mad082

what sort of wheels are you after? one of the guys at work has a set of crank brothers wheels for sale. i think he wants about $500, but i'm not entirely sure. they are in very good condition, the rear has a new freehub body. pretty sure one of the boys would also have a set of decent brakes for sale too.

i don't take half the stuff i'm supposed to

if you get a multimeter you can test it yourself, as long as the car will start

you are correct. the left/right switch is for when you want to adjust the mirrors. the fold in switch is independant of that and will fold in both mirrors at once. if it was only folding in 1 mirror then there is a fault.

it could be a case of simply dropping the fuel pressure, however it will come down to whether it is rich all over the tune or just up high (which is most likely since the fuel required at low load is bugger all so even a dying pump shouldn't be leaning out at idle). my guess is that only the upper end of the tune will need to be altered and even this shouldn't require too much work, depending on whether they tune with the hand controller or with pc software and yes i agree with the fact that it isn't really fair if you have to pay for a second tune.

the pump may have been failing by a small enough amount to not seem too bad (lets say 25% down) since all he has to work off is injector rates and every car will run different injector rates with similar mods. once tuned at that rate if a fully operational fuel pump put in it will run rich as hell (since it has just started adding in 25% more fuel). that is not the tuners fault in my opinion. as for your tuner charging you to do work, that isn't that unreasonable is it? they are doing work, why shouldn't they get paid for it. if it doesn't solve the problem then they can't be blamed for that if they honestly thought it was going to help. often with car problems there can be many different causes so you just have to go through each possibility until it is fixed. sometimes you might get it first go, other times it might take you a day of mucking around. some people will be kind enough to fix stuff for free, especially if it doesn't take them much time to fix or they made a reasonable amount of money off the initial work. the fact remains though, new pump is the cause of the running rich. had the pump continued working for a year then the tune would've been fine. it essentially is no different to a tune being out because a bigger turbo was fitted.

does the ca powered s13 come with a factory side mount intercooler like the sr20 does? if yes then have a look on the side of the intercooler for a BOV (doesn't look so much like a bov like the skyline ones do). my sr powered had a bov there and it was crap (makes a good paperweight though). if you have pulled off the side mount cooler and run a front mount then ignore the above. as for where to run the boost feed from, i found on my 33 that when i had it from a vaccum line off the plenum i got boost spiking occasionally. off the 'hot' cooler pipe (between turbo and cooler) it held much more stable. as for bov vs no bov, for track work it won't be that much of an issue. you can simply keep the throttle either partially or wide open as you change gears (still using the clutch) so the bov would only really be opening at the braking points when you lift off, and boost built won't be that much off an issue either as you don't simply floor it coming out of a corner you wind the throttle on, however the sooner you can get boost to come on the better.

ok so others don't have to go looking for mods because you were too lazy to post them i have quoted your post from the dyno section. you say that the pump was failing during the tune and that you fitted another pump. was that done after the dyno runs? if yes that that is your problem and your fault and not the tuners. your tune was done with a failing pump and you have gone and fitted a working pump which will now be supplying much more fuel (higher pressure) so the injectors will be pumping in extra fuel.

i would get the voltage at the alternator checked to rule out any wiring issues being the cause of the low voltage.

both mirrors are supposed to fold in at the same time. you can't fold them in individually.

sometimes they go a bit too far and this can result in worse eyesight than before. also, if your vision is poor in both short and long sight, sometimes the surgery will only cure one of them and not both.

not that much different to the 6 speed gearbox since 5th gear on a 5 speed box will be taller than 5th gear on a 6 speed box. without looking up the actual ratios i'd say that it is nearly as tall as 6th gear. either way, you would never get close to hitting redline in 5th gear as it won't make enough power to overcome the wind resistance at that speed, and there is a good chance that with the taller 6th gear the top speed would actually be lower. even a turbo supra with mild mods would struggle to max out both the 5 and 6 speed gearboxes since the gear ratios would put it at about 250 to 260kmh. unless you get all the parts second hand and dirt cheap and do a half arse job and only plan on running stock boost you won't convert a NA skyline to turbo for under $1000. this is a fact and if you have a good read through the thread you linked to you will see that i'm right

it is going to be a mix of the coils arcing out and if you are still running the stock ecu it is starting to going into it's excess airflow protection. try backing the boost down just a touch. on a warm day, after giving it a squirt a few times in a short period of time any power gains from the extra boost would be gone because the stock cooler suffers from heat soak very quickly. if you want to run that sort of boost then you really need a bigger intercooler.

