mad082

terry what is your opinion on taking magnesium after excercise or strenuous activity? i've found it helps a bit with muscle cramps, especially if taken just before going to bed.

people were going crazy and killing people before video games. i say we ban religion since it is the cause of this shit.

there is fudged data and there is inaccurate data. just make sure to not get the 2 confused. inaccurate data in the case of dyno readings just comes from dynos that are a bit out. you will never get 2 dyno readings that are exactly the same, but they should be close. if you get one that is noticably different (either higher or lower) then you can usually put it down to the dyno error rather than operator error (if you are simply getting a power run done and they aren't charging you for tuning where they want to show off their skills). and yeah, the max power a car puts out is somewhat meaningless. average power is what makes a car fast. no point having a big turbo that makes 400hp at 8500rpm if at 5000rpm it's only making 150hp because even a stock v6 commodore will be a pair of tail lights off in the distance by the time you get it to come on boost.

nope you can't. just wait the few months till you get off your P's (assuming you can get your opens in march next year)

try carby cleaner. degreaser would be a bad idea. as for how, without pulling it off you could just spray a buttload down the hose leading to it via the little hose that the spray comes with and hope for the best, LOL.

is the roof lower in the 34 than the 33 (or seat higher)? it must be because i'm 6'2 and in my 33 i had stacks of headroom. even in a mates with a sunroof my head wasn't hitting the roof (was close though).

yes v8 supercars use some CF parts. there is a thread in the DIY section, or is it the fabrication section (most likely in there), where a guy made a carbon fibre lip for his front bar. as for how easy it is to work with, it isn't that much different to fibreglass for making simply things. for making more complex items then you really need balloon molds (that's how bike frames are made), etc to make the initial shape and then you lay on extra carbon. i think the cost is a fair bit more than fibreglass though.

have you not been able to go above 8psi because of your lack to adjust the boost, or because there is some sort of restriction stopping you no matter how much you set the boost controller to run? if the latter, then you either have a boost leak (either a gasket is shot or there is a split in a hose, etc) or there is somthing (possibly packaging from the plenum) caught in the plenumn.

i agree with you agreeing with super dragger.

there is also a cold start valve, which works independant to the IAC and AAC. it's also in a bitch of a place to get to.

ok, there are a few things to consider when talking fuel economy. firstly is that you shouldn't just say "i get XXXkms to a tank". you should take note of how many litres you are putting int so you can work out your exact fuel economy, because everyones fuel gauge reads differently, and the point that you fill up varies as well, so you could be getting ok fuel economy and not realise it. secondly is that the rpm you change gears at is only half the story. your amount of throttle percentage plays a big factor as well. if only rev to 2000rpm but use 50 to 75% throttle then you will use more throttle than someone who revs to 3000rpm but only uses 30 to 40% throttle. as for the o2 sensor, they only work at light load, so if you drive like above (low revs but high throttle %) then your fuel economy won't be affected much by a failing o2 sensor. also the difference the o2 sensor makes at lower rpm isn't super huge, hence why you won't smell the car running rich. it's not like it is dumping in heaps of extra fuel. the actual difference in fuel economy is only around 20 to 25%. with the o2 sensor working the AFR will be around 14.5:1. when the o2 sensor is disconnected it will run around 11.5:1. the o2 sensor can be checked with a multimeter. driving style generally plays the main part in fuel economy. doing short trips, or start/stop driving, or just plain spirited driving will dramatically increase fuel economy. a lot of the time, what young guys think of as driving like a granny is still medium acceleration and they could actually drive more economically. as someone said before, if there is actually a fault causing poor economy it isn't just limited to the o2 sensor. thermostat can play a big part. if the car doesn't come up to temp within the first 5 to 8 mins of driving, and doesn't sit in the middle of the temp gauge when up to temp, then your thermostat isn't working properly and causing the ecu to run in cold start enrichment. dodgy wheel bearings or sticking brakes can also play a part. just jack the car up and try turning the wheels (obviously with the handbrake off and in neutral when checking the rears). plus all the ones listed above. as for not being serviced since september, that isn't that bad, depending on how many kms it's done. if it has done lots of kms in that time then yes it's bad, but if it wasn't a daily then it isn't so bad, but even then it should be changed at 6 monthly intervals because oil degrades over time.

