WogsRus

ANYONE???

NewKleer, i need to get a new boost controller, and some other bits first, plus i am running out of places to mount this stuff. LOL. I think a lappy will do for now, the wife is riding my nuts cos i spend too much money, Blody women, you can't live with them and you can't shoot them.

i got one form an r33gtst, seames ok, but the highest psi i managed to get with it 45 psi, it's all original of a series 2 R33 GTST. You can have it for $80. Just pump no cradel

yeah sorry they do, but the RB20 or Rb25 S1 ignitor is much better to use.

thanks mate, i've got a lappy so no probs, just figured it would be nice to use a palm cos i have one

I know i said that i am in the setup for a new turbo, and i am, but that's down the line, but for ease of adjusting the AFR it also helps. Anyways. I have been to the tuner already and told him about the dip, and he told me that it will cost me the same again to get it tuned up, eaven though it's not 100% perfect, beacuse as you ahve already stated, it's a signal bender, so not perfect. Plus he's a bit pissed at me for stating something which was not 100% true on the net, small world hey. SK, we did not pull the map down with the fuel reg, we are actually running higher fuel pressure, 41 psi. At stock levels the car was lean as hell (yess i do have a new pump Walbro Gss342 direct wire). Either that or the fuel pressure guage is wrong. I wish i could take it back, but i am afraid that he will just tell me to piss off, and being in tassie, he is the only guy that apparantly knows what he is doing. So i'm a bit stuck between a rock and a hard place. But i will get it retuned down the tarck, once the new ignition is in, and the boost controller, as mine is cactus. Out of interest then SK, how do you workout fuel flow vs pressure. I would like to play arround with the map a littel myself, but not to the extend of stuffing anything up to much. SO if i could work out theoretical extra fuel flow in % i could then take that same number away with the SAFC II.

a silly question, i take it this does not work on a Palm such as an m515??? if so how, cos i can't get it tp work

No one told me i needed one, it is simply a tuning guide for teh SAFC II. For exactly the reason stated above.

nope you still need to use the R32 ignitor, i have not been able to find any coils with ignitors fitted.

I mak emy own Burbons and Spirits, dam cheep to

here is a pic of mine with teh Spyders onn, they LOOK very neet in person, phtos do it no justice. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=132207

I know but i don't want a PFC because i am saving for maybe a wolf or there abouts, something to get rid of the AFM all together. And seing as this is some time away yet, i need to do a fixit job for now. I might just do it by ear. and go from there. I know that there is a calculation you can do to see how much extra flow the car is getting by upping the fuel flow.

are they 6 coils or is that 100 each if all up for 6 then can you tell me what condition they are in. Can you test the resistance across the pins to see what the primary coil is doing. What condition are the coils in, did they run well, how many kilometers have they done.

Hi All. Well recently i fitted and adjustable FPR and it was fine for a while now about 2 weeks, but lately i can hear that in the morning, my pump, first pumps air, as you can hear no load on the pump, and then it fills all the lines and is fine. You can definatly hear that for the first 3 seconds it's not doing any work. Now i have a new fuel pump Walbro GSS 342 with the anti drain valve, so it should be already pre prined in the system. I don't seam to have any leaks that i can detect as such, all seams preatty good, can't smell fuel anywhere, or anything funny, i checked all the hoses and filter fittings ect, no leaks. So does this mean my antidrain valve has gone cactus, or there is a leak somewhere letting air in and hence allowing the fuel to flow back??? Can it be a faulty FPR???

yeah that's it, pulls hard to 4500, then flatens a bit and then takes off like somone lite a firecracker under it's a s s, from 5500 onwards. Yeah i don't get much popoing or anything, but i certianly fell it more when cold, as my boost controller does NOT controll boost well. LOL

Buga, so the use of the display is virtually usless then. I thorght that the sensor gave a reading out between 0 and 1 volts or something. I take it i am wrong??? No need for a PFC, at the moment, i was just seing if my theory is correnct.

thanks, i'll give it a go and see what happens. ALSO, does anyone know if you can use one of the jaycar Fuel Mixture displays at all with the stock O2 sensor, only asking as a basic tuning guide.

