mad082

weight reduction isn't that important in top speed equations, otherwise they would've made the veryon lighter than it is. light weight is more important for fast acceleration, but for top speed aero and power are the most important things. the issue with the skyline is the general aero is pretty poor. there is a limit to how much you can alter it without drastically altering the car (such as chopping the roof, etc).

it would be funny to get a 33, put an alloytech motor in it and a hsv front bar on it. now that would piss off the green eyed nissan fanbois.

if you have to buy a motor and box and don't mind spending the extra few dollars, definitely go the rb25. shits all over the rb20.

why do you care so much about losing some points? if you haven't had a fine in the past 4 years then you will have all your points so it isn't much of an issue and if you have curbed your bad driving habbits then it shouldn't be an issue in the future either.

B-spec level 35 is the easier way to do it, LOL

the less work any boost controller has to do the better. setting the wastegate to as close as the desired boost the better.

if you put a few hundred thousand into a skyline it should get to 400kmh. comparing the cost of the veyron to making a skyline do 400kmh is as silly as comparing 250kmh to 400kmh. the reason being that bugatti had to do a lot of work to make a car that will do 400kmh but pass emissions laws and all that sort of crap. they also designed the car from scratch, where as with an existing car you build a big engine and spend a bit of money on tweaking the aero. i doubt you'd get an RB powered skyline to do it though. blown v8 dropped into one you would, but not a small, turbo 6.

i get a flat feeling on waking on some mornings. i think that comes down to what part or the sleep cycles i'm in when i wake though.

are any of the bulbs LED? if yes, that is the problem. if no, then it may an issue with the flasher unit. also check that the bulbs are the right voltage and wattage for the indicators. maybe try swapping them 1 at a time with the right hand indicator ones and if it moves it to the right hand side then you will know it is a bulb issue and which bulb is the cause.

at first i thought you were having a go at me, LOL and to your last paragraph, spot on. doing 256kmh on a public road is bloody stupid. then talking about it on a pulbic forum is even more stupid.

at that sort of boost on that turbo i would've expected the power to be closer to 250kw. the lower power output of your car could be due to 1 (or possibly more than 1) of a few things. it could be due to the quality of the tune, condition of engine (compression, etc), the dyno may have been a low reading dyno, if it was hot when it was done then that will affect the power reading as well, and there are a few other things as well which i couldn't be bothered going on about as the ones i listed are the more likely ones. i'd start by getting a dyno run done. this will give you an up to date base to work off. the dyno opperator should also be able to give you a bit of an indication of what the tune is like and whether they think they could get you a bit more power.

as was said above, it isn't as simple as just pulling off the turbo. if you were to go to the trouble of doing it you would end up a skyline that is about as fast as a hyundai excel, and i'm being deadly serious. in a race a completely standard non turbo skyline would leave you for dead. there is also the fact that the car is registered as a turbo, so just taking the turbo off doesn't make it legal to drive. moral of the story, you should've used your brain and not bought a car that is illegal for you to drive. either sell it and buy a natro or park it in the garage until such time as you can legally drive it. the cost to remove the turbo and then reinstall it once you can drive a turbo car (if you are paying a workshop to do it) would be a large part of the cost of buying a non turbo skyline

having it fully sealed has 2 benefits. 1 is a side effect of the other. the main reason being that there is no fuel vapours leaking around the car (so if someone walks past with a cigarette in their hand it won't go boom). the side effect of this is that when it is sealed there is a limit to how much fuel can turn from liquid to gas, thus helping with fuel economy.

if you stand at the drivers side of the car with the bonnet up and look at the plennum, at the far left (towards the back of the car) you will see a unit with some wires and hoses attached to the plennum and a phillips head screw in it (the idle screw). it is attached with (from memory) 3 x 12mm bolts.

speedo sender unit is in the gearbox. if you get under the car you will see some wires coming out of the gearbox. there will be 2 lots of wires, 1 lot is speedo, the other lot is the neutral switch. with a multimeter you could tell which is which (easier if you have someone with you to put the car in and out of gear with the ignition on (car doesn't have to be running though). but you could simply check all the plugs and look for damaged wires.

i was serious. you may be able to alter how many emails are shown per page and you may be able to change it to 50 or 100 emails per page. or you may simply be able to select a delete all option. would definitely be worth logging in to at least have a look and see if there is an option that will save you a bit of time.

wow, 2 votes. that puts me ahead of tony abbott too.

as above, not all cars are designed to have the fuel gauge drop when the ignition is turned off. plenty do, but plenty don't

only way that a fuel cap can affect fuel pressure is if it is creating a vaccum as the fuel level drops. if this is happening then you would get the "psssht" when you open the cap as it would have to seal tightly. other than that, all fuel pressure is controlled by both the fuel pump and the fuel pressure regulator. if the fuel pump is dying then it won't be able to supply enough fuel and pressure will drop. if the fuel pressure reg is shot then it will simply make the fuel pressure be wrong.

power steering could be a few things. could be the pump, could be low on fluid or could be a sensor. if the steering goes heavy when the speedo drops out then it could be to do with it having speed sensitive steering, in which case finding the issue with the speed sensor is the place to start. it will either be a loose connection or a dodgy sensor unit. it also comes down to whether it is just the wiring from the ecu to dash that is causing the speedo to drop out, or whether it is between the speedo sender unit and the ecu. either way, electrical issues are a pain in the arse.

with your single vote i'm now also more popular than her, LOL

why not simply log into the email account on the ISP's website and delete them there? might have to delete them in lots of 20 or so though (like a page at a time)

i don't have raw sugar for the health reasons, i prefer the taste.

gotta get in early before they read some other noobs post and gets the wrong info.

also designed for people with small hands to work on, LOL