mad082

You might as well make your following posts in this thread start with "I'm obviously a troll so I'm just posting something stupid to try and cause trouble". Can someone kick this thread over to wasteland so it can be given the treatment it deserves......

I actually didn't mind the sound of the cars. Sure it wasn't as nice as the old cars, but it's still decent.

She looked fine when she got out of the car...... Mighty fine....

Also, if your car is a natro then yes it will be loud with a 3" cannon. In fact it will be loud with any 3" muffler. Go back to a smaller muffler (or complete system if you went 3" all the way) and it will be much quieter

It doesn't have to be a Japanese muffler to be quiet. Just go back to the exhaust shop and get a decent muffler put on.

You started a thread getting upset that people get upset over people putting gtr badges on non gtrs. So by your own reasoning you are butthurt. As for where you stated that people on here don't comment much about chev badges on commodores, well that is entirely false. They are commented on all the time. But the difference is that technically speaking they are a Chev. They are sold in the middle east as a Chev. A gts with a gtr badge isn't the same. What's your opinion of ladyboys? Cause a gts with a gtr badge is a ladyboy. Pretending to be something it isn't. A commodore with a Chev badge however, is just fat chick with makeup on.

Don't they do the silly grid here where p2 is actually the better place to start?

Go Dan! Front row start.

Vettel is out in q2!

Ok you may have been round skylines you entire driving life, but clearly know little. Being around cars doesn't mean you know about them. My missus has been around imports for about 10 years but she knows nothing when it comes to the mechanical side of things. You clearly know little about highflowing turbos and the cost involved in that, and why it is so expensive. To answer your question about boost levels (7psi vs 10psi), again this shows a bit of a lack of knowledge on your part. The stock boost setup on the r33 is with a 5psi wastegate actuator (although it will often be a bit higher with the addition of a turbo back exhaust) and a bleed off solenoid. The solenoid is closed below about 4500 rpm, but above that it opens. When it opens it bleeds off air going to the wastage actuator so the actuator sees less pressure than what is actually in the system. So to just run the lower boost all the time just remove the vaccum hose (that runs from the T piece in the hose from the cooler pipe to the actuator) and plug it.

Could be a wiring issue or crank angle sensor as first things to check. Also try checking fault codes to see if it's something that is showing up there

Wouldn't surprise me. He rides a fair bit. If he was on a Trek then it was probably him. He's sponsored by them.

Lol. I meant to do it ages ago but never got around to it. But since he is part of the commentary team for channel 10 for the gp it seemed appropriate

I met Webber a few weeks back, and he's come into work a few times since (I've met his dad too). Mark doesn't say "um" or "err" anywhere near as much as when he's on tv (pretty much never says it).

What do you need to pull those speeds in those gears? A 6L Chev motor would be a good start. Unless you like getting beaten of the line by a hyundai excel. Look at this way, 4th gear won't get to 200kmh on the stock ratios and you want 3rd gear to go faster than 4th. So imaging taking off from a stop in 2nd gear with a big laggy turbo that doesn't make boost until 70kmh. By the time you get to 60kmh the grandma in her corolla that was stopped next to you will be a pair of tail lights in the distance. And rev limit is the least of your problems when it comes to hitting 300kmh. Aerodynamics plays a major part. And if you are planning on building your motor with big injectors, turbo, etc then I wouldn't bother about fuel economy because it's only going to get worse with those mods

Don't bother spending too much chasing better fuel economy as it's counter productive. Especially since you haven't worked out your actual economy. If you spend a few hundred dollars and then only gain 0.5l/100kms then it will take a hell of a long time to recoup your losses unless you do a lot of driving. Driving style plays a major part in fuel economy, as does conditions. Lots of short trips or traffic driving uses more fuel. Some things to do/try are: Make sure your tyre pressure is good Use less throttle. It's not all about rpm, but throttle %. Too much throttle takes the ecu out of closed loop and uses richer mapping. Think ahead. If you drive a lot in stop start traffic then use your head. No point getting up to 60kmh if you can see the traffic stopped up ahead and are only going to have to slow down again. Aircon over windows. Having the aircon on is better than having the windows down (despite the poor testing mythbusters did), since the aircon cuts in and out. At low speed it doesn't make much difference, but at higher speeds it does. And don't sit there for minutes idling to let your car come up to temp. It's not needed.

Can't believe no-one has said it yet...... 2jz, no shit!

If you have no thermostat then you are wasting fuel and causing excess damage to your engine from it running too cold all the time. This goes for any car with an ecu. And as superben said, an exhaust leak will let exhaust gases out, not oxygen in. It will however cause a slight loss of power. And also as superben said, without knowing your actual economy in L/100kms then it's hard to say whether you are getting poor economy, average economy or just have a dicky fuel gauge.

I'm reasonable in a car on a track and reasonable at racing games, but in most cases the 2 don't transfer. Sure the racing game will help with line choice, track knowledge, etc, but they don't give an accurate sense of speed, physical stresses, and general sense of consequences. Of course a proper simulator would be closer to the real thing, but in the case of console games, they are just that.

But the rb20 is a bit lacking in torque. Not to mention the power gains and abuse that the stock sr20 can take compared to the rb motors (such as the exhaust wheel of the turbo deciding it wants to be part of the catalytic converter). I've owned both a s13 and a r33 and they are very different to drive. The s13 felt much sportier to drive. The skyline felt less sporty and more comfortable in its ride.

I used racing suspension (didn't tweak it at all), tweaked the torque split and had gear ratio set to about 350kmh (makes turning into the kink at the end of conrod a bit of a handful)

+1 for crash. It's done it once before as well. I just let it do it's thing and then it works fine the next time

I don't drink, so that counts me out of this event

New record Time: 1:55.207 Car: r35 gtr black There is a 1:54 in that car. I did a 1:55.447 and then did a lap where I was 0.955 up at the last check point but went too cautious into the chase and the last corner and only got a 1:55.295. When I set the .207 lap I also managed to get the 3 magnificent laps trophy as the 2 laps before it were both low 55s. Had a bit of a zone going

Had a go with the r34 again. Managed to crack into the sub 2 minute bracket. 1:59.289. It was a super tidy lap. Still a tenth here or there to be had, but not much. Found a few lines that seem to work a bit better in a few spots so going to give the 35 another go