mad082

which model soarer are you talking about (missed where the discussion started and too lazy to go looking)? the soarer with the ugly digital dash is slow in stock v8 form. talking mid 15 second 1/4 mile (based off times on the soarer forum) as they are pretty heavy (around 1600kg for the lightest one, 1750kg for the full luxo model) as they are luxo barges and being auto doesn't help. throw a supercharger on it and it's a different story though.

you can do it without any software, you just need a paperclip in the consult port and i think it makes the check engine light flast with the fault codes. otherwise if you want a consult cable, contact newkleer on here and see if he still sells them.

it's not a fwd, so shouldn't need a flex joint unless your engine mounts are shagged allowing the engine to move a lot, especially if you still have the bracket from the gearbox to the exhaust as it will make sure the dump/front pipe moves with engine.

coils, etc are all the same, as with all the sensors. all you will need to do is the injectors. not sure if the fuel pumps are the same or not. same with the AFM.

is the exhaust a cat back exhaust or turbo back? if only cat back then get a front/dump pipe and cat. don't bother with the fuel pump as it won't give you any performance gain unless the old pump is stuffed. i wouldn't bother with a SAFC, but go for a nistune instead. you won't see a huge gain from it though (10 to 20kw) which you won't really notice through the seat of your pants. to see any gains beyond that you need to go a bigger turbo which will also require bigger injectors and possibly AFM as well (you can get up to about 250kw on the stock AFM).

yes it should. as for brands, it doesn't matter that much as it's a bit of pipe. they will all for the same. only difference will come down to the design of the dump. i think the x-force bell mouth dump/front pipe is ok for the money.

pretty sure the new coyote 5.0L supercharged v8 is all alloy.

maybe he just sanded the paint off the carbon since half the time it is that thin you can see the carbon weave through it, or so they say.

ok i'll be more specific, they didn't make a 4 door gtr in his model. as for the autech, they technically weren't made by nissan.

the o2 sensor is only working when at light load, and when it isn't working it should run richer, not leaner, so the ping shouldn't be related to it not working. as for the o2 reading surging back and forth, that is what it is supposed to do. at light load it should fluctuate. i'd start by checking the plug and the wiring. sometimes they get damaged if they touch the exhaust and melt a bit. if all the wiring is fine then look at getting a new o2 sensor.

just tell him he has a modified gts4, not a 4 door gtr as the GTR was never made in 4 doors, he doesn't have flared rear guards, and most importantly, the gtr runs a rb26, not a rb26/30, so he's got a more beefed up motor than a stock gtr. someone with a v8 falcon may have the same motor from the factory as an xr8 but that doesn't make it an xr8. just tell him he's selling himself short by saying it's a 4 door gtr, LOL

this. everyday after work a douche in a vp commodore ute that works next door does a skid as he leaves. now before you say "typical commodore driver", there is also douche in a skyline with a mate in a silvia and they constantly go past work at 45 degrees. if i had to choose which of the 2 to lock up and crush their car it certainly wouldn't be the guy in the commodore, it would be the 2 douches in the imports. so to sum up, skylinesandman please sell your skyline, hand in your licence and use public transport from now on. you sound like the type of person who has little regard for the road rules and will probably end up hurting an innocent person when you run out of talent.

oem coils will perform as well as splitfires. as for whether you need them or not, i wouldn't bother buying them until you have increased the boost and seen whether it misfires or not. if it doesn't misfire then save yourself a few hundred dollars. also don't rule out yellowjacket coils. they seem to perform well also.

i'd still go for the chev or ford option because the ability to buy parts from you local dealer or from repco, etc would be more appealing, plus the amount of aftermarket tuning for them is pretty extensive these days.

yeah i noticed the 2 different resistors but i know didly squat about electrical stuff so i thought i'd just ask to clear it up for sure.

what do you mean it's cutting the fuel or spark? does the engine cut out of does it misfire? if the engine feels like it's cutting out then i'd say you might have an AFM issue. if it is a misfire then try gapping the plugs down to a smaller gap, but i'd say that you have a coil pack issue.

