Moschops

Cut the back out and drop in a tube. I stuck two thicknesses of red translucent vinyl inside to get the colour I was after. Sealed the back up with duct tape and tagged the transformer into the side light circuit. Masked the raised letters and sprayed white to match my car, Job done.

Here's mine http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthr...ighlight=airbox I ditched the pod as it wasn't much use as a filter. With the top cut off now it's slightly more willing than before. Like this is not as free flowing as the pod (or as noisy) but I have good filtration.

I only get this when the idle control valve needs cleaning. Once I take it apart and give it a good clean with carb cleaner it's 100% fine again.

When I turn on the ignition (but not the engine) my std guage is sometimes on 0 or sometimes near to it, but not ALWAYS on 0 as an accurate guage would be.

Guess i'm in the minority here but they look shi!te. Only one colour for 33 afterburners and that's red.

Mine does this as i'm CLOSING the throttle, not when it's closed. If i'm accelerating in, say, 5th and ease off fairly gently (not snap it closed) then I get the HKS BOV whistle at the same time the wastegate flutters. I know the fluttering on my car is the wastegate and not the BOV as the BOV sound is of constant pitch. My understanding of the sound you describe is the wastegate swing valve opening and closing to balance the pressure. Could be wrong, I was once.

End of October last year

Here's mine. I was going to make a fibreglass box in the rear wing but ultimately decided on the easier route. I need to make some sort of cover where the fuses are. The sub's not in a box so probably doesn't perform at it's best (still sounds good enough for me). Of course i'm bolloxed if I ever want to fit a strut brace!

Damn vibration. :) (actually it's named 'fake' as the board's still untrimmed. Added with Photoshop)

My Sony only powers the antenna wire when the radio is on. If I change source to CD the antenna goes down. No good for switching an amp on/off then!!

try 0.8 gap. Also make sure all the intake hose clips are tight. I had one that wasn't done up fully and was leaking on boost. Terrible misfire and no power, which I guess was down to the induced overfuelling

The S2 GTS25t had the ceramic turbine and plastic compressor, whereas the S1 (like mine) had the ceramic turbine and aluminium compressor. My mechanic checked mine recently while replacing the busted exhaust manifold studs and found it has the ali compressor, which can handle up to 1 bar. I have no proof but have heard that "Type M" signifies Turbo. The different grille, skirts, front bar, wing were factory options (along with that narsty walnut-effect dash and different interior)

Same as my '94 GTS25t. As a rule of thumb turbo = 5 wheel nuts, n/a = 4.

So... the handbrake works inside the disk then, is there a friction lining that will need replacing sometime?? Gotta say that this is the best handbrake i've ever had on a car. I'll have a go this weekend as it needs adjusting now. Thanks for the useful info.

As ndr says, don't keep topping up the reservoir as it shows when your pads are getting low.

Apparently it's the rubber used in the shock seals - Have a look here Mine's done it since I bought it 6 months ago.

Now I can get all my biatchs in my car at the same time. :Pimp:

My guess is that it wouldn't, but i'm no expert either. Right then, off to look at my pod filter to see how I can partition it. Keep the good ideas coming!

You need to have the key in and the ignition on so I guess it's not a lot different to not having one. BTW the key start still works as before.

Having picked up a red button from Arthur Daley at the Derby meet on Sunday I spent an enjoyable bank holiday Monday with the car in bits. The end result being a cool (well, I think so) start button in the car and a bit of a guide to fitting it. Total cost around £22. You can download the zipped PDF (1.18Mb) HERE . Note - It's how I did it and it's not to say it's the best/easiest/safest way to do it. It may help you if you want to have a go but don't blame me if it all goes tits up. Hope it's useful.

Perhaps if you do the cc diagnostics it will tell you if something's wrong. Don't ask me how as I can't remember.

No idea mate but you may find the info here. Dark - thanks

Have a look here. The next page gives a rundown of how I did it.

Check the pipework between the turbo and the plenum. I had a loose clip and it wouldn't go above half way on the std boost guage. Tightened it up and straight up to .8 bar.

The red beast is an Ultima and i'm not sure if it's a UK kit or production car by a small company. I agree about the wheels, they're not right and not much like chrome. It wasn't taken on track it's two different photos (you can see the different tarmac, although it's sat on a heap of pine needles)