that's why if you don't have remote locking you should always lock your car with the keys. that said, back before i had remote locking i locked my keys in the car on about 3 occasions.

that's awesome plus

at a guess, about $2000 for tune, cams and cam gears. what is in doubt though is the accuracy of the dyno reading. the reason being that an experienced dyno operator knows how to alter certain parameters to trick the dyno and see bigger gains (even if they only get a 10% gain from it it is still over 10kw). also in question is the safeness of the tune as well as what fuel was used. i've seen certain tuning workshops tune cars, then put a tank of c16 in, bump the timing up to suit, do the power run that which they use to show the owner how much power it made and then put it back to 98 octane fuel settings. the owner has no idea until he puts it on a dyno again and the power isn't as much as what it made when tuned. a guy i know had something like this happen to him. his car made something like 450hp when it was tuned and i don't think it has made over 415hp on any other dyno since. you have to remember that the tuning company is the one who put the video on youtube, so there is every chance that they have tweated a few things to make the outcome look better than it actually is when they sent the car out the door. it also looks like the car isn't tied down which would see a very slight gain in power as it takes away some of the rolling resistance. the other thing is that if the car had had a blown headgasket and had the head machined then that would give a slightly higher reading than a car with the stock gasket in there as it would have higher compression.

you won't get 400 to 500hp from a turbo skyline for 2k unless you use evertyhing second hand or a cheap chinese lag monster turbo and cheap nasty manifolds, etc. a ball bearing turbo will set you back about $2000 (plus a few hundred for oil and water lines and fittings), ecu from $1000, not to mention injectors, afm, exhaust manifold, and you would most likely be up for a rebuild shortly afterwards as the stock internals don't last that long above 300kw. bare minimum to get that power would be $4000.

you should be able to work out what belt goes on which pulley based off what it lines up with.if you put a straight edge across the face off each pulley any that use the same belt will line up.

if you were to do a full exhaust, pod filter, cams and tune you'd maybe get a 25hp gain if you're lucky. natro's are hard to get power out of and take big money to do it. if you want a powerful/fast NA then you bought the wrong car. as for removing the rev limiter, what would you want to do that for? you won't gain any power as peak power is made below redline by about 1000rpm. all you would do is drastically shorten the life of the engine.

don't want to burst your bubble (just want you to have all the facts), but they have to be put back to stock when put through compliance, so it may have had mods on it when it came into the country. it may not have, but it may have. this sort of goes with what i said before. most people base the condition of their new car based only off the life it has had in australia for the past couple of years and not how it spent the majority of it's life back in japan. this is one of the reasons i never really trust the kms on the clock of imports. there is a very good chance it's had a lower reading odometer put in. other than that, welcome to the forum

err, that's just him being a, um, typical aussie mate

you have to remember that the engine in them is setup like a fwd, so it is sideways compared to that of the S series. so no, the gearbox isn't the same as the S series cars and won't handle quite the same amount of power. the extra strain of the 4wd will also take its toll on the gearbox. for this reason you find that many gtir's are in somewhat poor condition these days, in the same way that a lot of the older wrx's are a bit worse for wear. so long story short, a cheap gtir to build up as a project car could become a very expensive gtir very quickly.

there are plenty of brake pads suitable for your skyline. which are best, or at least suitable for you depends on what you use your car for. if you go to track days then you would want something better than if you are simply using it as a daily driver. as for the boost gauge, have you checked to make sure that the vaccum line is intact? other than that, do a search on here for a thread about how to fix it. if you aren't comfortable with doing the work yourself you could print out the instructions and take them to an auto electrician, or anyone that does electrical repairs for that matter, and have them do it for you.

well that is 1 foot foward, now lets see if the state governments figure out that you have move the other leg as well in order to walk.

or you could go to repco/autobarn or the like and get a ryco filter. probably cost you less and do the same job. and yes it should be changed periodically. the type of fuel has little to do with how much crap builds up in it. it has more to do with the condition of the tank the servo keeps the fuel in as well as the tankers it is transported in.

or you could simply just break the bead and leave the tyre on the rim but you would be able to spray all of the lip since the tyre wouldn't be touching it.

i may be mistaken, but i think that the upgraded engine was for the lexus only (US version), not the soarer. so any soarer you get in australia will only be a 191 or 195kw, 353 or 363nm engine