mad082

i haven't owned a skyline for a few years (and currently own a VT commodore) and i still post here.

why do so many people hate FWD cars? i'd hazard a guess that 95% of haters have never driven a decent front wheel drive and have probably only driven some crappy base model corolla or something like that. a decent fwd car is nice to drive. as many of you know, the missus has a SSS pulsar and even though it's 11 years old it still handles well, and compared to my mums corolla from the same year it feels a lot better. look at the lap times the hot hatches get around the topgear test track. some of them are pretty impressive. too many people just dismiss them because they can't do fully kebab spec drifts. there is too much misinformation out there, usually spouted by people who have no idea what they are talking about. as for a xr6 being scarey at 110kmh, seriously grow a pair. did it have aftermarket suspension and/or wheels? and what was the road like? if yes to wheels/suspensio then that may be part of the problem. hard suspension mixed with bigger wheels on a rough road will make any car, including a skyline, handle like shit. my sister in law's ex boyfriend has a xr6t that is lowered with bigger wheels and i've been through some twisty roads in it at speed and it felt pretty good. i also drive a vt wagon with 18's and crapped out stock suspension and poor wheel alignment (siezed tie rod on the drivers side so until i get around to heating it up to crack it it will have to stay the way it is) and even it isn't that bad. it isn't great, but it isn't terrible.

if the guy told them not to change the timing belt when asked then he is the one at fault, not the dealer. if you go to a tyre shop to get 2 new tyres and they tell you all 4 are down to the canvas and you say "no, just do 2" and then on the way home it rains and you spin off and crash, who would you blame? the tyre shop for only putting 2 tyres on or the dopey git who said not to replace all 4?

ash have you thought about getting a deep tissue massage on your shoulders? the guy upstairs at work is a myropractician. basically it's deep tissue massage. i got him to work on my back. hurt like hell but it helped.

do you mean a dynamo dan? as in hook lights up to it and the come on when the wheel turns? if so, yes i have. we have a bike at work with the shimano dynamo hub in the front wheel powering front and rear LED lights. you don't notice any resistance. you can pick the front of the bike up and spin the wheel and it still spins for ages. because they are able to use the whole hub as a dynamo they can have it create a much higher output with a lower resistance.

that's true too. you can use a pin to clear them, as well as adjust the angle of the jets

sorry virgin boy, you're wrong. the s2 have the ignitor built into the coils, hence why the coils aren't interchangable. s1 ecu will work in a s2 and vice versa. the engines themselves are the same, it's just some of the electronics have different plugs. easiest thing to do is just swap in the engine and use the existing coils, TPS and AFM. will make life much easier than changing the loom.

have you checked there is water in the tank? if yes, then either the pump is blocked, the wiring is dodgy or the pump is dead.

as you get older (and spend more time on here) you will start to realise that the turbo restrictions aren't that bad as there are plenty of idiots out there and the only ones who think they are stupid are the people who it stops for buying a turbo car to go and race every commodore they see (in this case you fall into this class). and just so you know, only get a natro skyline if you like them. don't get one expecting it to be a fast NA car as you will be disapointed when you get beaten in a traffic light grand prix by a commodore or falcon or magna. other than that, welcome to the forum.

i owned a 1.3L festiva. i know exactly what you are getting at. that thing was one of the most fun cars i've ever owned despite being the slowest. the reason being that you could flog the hell out of it everywhere and barely break the speed limit, and still getting great fuel economy.

i spy with my little eye something beginning with "cockhead"..... LOL

you could either get yellow jackets or splitfires or genuine nissan ones. yellow jacket will be the cheapest, followed by splitfires, with the nissan ones being the most expensive from memory. for the model number you need, a quick search on the site of an online seller will give you the part numbers you need.

also check the thermostat. that may be part of the issue. but as gotrice said, start with a bleed. make sure the heater is on and you use the bleed screw. and a new cap sounds like a good idea as well.

actually holden put the motor in to meet emissions, but don't let the truth get in the way of a good flaming.....

it's not an immediate issue with blocking off the bov, but it will shorten the life of your turbo, plus the fact that it increases the response time. my old 180sx had the stock bov on it and they are crap and do bugger all. i put an aftermarket bov on and it felt like a totally difference car on gear changes. so much less lag. you have to remember that by blocking off the bov you are making all the air in the cooler piping go backwards out of the turbo (and AFM). this means the turbo is slowing down dramatically, and the ecu is pumping extra fuel into the engine, so you increase your chances of it stalling when pulling up to an intersection as well as fouling the plugs.

contact newkleer on here. he makes sells them

mine could be better. i have a few holes in my teeth that i need to get fixed, but lack of health cover is holding me back. really can't afford to pay the dentists next holiday out of my own pocket (and i can't afford health cover right now either), but then again, health insurance companies pay bugger all of the cost and what it costs me to get it is probably about what it would save me. i also have a wisdom tooth that has come out at a slight angle that is pushing on the others, as well as it sits lower than the others. i've put up with these for a few years now and they don't bother me, but i keep an eye on them. my boss had a wisdom tooth taken out that had a big hole in it. then developed a dry socket. then the pain killers he was on destroyed his stomach lining.

you will be sucking crap from the bottom of the tank no matter what, it's just that when the fuel level is lower the conecntration of crap is higher, that said, if you run your tank low a few times in a row then you will have sucked up a fair bit of crap and most of it will end up in your fuel filter, so it won't be so much of an issue down the track. that said, everytime you fill up you would also stir up any crap at the bottom of the tank and to a lesser extent this also happens when you drive over rough roads.

do a search, this has been covered many times before.

depends on what state you are in as to what brand refinery that it comes from. for instance, in SE QLD most fuel will actually be from the BP refinery.

boost is the enemy of fuel economy. by the sounds of it o2 sensors won't help your economy much as your driving style is causing your poor economy.

plenty of factors to consider when looking at fuel economy. generally only use others economy as a rough guide as there are so many variables. here's a list of things to consider: - do you let the car idle to warm up? (an idling car will use a few litres per hour) - how long does the car take to warm up? (if more than a few mins when driving then get a new thermostat) - how much time do you spend sitting in traffic? - how hilly is it where you drive? - how often do you go into positive boost? - how much throttle do you apply at low rpm? (fuel economy has little to do with revs but throttle percentage. you can rev it out to 5000rpm using light throttle and get better economy than someone who only revs to 3000rpm but floors it to get there) you can check a few things to help get better economy. o2 sensors are a good place to start. also worth jacking the car up and spinning the wheels to make sure you don't have a sticking brake caliper (or hand brake) or damaged wheel bearing.

it's possibly in the foam pads that hold the window when it is down. i don't know how you'd fix it though

there are too many variables in that test to even prove that there was a change in power output on the cars.

as above, most likely pining which is either caused by too much timing or not enough fuel. could be a sign that the fuel pump is dying. another possibility is that the exhaust gasket is gone or there is a broken manifold stud