WogsRus

Allright then, alot of stuff has just been said, and i can't make any sense. IF my car is Stone cold, in the SETUP(SETTINGS) screen, it will show 35 at idel 35 at 1500 and 45 at 3750 rpm. This sets the knock to ZERO at the MONITOR screen Ofter driving round, and having some fun. The reeding in the SETUP (SETTING) screen can show 90, but that is only 10 on the MONITOR SCREEN. I turn the car off, leave for 10 minutes, come back start, and the setting in the MONITOR is back to zero. And slowly works it's way up. SO does the engine knock show in the MONITOR or SETUP screen, I torght that the Knock is in the MONITOR scrren, as the SETUP screen is just for calibration. So basicaly get the engine to temperature and then set the knock at correcponding rpm when hot. Is that correct. Can somone tell me how else to tell if engine is knocking????? What is the deal with teh knock setting, if it's so inconsistant, what's the use of it? The knock is taken from Output 1 or 2 for the knock sensors

so the knock level you are talking about, is that on the setup screen or on the Monitor screen. Dam this thing is confusing, i just don't see how the number could actually be as high as it states. I mean, if it was getting above 90, the dam thing would have poped by now. So whould i worry or what, should i bother about connecting to wire number 2? HELP

Well, basically if i set the number in th einital set, basiccaly, lets say 35 and 40 at corresponding rpm, then back at the monitor screen it will show 0 and maybe 10 once really hot. However 10 on monitor screen is about 90 on the setup screen. SO WHAT IS GOING ON. Nope i have not changed the timming, as far as i know. Will find out in a couple of weeks, once i get the tune.

Yep went to Speco, got a 3 wire EL falcon one, no clip cost $45 NGK OZA395-E2 cost $180 same as genuine

well not sure what is going on. Who knows, will know when something goes POP. The reading you are getting, are they at the SETTINGS screen or the monitor, after they have been set up?

ok now i'm lost. I'm goign to Speco here in Tas and ask at lunch

a mate of mine just fitted one, to a bosh pump, go to a place next to Autocraft called, on collin steet, not sure about name, very new place, they sell all BOSCH pumps and geat a great bunch of guys, look out for the yellow bosch boxes, they'll sought you out.

UPDATE. I emailed the guys form eBay in regards to the R33 O2 Sensor, to see if a universal 3 wire would fit, here is the reply. SO i'm getting the NGK one. "this sensor is not suitable for the skyline. they use a titania tipped sensor, which we do not sell. regards scott"

heres a link http://cgi.ebay.com.au/OXYGEN-02-SENSOR-3-...1QQcmdZViewItem I'm getting one as we speak. Should fit.

i have a Walbro GSS 342 and it came inbuilt with an anti drain valve,a nd semas to work ok. I have noticed however, that if the car is really hot, it take a bit longer to get started since the new pump, an adjustable fuel reg will fix that a little. It's like it fired 3 cylinders and then the rest come to life very shortly after that.

Sorry, need to clarify, all the numbers are on base setting level. ( calibration screen) So basicaly, this is where the raw data is from, i did my setting again, when cold, i presume that is better, as that is when the engine is less likely to knock. So basicaly when it is callibrated to 35 and 40 it shows zero knock on the monitor screen. Once it gets to 90 on the setting callibration, it is only about 6 on the knock monitor screen. The values that the SAFC II unses for knock are raw data, that is then interepereted to a value, so you do need to set it. I just did not think, that having number like that all over the place was normal, but like i said the car runs fine, no problems, everything seams ok. I am also going to change my O2 sensor, just to make sure, as the car has started to use a bit more fuel, mind you a heavy right foot don't help. So what reading do most pople get? ALSO THE MOST IMPORTANT. WHAT wire did you connect to knock sensor 1 or 2.

cool, i will try a get a pic though, looks weird.

ok So here is some more oddities. When cold the knock is 35, after an hour, it shows 60, then after some more time 90. HOWEVER if you then turn the car off, wait 10 minuts, on a hot engine, and turn back on, the knock is back down to 35. WHAT THE???? The car runs fine, don't sound like anything funny, no power deifferance between cold and hot, no drop off in performance. NOTHING. I am going to connect my knock sensor wire to my Knock No2 wire and see how that reacts. What can couse such a weird veriation in knock levels. ANYONE. WHAT knock sensor wire do you guys have it wired to????

Hi, i installed my SAFCII last night, no probs, last night after reconnecting the battery and everything, the knock level ( which i connected to knock 1 on the ECU) was 36 and 45. Now today after driving arround for the day and filling up on some BP ultimate, the car shows a knock level of 96 and 105. So what is going on, is it because last night the car was only just after a reset, so the setting have changed. ALso what is acceptable knock levels. I never bothered to do the test between wire 1 and two as the manual says, just connected to Knock 1. What do most people use, Knock 1 or Knock 2, sensor outputs that is.

