stand or something equivalent. Once the cross member has been removed, slowly lower the box down, this will tilt the engine and the gearbox together on the engine mounts. Once tilted, the box will sit there. At this stage you can unclip 3 connectors to the box, neutral switch, spedo, and reverse switch. 5) Begin by undoing the starter motor, with the motor tilted, it is much easier to get the top starter motor bolt from below the car. 6) Begin removing the bolts from the bell housing, start with the lower ones, do not remove the bolts just undo all of them to ensure they are loose. The two top bolt of the bell housing require a 1meter long extension to allow for access from the back of the box. This is the hardest part, not much space, but a nice long extension makes this easy. 7) ENSURE the gearbox has some support below it, as you are about to begin getting it out. I had two planks of wood across the pit, one at the front and one behind. 8) Place a piece of wood between the front sway bar and the oil sump; this will stop the motor form rotating once the gearbox is removed. 9) Begin removing all the bolts that connect the bell housing and engine. 10) Once removed, the gearbox will sit there on the support you have, but will be separated from the engine. At this stage it is best to have 3 people present. One person under the bell housing, one on the rear of the gearbox, and one to pull out the supports. 11) Get under the box and get all the people in position as above. Take up the weight of the box, so that it can be moved back. Remove the supports. Once the supports are moved and the gearbox pulled back, it needs to be rotated a bit, and pop off she comes. 12) Once the box is out you can see the clutch, undo the 9 bolts and the clutch plate will come out. NOW if your clutch is like mine. MACHINE THE FLYWHEEL, mine was so damaged after the 90 km I drove with a slipping clutch, it's not funny. This is a pain in the ass, as most workshops closed for Xmass, luckily I have contact. To remove the flywheel, there are 6 bolts I think. Undo these and the flywheel will come off. There is a Spigot bush in there so be careful. 13) To put back together simply reverse and go form there and don’t forget to refill the gearbox oil. Now this is not a full technical write-up, and I should have taken pics, but we were pressed for time. But for all those who need to do this, I encourage you to do so. I have done many FWD clutches, and a RWD clutch is soooooo much easier, just takes time and plenty off skin off the knuckles. LOL.

I have an Central 20 ECU on mine, well about to, i have tested it, made hudge differance ofer stock, plus 14psi was no problem. My mate had it on his RB25DET powered VL and it made 230rwKws with same mods as mine with sheets to prove it.

How much for the install?

THAT Is one heavy clutch, the standard one is 650kg force, the heavy duty one is 850kg, superheavy is 1025kg and so forth, THAT is hard. DAMMMMM well mine cost me $340 deliverd to my door, that is with the discount, normally almost $400. Yeah well i have been stuffen arround on cars all the time. And since i have done about 5 front wheel drives now, this one is EASY, just time consuming.

How much did the Jim Bery one cost and what sorght of clutch is it? I am putting mine in myself with my mate, a piss of piss, just takes time

got one from Aaron form Slide Performance. EXEDY clutches are fitted with premium organic friction materials and are resistant to slippage and burst. Increased clamp loads give the necessary capacity to handle modified engines. This is the preferred clutch for street and light horsepower track use. The drivability will be similar to a regular clutch, however drivers may experience increased pedal effort, slight shudder and increased cabin noise due to the performance characteristics of the clutch. All Exedy clutch discs have high capacity sprung centre dampers to reduce the drivetrain shock and impact. Exedy H/D Organic kit incl: * Exedy H/D Organic clutch plate * RPM Brass Button Pressure plate * New Bearings Kit can handle 240rwkw Was going to go for something heavier, but my wife has to drive the car too, so it needs to be user friendly.

I'm doingit over a pit. my mate has a car it so we will be doing it there. I think it will be easier to remove the oil so we can do what we want with the gearbox and so forth.

Well done benny, glad to hear you got it sorghted. Hows the car after the ride hight change? My clutch will be here on thursday as Air Freight forgot to pick it up. So it's gona be a late night on thursday, as i won't start work on it till late after work. Ohh well. It's gona be a biths to get use to a super heavy duty clutch. LOL. Hopefully the car will be drivable before Xmass.

Yeah i know what needs to come off, been throght the forums and the manual, just needed to see what the best way was to do it, as i am pressed for time tomorrow.

Well the easies thing is to port the standard gate. Here is a pic of a normal gate, now form that you can remove some 4mm down the lower side and 2mm on the upper side, not only that, but port the inlet to the gate aswell, to allow for ease of gas entry. ALSO Slide sugested the following. Hey mate This is a very common problem and most people tend to just port out the wastegate hole. This is not necessary and in most cases can be fixed by a good electronic boost controller. Gizmo in my experience with tuning hasnt been all that great running extra boost on standard turbo's and i have always had overboosting problems. Wastegate creep can usually be solved by a stronger spring in the actuator so that you are not relying on air so much to do mechanical work. Mpst people go for the HKS Adjustable actuator and it is a straight bolt on for the T3 RB25 turbo. As is is adjustable it in most cases will be more reliable to set the boost and hold it with just that then with a cheap electronic boost controller or boost tee. Once you remove the standard exhaust system you decrease back pressure. The R34 housing will fit directly onto most R33 turbo's. One thing that most people are not aware of is the clearances between them as they cannot be seen without a line camera. If the housings are even slightly off center this may cause the clearance to be more on one side of the turbine then the other and in some cases even touch the housing which will result in failure. This is not required to be done to fix your problem though. The standard turbo's are really poorly matched with too small a wheels being used to focus just on quick response for highway overtaking etc. Most cases with my highflowed turbo's the standard actuator is used with a standard boost controller or a electronic boost controller and boost creep/overboosting is not an issue. A quick fix that you could try is simply bending out the wastegate arm to bring up the crack pressure to start the boost hold higher so that the gate opens a little later. Otherwise the HKS or Garrett adjustable actuators should fix your problem and porting the actuator should not be required. I have never bothered mass porting on an RB series Hitachi T3 and always found the best way to control boost is with a better actuator and it has always solved the problem. Hope that helps

Hay budy, that is exactly what i was after. I figured that is what i had to do. Is it better to take the tail shaft out, or leave it in place?

Hi all, i know is an ambigious question, but i was going to replace my clutch tomorrow night but, it wont be here till thursday, which means i have about 6 hours to do it, if i start at 8pm. i should be finished by 2am. LOL. BUT how the hell do i get to the two rear bolts at between the block and the bellhousing??? PLEASE URGENT

THE gate is THE PROBLEM. Not possibly, but definatly, once the gas has an ease of passage through the exhaust, it no longer want to go through the gate.