WogsRus

I will take some pics on the weekend, and do a write up then. It's noo to bad, but i found it was easier to acces from the bottom, from memory, there is only one bolt to get to, the hardest thing is removing the hose clamps. Basicaly, if you've cleaned your AAC valve and nothing, then this is the next thing in line, i found mine was bugared simply because my rpm idle set procedure do not sit below 900 rpm. Inside ther is some springs and a diaphram, not to bad, but you don't have to take it appart, if you spray carbon cleaner into it and so forth it will remove 90% of the problem.

well the amount of sillicone i used should have curred the problem, but no good so far, so wil have to investigate further.

nope not tuned properly yet, going in on tusday. The weird thing is i do not understand why missfire ONLY when cold. It's hard to dignose as i can only show somone when it DAM cold. LOL

HI ALL Well here it is, after spending countless hours reading and trying everyhting, nothing would cure my backfire and the fact that i could not set the engine idle with the TP off lower then 900 rpm. Cleaned my AAC Valve, tested for leaks ect ect. You name it i tried it. IT turns out the culpret was the Air Regulator, the one mounted below the intake plenum. Mine was simply not closing fully, it would simply not allow the orfice to close. So air always entered the car, enough to make a differance. I took mine apart, being very carfull, a whole heap of stuff inside, and cleaned everything with carb cleaner, and problem solved. The air regulator is an absolute pain in the ASSSSS to get to, here is the pic for R33 and R32. I recomend everyone tries this and see if their problem goes away. If it helps others i can do a write up on what needs to be done to get it off. To test each one, simply plug up a battery to the terminals and after 7 minuts the orfice should be closed. Good luck all, my problems have gone away, well have other problems but one down. LOL Air_Regulator_R32_GTST.pdf Air_Regulator_R33_GTST.pdf Air_reg_Test_R33.pdf

That makes sence, but both the forum and the nissan mauls stated different. I am going to investigate tonight. AGAIN. NissanSkyliner33_idle_part.pdf

""""""It could also be a vacuum leak. If your idle screw is completely closed, there is definatly somewhere else that air is entering into the inlet manifold. As was said above, my bet would be on the cold start idle control, or a vac leak, or for some reason a malfunctioning AAC assembly, where it is sitting open far too much when idling. Try disconnecting the power to the AAC assembly, that should close it and give you an idea of where the leak is comming from. The car should stall if the AAC valve is faulty and opening too much, when you unplug it. If that doesn't work, try pinching the bottom hose that runs past the AAC on its way to the cold start, if the idle drops when you pinch the hose = less air = stall, then thats your problem. If that still doesn't work, check all your lines for tears or holes. Check all your gaskets on the inlet manifold, and check your throttle plate is properly closing.""""" From a Prevoius post. Ok so my cars stalls with the AAC valve disconnected, so what part is Faulty, i checked for operation and it definatly moves up and down with voltage ect. what parts do i need to replace to make this work?????? HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP HELPHELP HELP HELP HELP HELP

Well did it all last night, used heaps of silicone, no plastic showing, non what so ever, and still misfire. only at 4500 and 5500 rpm. ONLY small though. I think it might be ritch and retard, as when cold at 6 am the car is boosting to 10psi and when warm only to 8.5 psi. And when warm the car runs fine, no probs. I am going to setup a wasted spark ignition system, went to see the boys at Automotive solutions, and boy are they handy, got all the peaces priced with custom cut lenght leads, a total of $150 but i still need a cheep igniter. DAM IT. WHAT ELSE CAN I TRY??? i will regap to .7mm if missfire disapears, definatly coils, if not R&R

well last night i pulled the AAC valve out,a nd gave it a good clean. She was preaty dirty. Put it all back in, tested the valves all close and open ect. AND still no good, i had a look at the AAC valve and if all the valves are shit, there is always a small amoutn of air getting through. So i puged it all back up, and nothing still can't get below 900 rpm as oper guide, so to check if there is a vac leak, i turned the AAC valve off and the car stalls. or dies in the ass. I am goignt o use good old break cleaner to run arround all my piping to see what is goign on, but i don't think i have any leaks, will see. ANY MORE ADVICE AS TO WHAT TO TRY?????????

ok, so i underestimated SPARCo about the cost, called nissan and a new one is $250. But it looks like the RB20 ignitor is thesame, and i can get a second hand one for 40 dollars. I'm going to Automotive Solutions in Campbell st to see what they have, and see what i can build up. I think i am going to go for AU S1 Coils, look much better plus have a nice and tidy plug connection. BUT if anyone has an ignitor for S1 R33 or an R32 give me a whola

Any chance you have an Ignitor for teh coils left?

