WogsRus

BUT i will check it out, thanks Mafia, my computer stuffed up.

mate my inlet temps are well below 50 deg C, intercooler runs water sprays to activate above 60 deg C. Detonation would keep on hapening, this is a pop and then nothing. Detonation normally aoocurs continualy. In regards to engine it hasn't done it any harm yet, been like that for 1 year. AFR are safe and detonation was never there when on the dyno ect.

14 psi is fine if your trying to BLOW it up. LOL>

dam from no replies to 10. 1) The stock turbo of mine is indestructable, the dam thing won't let go. LOL. it has seen 16 psi for about 30 minuts almost constant and nothing. LOL. But the FMIC and the Inlet sheilding and CAI takes care of keeping the air inlet temps low. So i am preatty sure that is OK. 2) Yeah i keep persisiting with teh Central 20, as PFC cost are high, but thanks to Blake i have one but now need to do everything else before i tune it. 3) ECU definatly has no R&R or boost cut all unlikited and so forth. 4) Gizzm EBC rock, spikes are 1 psi as the wastegate has been oversized. 5) Power and so forth to the coils is stock is there anythign to check there, earth appears to be good. 6) The pop is a funny one, it's like what happens when the coils break down. I do my own tunig with the laptop and the AFR appear to be OK, the pop is still there if i add extra fuel and so forht. I also have a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator and the stock in line, so fuel pressure seams ok. Other thing to note is that the dam AFM is maxing out at 6300 rpm in high geras . LOL.

dam it i knew it was a hard question but come on.

Ok so some time ago i took my car to teh tuners, it turned out my splitfire coils were NG, so i had them replaced under warranty and so forth. New set in, has been for about 2 moths, and i still have some issues. I am running 14 psi and the car will have a slight pop/misfire, literaly like 1 cylinder only, at about 4500 rpm, when under hard throtle in second gear. I am runing a .75 gap, as i am trying to have the bigest gap for the best complete burn. I am running the car as per my sig. I am hesitant to try a different gap as i think with splitfires they really should finer a bigger gap no poroblems. I also tried a PFC with the car on a base map at 14 psi and the car seamed a LOT better with the issue, is it possible that the ecu might be cousing it. ALSO with a PFC, can what are the optimal setting for the coil dwell and charge time?

yeah same here, do you still run stock ecu. I had issues with the stock ecu runing rich and retard. Now i have a remaped ecu and it doesn't do it as much, but still seams to missfire a fair bit. No idea why? anyone who may have any ideas please let me know.

funny you should say that. I have a central 20 ecu, and it has two limits set, a soft limit at 7200 rpm and a hard limit at 8500. If i sit in neutral, and blimp the throtle, the car will rev straight up to 8500 and basically turn of anf off, not like a rpm limiter at all, but if the car is in gear, and you blimp the throtle it will only go up to 7200 and no more. strange

Ok on the wiring manual on page 30, for the R33 it states sensor type, HW-4. so in the ect setting you select Hot Wire as the sensor, and in the Sens.NO you put in 04 and 04 for both in and out then in the Sens.Cal yout put in 1 and 1 try that

the 04, 04 is in the installation manual with all the ecu tables, i'll try and find it for you.

hay mate, i think your sensor is set wrong on the AFM. OK the settings are go to settings, sensor select, first window, hot wire, second window 04 and 04, third window 1 and 1 then in car sellect you go to 6 cylinders and arrow up.

ALSO does the link ecu do closed loop 02 controll

This is the only one i can find for R33 http://www.linkecu.com/products/engine-man...-In/gts-r32-r33

can i ask why you are selling it? I have read a fair bit about it, but it requires a air inlet temp sensor to work, or is it plug and play

hay mate, what link ecu is it. TA

you have PM

Well i have some issues with Splitfires, the first set died 6 montch after purchase 4 coils startred to die, and it looks like that migh be the case again, either way my Central 20 ECU and splitfires don't like a gap above .8 mm at 15 psi

some num nut has left a message for you. not me that is.

is that a real grille GTR or copy? if so how much to ship to tassie

If we ever get the Hunter rebuilt in time, we are in, but seing as it still has the front of the car missing, hummm, will see.

You have PM

yess YOU CAN keep the stok one in line with the adjustable one. The stock FPR does a good job at keeping the fuel pressure from fluctuating as it is damped, don't ask me how but it is. The way to connect the FPR is, fuel in -> fuel rail -> stock reg -> fuel out -> adjustable reg -> fuel to return. You NEED to run a vac line to all the regulators, otherwise at idle the stock reg, if vacume diconnected will run ritch as it will not see any vacumme, and at high rpm, the adjustable fuel reg will have to work harder as the stock one will not see any boost. Then simply set the adjujstable fuel reg, obviously can't go below stock reg pressure. Seing as we are dealing with pressures and the overall fuel pressure will be set by the fuel reg with the highest preset pressure, in our case the adjujstable reg. Hope that helps.

pm sent re pfc

there has been a few people lately not happy with brads work.

I got mo PM can you reply again