i think a lot of people in here who have driven fwd cars need to go back, drive them again and change their driving style to suit. you can't simply get in one and drive it like a rwd and then say "this is crap, rwd is better". a fwd fanboi could do the same. hop into a rwd car, try and drive it like a fwd and then say that rwd is crap. if you go barrelling into a corner, then just try and stop on the gas on the way out of course it will push a bit, however if you do the same thing in a rwd car you will find that there is a good chance you would end up pointing back back where you came from if you don't do it carefully. a lot of people don't show fwd cars the same caution when trying to drive them fast so then say they are crap because they behave differently to a rwd car. also fwd 'sports' cars from the 80's 90's are a pretty poor basis to work on for what this thread is about. the new stuff has much more advanced diffs, etc which cuts out a lot of the torque steer and power understeer. turn in understeer won't vary much between rwd and fwd and comes more down to the individual car setup as plenty of rwd cars will understeer like a bitch on turn in when pushed hard and a fwd car can be made to get turn in oversteer pretty easily. i'm not saying that fwd are better than rwd, just simply saying that they shouldn't be ruled out, and for 90% of the driving people do you won't notice the difference between rwd and fwd. it's only when you start to drive spiritedly that any difference becomes apparent, and anyone who says otherwise is suffering from a placebo effect where their dislike of the platform is making them feel things that aren't there.

can't compare the cost of importing a japanese car to that of a car from the states because not only are you paying for compliance but you are paying for a RHD conversion as well, which means all new dash, steering setup, etc. certainly not cheap. not to mention that the cost of freighting a car from japan would be much less than from the states.

i did a similar test in the missus SSS. this wasn't just 1 tank either. i ran each different fuel for a few months so that i could rule out any possibly differences from driving style, terrain or trip type, because basing your results over 1 tank of fuel isn't a good idea and could see you wasting a lot of money for no reason in the long run. this was based on 2 different 98 fuels, 2 different e10's and 1 91 octane. the difference between them all was much less than 1L/100kms. i've done similar tests in other cars i've owned, but generally only for a few tanks rather than for a few months, and always had similar results. with the price difference being about 10% and the fuel savings generally being below 5%, it isn't worth it in my situation.

fan shroud should be the same. as for why they changed things, sould be one of many things. could've been due to cost cutting, new technology (resulting in price reductions or supposed better reliability, or just cosmetic changes), or a few other reasons.

*facepalm* RWD fanbois need to pull their tampons out and go for a decent drive in a decent fwd. there's plenty of fwd cars that handle better than a lot of rwd cars

try swapping the bulbs over. if the dull side stays dull you know it's an electrical issue. if it changes side then you know it's the bulb. you could also test the voltage with a multimeter

would look a lot better if it didn't have cheese cutters stretched onto fat rims. wide tyres on wide rims = tough skinny tyres on skinny rims = not that tough, but still ok skinny tyres on wide rims = hellaflush = ooo look at me = epic fail.

i don't think i've ever been so dissapoint of you

do some more research into it. it may be a rental/lease program where at the end you have give the bike back, or buy it for a certain amount of money, like what you get with radio rentals, etc. we have a similar finance option at work. we also have a normal finance program, but they both work out more expensive than putting it on your credit card and paying it off over the same period of time.

what do you mean by paying it off in instalments? also how much of it are you planning on putting on your old bike? if you swap pretty much everything over and then put all your old gear on the new bike and then sell it as a complete then it will probably work out pretty cost effective. and to ido09s, what you were saying about getting the bike much cheaper in vic, was the shop you got it from a giant concept store by any chance? the reason i ask is that i have found out this week that the giant concept stores are able to buy stock at 20% less than the average giant dealer. this means 1 of 2 things. 1: they can run them at rrp and make a buttload, or 2: they can run them at 20% off and still make full margin while making the normal giant dealer look like a rip off. the best thing to do is to try and find out the RRP of the bike and then base your buying off that. as long as you aren't paying more than RRP then you are doing ok, and anything below that is a good buy. you will always find shops that have bikes they are desperate to get rid of so will drop the price. just don't think of shops selling stuff at RRP as rip-offs. some of our kids bikes at work we run a bit above RRP because of the cost of freight. if we absorbed the cost of freight on them, by the time we take into account the cost of building them we would be better off not stocking them as we would be making a loss on them.

try reinstalling the game. you may be able to do it without deleting the actual save game. this is only based off the fact that my ps3 shat itself and sort of deleted gt5 off my hard drive (or corrupted it possibly) but the save game was fine. maybe do a google search on whether it can be done

dan, the shimano dynamo hubs are 6v, 3w output. not sure how these would match up with a phone charger, or how they would compare with the little solar panel. they come in various setups of spoke numbers and, disc brake, etc. they aren't that expensive either. the most expensive would retail at about $180 (cheapest about $60), plus the labour to lace it in and new spokes. you could probably get the hub cheaper online. on those rides you will find that at every stop any power point will be jammed full of power boards full of chargers. best option would be to buy a spare battery.