WogsRus

a few more details on the car please. Sounds funny.

yeah it's a bitch to get to. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=136269&hl= I did mine a while back, had to get to it from under the car, and it suced hard, but my problems are back so time to hunt arround again.

well my coild suc aswell, but i sikaflexed all mine and it helped a lot, but the gap is down to .7mm anything biger and it misfires, i desperatly need new coils. At the momnet i had .75mm and it's starting to missfire again. Mine didn't misfire or anything, but this morning i looked at the sensor volatge and at 11-12 psi she is DEFINATLY hitting 5.1V on the airflow, buga. So lookes like a two stage controller for boost and a tuned ecu with r&r taken off.

well i have already had my car on the dyno, and it seamed ok SAFC II, the R&R does not actually mean you have reached the limit of the airflow meter. It means you have too much air flow at a given RPM. How does R&R feel, mine just seams to stop pulling and then takes off again. ALSO, i have all the supporting mods, pump ect, so the car is good but the ecu sux, i am going to try and buy one that has the R&R removed and go from there. However my coild are shit and i had to regap down again on the weekend, it seams everymonth they get worse, so down to .7mm we go

yeah mine was with bonnet up to. FK that's one sweet loken ride, congrats

dam it compear that to my curve, for some reson i have a very flat curve down low, and then a massive increase. No one knows what is going on. the boost is all over the place, the contrtoller decide to pack it in. mods, 3" dump and exhaust, FMIC Safc II, Walbro Pump, HKS pod, fuel reg.

I got my SAFC II tuned and i managed to pick up about 50 ks in town, if i drive it now i would see 400 km in town out of 55 liters but highway is only about 500 if driven nice. I have already changed the O2 sensor and makes no differance.

dude i got a Brand spancka AU S1 coils direct cost me $98. yeah bosh make one too, to suit all different dwell times about $150 for a 3 channel one

You see my problem is that on cold days i get up to 13 psi and on a warm day, i get 8-10 psi, so it's hard to set the car up. I actaually need a boost controller that will regulate the boost level that i set, this has to actually measeure the incoming boost levels to regulate it. Like this mornign the boost creped up to 13 psi but 3 days ago when it was 30 deg C, it only came up to 9 psi, so who knows. The selenoid works, but my problem is that eaven using the Turbotech controller i have the same problem, which is weird.

Hay mate, take me off for now, not sure which way i'm goingot go for now, still have some other issues to sorght out first. Mainly spark. LOL

it gets rid of the ritch and retard (boot cut). It does so by fulling the ecu that it is getting less air, this however means leaner mixtures so if youget an SAFC II fited an dtuned, your back to squear one.

I got one cos everysince i was about 11 and saw one on a performance show back in Poland where i lived, i said one day i would own one of these. It was an r33 GTST S1 and i instantly fell in love. To me r33 is the best, personal opinion.

Well i have not done anything about it yet, but basically you get a VN or an AU S1 coils, withc are about $75 a set of 6, some new plug leads, and an ignitor, get a plug to rewire the stock ignition to the standard plugs, and you got wasted spark. So cylined 1 and 6 fier at the same time ect ect. Simple efective and CHEEEP $200 all up.

well atthe moent i have everything plumbed back as stock, and it works very well. SO i might just leave it for now

I have had mine running without the restrictor and it sux, the screw is bearly in and the boost is very hard to controll. Myabe mine is dogey, i have had mine appart to chech everything and no good, going to test a mates one and see if it work ok.

yeah thats the brass thing. I had mine setup without the restrictor and to get 10 psi i hardly had any pressure on the spring. I am wondering fi leaving it in will work better.

Do you guys tend to leave the stock restrictor in place. I Had mine out and the boost sucked, i could not turn the controller in much to get 10 psi, so teh spring hardly did any work. I migth try it with the restrictor in place.

what else do they do?

yeah well i might invest in another turbotech one and see what happens. Who knows ayy? Did you leave your restrictor in or took it out?

who is Eurotech, never heard of them.

If you are interested i will buy the ignitor form you for $50. Seams low but they are $150 new from Bosch. IF interested Pm me

Yes i have, well i have looked at the stock Turbo maps, the turbo will definatly go better at 14 psi, it still flows more air, but it drops almost 36% in efficiency. So you are getting hotter air at 14 psi with lower efficiency, meaning that the turbo has to work harder, hence shortining the life span. the gain form 12 to 14 psi will be marginal unless you have a very good intercooler. Having said all that, i don't think anyone has done any dyno runs so this would be great. see what you get.

at 14 psi, well not sure why but i have an R33 with 73k on the odo, with same mods and i managed 187rwKw at 10.2 psi. Seams low, but the stock turbo is only good for 12 psi, after that it just pushes more hot air in, as it is ineficient. My map however looks more like this. Well done.

i got a turbotech one. But pissed that off. I plumed the stok one back in and it seams to work DAM well, full boost at 3000rpm and holds well butthen comes up to 12@5000rpm and bleeds off. How much do the gizmo ones go for and where is the best place to get one. I was actually looking at getting a JAYCAR IBC and using teh stock selenoid to controll the boost. Failing that, i have heard good things about the nyew HYBRID stuff form HongKong. So wait and see. At the moment the car is fine, i am still going to do a wasted spark convertion as soon as i have any extra money, Better spark, more burn=more power.YEHHHAAA

i take the strutbraces will fit both series one and series two?