Don't everybody rush in. Well the car is running and i didn't blow up anything, Yuppie, love the display. I mounted mine on the stearing column, looks fantastic.

Hi Well so i am installing my SAFC II on my car, and i found this odd, brown box, that looks like a connector to a module of some sourght, but nothing is connected to it, all the wires goign to it, are black and red with withe lines ect. Like teh connection box for an imobaliser I don't have a cammera to take a pic, but the plug is near the stock computer, and mine was wound in this black tape tube thing. I have hooked up all my wires, but also found that at some stage, something else must have been conected, as there is a bit of electrical tape on a couple of cables, but when undone, it almost looks like it was suppose to be this way, from factory. WHAT THE HELLL is all this extra stuff??? Has anyone else come across this. I will be back on in 30 minuts to check. SOMONE?????????/

BUMPEDY BUMP

Hi All, so i needed a new pump, so i got a GSS 342 and fitted it up. Only thing i am worried about, is that the connections to old plug, are crimp type. NOW i crimed these REALY WELL, and did teste them, i could not pull them out, However i am a littel warried, i mean if one does come loose, the positive, it's basicall a bomb. Do people normally use shrink wrap or just crimp style connections. Only asking, cos shrink wrap is not fuel proof, and over time degrades, unless you get the new sylicone shrink wrap. SO has anyone had any problems.??????????

hay guys, had the fuel system tested, and well, humm at idle 700rpm with vac on 25psi without 700rpm 30 psi at 1200 rpm with vac 32 psi at 1200rpm no vac 35psi at 6000 rpm at boost max 42 psi MAX PSI with return off 42 psi SO my pump is berley running in there. SO got a walbro high flow last night, replaced the old pump, it was not a direct fit, and I needed an big clamp to secure it to the cradle, but all ok. The car is much more responsive at low rpm and same at WOT, but the pump noise is great, sounds like a horny beeeee. LOL I'll try and fit the reg on and see what happens. ALSO, has anyone had any trouble with the connection of the old plug to the new plug with the supplied crimp connectors, I crimped mine DAM HARD, and I could not pull them apart by hand. BUT it seams a little dogie, might pull them out and get some shrink wrap. ALSO, does the pump cradle just suppose to float around in the bottom of the tank, seems a bit strange. Thanks all

LOL Anyway, got the new pump, mine appeared to be low, about to install that, The computer is HERE, so is the alarm, it's going to be a busy weekend.

thanks guys. I went to have a look at these last night, and well they would look great in black on my car, but unfortunatly, due to the colour, they looked a bit oddd. So it looks like my search continues.

yeah the only thing is, last night i took my sparks out, well just two, as you can get to two without puuling everything off, and well here is the post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=132315 check it out for me?

yeah, well Bob Jane offered me $300 for my stock rims with tires, The tires on it and BRAND NEW, for complance, so if you want some more, i got a set of 4, for $300. Thanks, Well i allready have a family car, so this is just a toy. LOL.

well the ECU is stock so no go there. I am going to check my fuel pressure today to see what the pump is doing. Maybe it's on teh way out. A sto fuel pressure ect, that will be looked at too. The fuel filter is new. But like is stated in my other post, i tried to fit an adjustable FPR and no good, either the guage is broken or the pump is stuffed, as i could not get more the 40 psi across the reg, but when the car came onto boost it simply ran out of puff. Anybody else, What are the symptoms of a car running lean?

HI all well just for good measure i wanted to see what my sparkplugs looked like, after i put in new ones, the car had propably done 300 kms sine i put them in. I had some shit fuel last tank too, cos i got only 300 kms out of it, normally 400 or so, but also a heavie foot this time, . So i took them out, and well they possibly look like beeing lean, the top electrobe was witeish, and the ceramic was wite, which i take to be lean. kinda like this (see pic) However looking at this site http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html they come in at number 20 GOOD. The new plugs were NGK BCPR6E ( i think ) Now the old ones were the iredium ones, but they were long past use by date, and they looked perfect like number 15 on the page. They were NGKs the one the website recomends) The car pulls the same as before, goes the same, does not get hot or anything, idels fine, starts within 2 seconds of cranking, no problems with boost (still running 7 psi) The only mods to the car is a HKS pod filter and a full exhaust with 3" dump pipe. (i might have possibly an exhaust leak, still not sure, can't find it, but sounds like it in the pipe, do a search for the post) Is it possible that the car is running lean or something????????????????? I am goign to reset the computer tonight to make the car relearn the new pipes ect. ALSO when i back of or at high rpm gear changes, the car backfires, like it was ritch, so i'm confused. HELLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP blody turbos, this was never this hard on an atmo motor. EDIT: Plugs running are BKR6EYA gapped at .8mm