he may possibly mean a dose pipe, meaning an alloy intake pipe (as they increase the noise) but i could be mistaken.

a few things, save your money and get a manual boost controller. they are a darn sight cheaper (turbotech is about $30 on ebay) and work nearly as good. the money you save could be spent better elsewhere. also don't bother with an air/fuel meter unless you plan on doing the tuning yourself and only do that if you know what you're doing otherwise you could end up with a blown motor. a nistune will set you back about $1000 installed, including the z32 ecu which you would need to run it. my advice would be to just get a FMIC, dump/front pipe, 3" cat (if you don't have one already), manual boost controller and a nistune if you want that little bit extra. then just run your boost at about 12psi and it should be close to your goal.

just curious how it works with the different brightness required for tail lights and brake lights? do the LEDs just get brighter when you put the brakes on when the lights are on?

the longer you ride on the fatter tyres the better since you will use more energy on them so get stronger. as for whether it's you or the bike, it depends on a few things but i'd be inclined to say both. if they are semi serious roadies then they probably do something like 150 to 250kms a week, so they would have much stronger legs unless you are doing similar sort of distances. as for higher end flat bar vs road bike, once you get above about $1200 they do start running road bike gearing, but some will use triple chainring cranks while road bikes only run double chainring. that said, the flat bars of a similar spec will usually be a touch cheaper due to the road bike shifters being rather expensive. for example, the flat bar version of my bike retails for $500 less ($2000 vs $1500) and the only difference other than the shifters/flatbar setup is the wheels are a bit lower quality but they would only account for $100 or so. in the carbon versions there is a similar price difference.

why do people spend thousands of dollars doing up a car only to drive it around on the street and not on the track? essentially the same thing. my missus falls into this category. she doesn't like beefcakes. she thinks that most footy (mainly NRL) players are ugly.

the best answer is: sort of. yes a flat bar doesn't have the aero of a drop bar road bike, but also they generally are a bit heavier, the gearing is more mtb spec (unless it's a higher end model running road bike gearing) so your top speed will be lower but cruising speed will be similar, and they generally run slightly wider tyres, which increase resistance and lower rolling speed. the quality of the wheels will generally be lower (again, depending on what quality bike you have) so the rolling speed of the bearings will also be lower. there are a few things that you can do to help your cause though. first is to get the wheels serviced with a good quality grease and make sure they are adjusted perfectly. this will mean you are rolling as fast and easily as possible. second is to get a set of road bike tyres (700 x 23c) for your bike. they will fit on your rims. expect to pay atleast $60 each for decent ones (decent ones are lighter, will last longer and get less flats because of a higher density casing). next is to lower your handlebars. if you have a stem that only has a slight upwards angle then flip it upside down. this will lower your handlebar height by about an inch and make you a bit more aerodynamic. also if you have spacers under your stem that are only about 5mm thick then pull one out and put it above your stem, again lowering your bars. finally, make sure you have your seat set at it's optimum height. when the pedal is at its lowest point you want you leg to be almost straight. that will have your bike as fast as it's going to be. then just get yourself some lycra. there is a reason why they wear it. first is that a decent pair of cycling knicks have both a chamois and some pading in them. cheap ones just have a chamois. the jerseys have pockets on the back as well as being tight fitting, making you as aerodynamic as possible. to put this into perspective, on flat gound in shorts and a jumper my top speed if i really push hard in a sprint i can hit just over 40kmh (depending on wind direction). on the other hand if i'm in my kit i can hit about 10km/h faster than that.

if the system has no leaks then the problem is going to either be a blocked radiator or shagged water pump as the 2 main possible causes

has it ever worked since you have owned the car? if yes then do the climate control diagnosis. if no then check to see if the heater box coolant lines are connected in the engine bay. it is common for the heater box to leak so people disconnect the lines. may also be that the heater tap is shagged.

i had an issue when i put an emanage ultimate into a mates 33. it wouldn't start. put the stock ecu back in and it would start. turns out it was the loom not quite plugging in right (dispite looking like it was it, some pins just weren't making contact). i pushed on the plug a bit and it started first go