I am calm, i am simply asking, if i richen the car up by adding extra fuel via the FPR, and the lean it out with the safc, will that help R&R as teh AFM voltages will be lower???? Thats all mate, all good.

yeah the bonets are only up for cooling, otherwise the minimised airflow over the enigne would couse problems, especialy when the car sits on the dyno for hours on end.

yeah the bonets are only up for cooling, otherwise the minimised airflow over the enigne would couse problems, especialy when the car sits on the dyno for hours on end.

NOPE, you are missing the post, The stock reg is ok, but i am in the process of setting up for a biger turbo ect so this was on the list, so it was already in the system and running. The map does pull fuel out. You are missing the point a little. What we did instead of taking a shitload of fuel out everywhere, we played arround with the fuel pressure, unitll the map was almost spot on on the stock ecu, and it is very easy to get and works well, the only problem is, and hence my question and downside, that the tuner had to add a littel bit of fuel at 4500rpm, so hence the R&R now comes on more. I did not think to up the fuel pressure more and then BACK the fuel map off with the SAFC. SO MY question then again is, if the fuel pressure is upped and i take the fuel back out with the SAFC, the computer will see less air and hence fix the R&R, Correct thinking, or not. WHat i need to know, is how much does the pressure at the injector relate to fuel flow. IE. What PSI rise does to fuel rate. KAPISH?

nope the map is basically adding 3% at 4500 and then reduces it form there on, like i said, he got teh fuel pressure to be as close to possible for best AFR, so the map bassically goes 0,0,0,0,0,1,1,2,2,3,2,1,0,-2,-5,--6,-8-7-5. So i need to add more fuel with the fuel reg pressure and then pull the fuel out with the SAFC II???

Hi All well i had recently had my computer tuned, but now am wondering if i went to the right person, don't get me wrong, 187rwKw at 10 psi is still dam good, but what i can see is that the car is hitting R&R at 4500 rpm. This is basicaly, because the tuner first pulled the AFR up with teh FPR and then trimmed the values with teh SAFC II wich meant that at 4500rpm we are adding 3%. So that means R&R is eaven easier to hit. So to overcome this, i was thinking of bumping teh fuel pressure up 5 psi, lets say, and then bringing all the values down so that at 4500rpm we are taking fuel out. This would mean no R&R as the ecu will no longer see 5.1v. Is this a correct assumption. I presume so as bending the signal ensures the ecu does not see full voltage. ONLY question is, how much do i bump the fuel pressure reg up, i don't want to pay for a new run as yet, as i am waiting for a new boost controller, but i just want to see if this would work. Is there anyway of seing how much increase in pressure gives in fuel flow to the injector and then i could take that bit out by teh SAFC II. ANY IDEAS< WELCOME. PLEASE

humm, are you sure you havn't damaged the AFM at all, they tend to be preaty fragile as such. I am going out on a lim here, but i would take the AFM out and clean it with some Contact cleaner, from CRC, about $19 a bottle and then reset the ecu. I cleaned mine and it made a big differance, and the ecu reset fixed it. Basically, disconnect the battery, jump on the break pedal and turn as many things on as posible to drain any current and leave for 30 minuts, then connect back up and go for a drive, take it on the highway and try to do many hard runs form stop to WOT. It fixed a few of my problems but i realy don't know what this could be.

OK so humor me then. When i did the tune on my computer, we actually had to add fuel at 4500 rpm, so now it hits boost cut, if i get rid of fuel through 4500 rpm with my safc II, it will remove the cut as the ecu thinks less air, correct. Dam it, if so i'm going to ritchen the map by increasing the fuel pressure and then back everything off in the SAFC II to get rid of R&R. Correct.