Hay guys, sorry to bring up an OLD thred. I went to have a looksee today, and the Coil Pack you need is TRIDON TICO32 for a VN Commodore. retail $75. I have a series two so i am going to have a look if i can get mine to work with the VT/VX Leads with ignitors inbuilt. If not you will need a Series 1 ignitor pack and a new plug if you want to keep the old system functional. Has anyone had any luck with running the VX.VT ignitor pack???

Well i've decided to got to a wasted spark setup, going to cost no more then $150 all up with new coils and leds ect. HOWEVER i need a series 1 ignitor as i have a series 2 so i can't make it work. If somone has one to give away or sell, they are only $50 new, so i don't want to spend that much, give me a whola and i come get it. YYEEHHHHAAA SO that is SERIES 1 IGNITOR

unfortunalty mate shes an R33, and i have my cover off so it's preaty easy. I am looking at doing a wasted spark setup, but at the moment, no money, need a temporary fix as i drive the car every day. SO i'm going to silicon them up, well and see how it goes from there.

can't afford splitfire coils, maybe look at doing a wasted spark ignition setup. Dam IT, more money.

yeah i had already previously taped up my coils for luck, just to make sure, but the problem is back, it missed when i first got the car, now it does it again. So tonight i am goign to get some silicon and silicon the bastards up. Does anyone know if this trick would work on a series 2 without an igniter pack. http://gdz1la.kol.co.nz/prod01.htm

my Air Flow Meter is the original one 72K on the clock. I had cleaned it ect some time ago, and it looks very good. I still have standard coils and coperhead plugs gapped to .8mm, and i am preadty sure it's my coils, i rad the big post after i did some more searching. I i am going to get some hi grade hi temp silicon and silicon up the coils to see if teh problem goes away. if not, something else is amiss.

Ok so over the weekend i installed a FMIC. and had a few flat spots, ect, trimed up the SAFC II and redid the timing, and all good, no problems, car ran fine. I got a flat batery, i forgot to turn my lights off, so the computer reset itself. Eitherway, after a charge the batery went back in and the car ran fine, but i did not thrash it as recomended after an ECU reset, as i was driving on the highway with my family. So the car just ran, and seamed fine. I gave the car a gut full a few times on the highway and no problems no missing, nothing. So this morning, going to work, gave the car a boot full, and i got missing at 4500rpm to 5500rpm, and then nothing and pulled fine all the way to 7000rpm, i made sure that it wasn't a once off, and definatly not. Seamed to happen constantly. Tried to fiddle with the SAFC II, but it all seamed thesame. SO i already have the sparks set to.8mm and retaped up. I tried to do my idle and timing but, for some reason i can not get the idle to drop below 900 rpm with the TP off as the manual sugests, which means a littel unsure about timing seting. The car is runing 8-9 pis boost, FMIC, 3' exhaust turbo back, hks pod and intake. New fuel pump, new 02 sensor and ecu temp sensor. and Adjustable fuel pressure reg ect. The symptoms seams a lot worse when the car is cold, and only occur under 100% throtle. If i am off the throtle a bit 80% it does not miss. Once above 5500rpm no missing, pulls fine all the way to the top. The only thing i am thinking of is the coils and plugs again and the computer reset. I am also goignto chech for leaks and clean my AAC valve. Help with any advice, i realy love my car, but am becoming a little dishartened about all the little nigles that happen once you start to play with it. HELP, please anyone. ALSO>>>>>>>> how do i check for vacume leaks and exhaust leaks, best way that is.

yeah the tune is october 3, but kutzie was a bit weird last night, i asked if i could hang around to watch and he was like, humm yeah not sure, what eva. MY blody problem is now, for some reason, the car missfires at 4500-5500 rpm and then nothing goes fine. who know what it is. I have already done the plugs and coils, will redo tonight. Also going to check for vacume leaks and do my AAC valve and reset the computer and go for a thrash to make sure the computer sets up OK.

yeah that is exacly what i want to do, BUT, since i have a BRAND NEW CAT, i want to get an old one, so that i can gut it, and keep the new one incase i EVER need it. SO HAS anyone got one????????

DAM, well for some reason i can not get the idle to go below 900 rpm with the TP off, going to clean the AAC valve and check for leaks tonight. DAM IT.

humm, no comments, ok.

i have the flying dump pipe, work dam well, sounds good, and certainly it makes a differance. Quality is OK, the welds are all nice and neet, for the price it's a bargain

nah the TP has not been tampered with. I simply need to know which guide is correct. The one where you disconnect the AAC valve to set the idle or the one where you tunr off the TP to reste the idle????? I rang nissan, but they are dickheads here in Tas, BLODY DJ, should be called DICK HEADS. The TP is set as it should be 0.4V at idle

anybody???

my car idles at 650 rpm, but when i disconnect the TP it sits at about 900rpm, the computer screw does nothing. The thing i am trying to do is tha the base timing is suppose to be set with the TP off at 650 rpm, and i can't get that to happen. SO i need some help.