mad082

he probably put the vin number into the nissan fast program

get some grease and grease up everything you can (loosen bolts, grease up, then retighten. and grease between surfaces that clamp together, etc). this will reduce the noise.

the cost of building rims isn't much different than buying (can sometimes be more expensive. it will always be more expensive for a customer since they have to pay the labour as well), but buying them prebuilt saves you the hassle. as for dualies climbing better, that very much depends on the suspension setup. a decent trail or cross country bike will slimb wheel, especially if it has a rear shock with pro pedal, although a lot of cross country shocks have a lockout. the reason being that the more "bob" you get when climbing the more energy that the suspension is absorbing and the harder you have to work. something like a downhill bike will suck arse for climbing. not just because of the weight but because the suspension is too saggy. most of the stuff will transfer over to the yeti. may need some new cables though, and unfortunately this may also include the rear brake line. chain may also need to be altered. seat post is another possible issue, as with steerer tube length, but if you have a few spacers there to play with you may be ok. headset bearings are another thing to look at. final issue may be with the front derailleur and bottom bracket bearings. and yeah, 6" bikes are a good alrounder. the boss took the demo remedy 8 we have to a downhill race a few weeks back (with a few minor modifications, such as wider bars, DH tyres and single speed cranks with a chain device). he came 4th in his class (not the highest class, but one of the top classes) and was only about 2 seconds off first place and the 3 guys in front of him were all on full DH bikes. the other guy at work did the same on his gary fisher roscoe. he came 4th in his class as well (veterans class). they both beat a heap of guys on DH bikes and stirred some shit, which was their intention.

i can't find anything that says it won't

if it's a series 2 r33 then yes they will.

there is a dial to the right hand side of the vents, try turning that and see what happens. as for the cold air when turned to 32 degrees, firstly, is the car up to temp when you do it? if not then that is the problem, since it uses the coolant to heat up the air. might be worth also checking that the coolant lines are stilling running into the heater box (check for 2 hoses running through the firewall on the passenger side of the engine bay). these often get disconnected if the heater box starts to leak. finally, do a search on here for the air con diagnosis thread.

saw a diesel patrol today with a BOV. made me lol. especially the sound. sounded like someone yelling "psshew" out the window. for those that don't get why a diesel with a bov is funny, diesel engines don't have a thottle body to close, and therefor don't make vaccum when the accelerator isn't being pressed, so they have no way to open the bov unless you hook it up to a vaccum pump (which they use for the vaccum brake assist).

try nissan. get one from a n15 SSS. nice leather job. not the cheapest though at a few hundred dollars. when i needed a new gear knob for my 180sx i just went to the wreckers and got one off a standard pulsar. it was just a rubber one but did the job and was comfy and most importantly was a direct fit, not some universal thing with a rubber tube that goes over the thread that usually ends up coming loose.

depends on how much you want to spend. all you really need though is a 10w 30 semi synthetic oil, although you could use a basic mineral oil if you were strapped for cash, but i'd stick with the semi. if you want to go all out you could go a full synthetic, but to be honest, for a natro skyline i wouldn't bother. as for brand, that is really personal choice and everyone will have and opinion as to what is good. you could have a read through this thread for some opinions http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/22458-the-goods-on-oils/

yeah the remedy's are nice bikes. the boss has a 9.9 (the carbon one). it's nice to ride. he put a rockshox reverb seatpost (the hydraulic adjustable one) on it. they are cool i've seen very few titanium frames that don't flex. and while they are corrosion resistant, they suffer from metal fatigue much faster than steel or alloy (because of the flex, and it's more the welds that break than the actual tubing) so actually have a shorter life. also you will find that they make titanium springs for rear shocks. the boss's DH bike has one. as for the session 8, it's running boxxer RC forks and the rear shock is just some shit fox coil spring shock. he's going to replace it, possibly with a rockshox air shock. the boss has a session 88 team frame (same as used as the trek world dowhill team). he built it up with boxxer world cups, XX or XO (can't remember which). only thing letting it down is the wheels because he couldn't get the wheels he wanted. it weighs in at about 17kg. with lighter wheels it would be under 17kg. he's also got an intense m1.

it's running avid elixir brakes, mix of x7 and x9. as for trek being overpriced, i thought the same initially, but they have dropped their prices a bit recently. and after working on a lot more high end bikes i've found their attention to detail and overall design much better than a lot of other brands. i've had to fix a lot of other brands bikes over the past few months and some of the designs of stuff is just terrible. don't even get me started on titanium frames. they are like riding wet spaghetti

no a z32 ecu is the ecu from a z32 300zx.

working on general bike shop profits, if you drop your prices by 20% you have to DOUBLE the sales to make the same profit. that is based on overall profits though. some stuff if you dropped the price by 20% you'd have to sell much more again as the profit margin is only about 25%. as for going interstate for a bike, it isn't an interstate thing, it is simply an individual bike shop thing. some bike shops, especially at this time of the year will start specialling out stock to make way for the new stock which starts coming out soon. the suppliers also do this so some shops will buy at this time of the year to then sell cheap. anywho, one of the guys got his new bike today. it's one of these...

could be an issue with the crank angle sensor.

taping up the coils is a bandaid solution and doesn't fix the solution, just masks it. sometimes it doesn't do anything and the problem will remain. best thing to do is to get some new coils. this is probably also related to the other issue you had as well.

for the nistune you need a z32 ecu to install the daughterboard into, but if you send the ecu to nistune they will install if for you for a small fee, and some tuners will also install it for you as well.

lol, in all seriousness though, the amount of problems i've seen with the latest dura-ace, i wouldn't go any higher than ultegra in the shimano range (i'd still go a SRAM red bike, but wouldn't touch campagnolo). i'm looking at a gary fisher cronus (although it's really just a trek). it's only 105 (which i've got now and am more than happy with as it's just ultegra without the wank factor). we had a demo one at work and i took it for a ride and it's nice and stiff (that's what she said). it's also pretty light (just over 8kg). retails at $3000. i've ridden a few other carbon frame road bikes lately and some of them are too flexy. dan, that site has some pretty cheap prices. very few will be matched by your local bike shop because they are just above cost. while that is good for the customer, it hurts the bike industry more than it does good because 1: it hurts the local shops who actually have customer service , 2: makes the local shops look bad in the eyes of the customers because there are online shops selling stuff cheap because they can do it as an after hours business from some obscure place with bugger all overheads, while the shops have to pay big rents from prime locations, pay enough staff to provide good service as well as do repairs, etc. some of the online shops also have physical shops as well, and they are hurting themselves at the same time. some suppliers are also cutting off supply to certain online stores because they are coming to the realisation that the future of the bike industry isn't with online stores selling at bugger all profit. they are also slowly realising the same about chain stores (such as 99 bikes and gold cross). but that is a debate for another thread.

hoping to get a new bike when i get my tax back. going to get a carbon road bike (only got an alloy one now). good thing about where i'm working now is that i get to ride plenty of high end bikes, and i've been able to see just how shit some of the high end stuff is, and how good some of the high end stuff is. i have also found how good some of the cheaper stuff is, etc. there are quite a few major brands that i used to think were ok but now would touch.

work is about 65kms away, so no, i don't ride to work. did 46kms today, 650m of elevation gain, average of about 24kmh and it was fooking windy. on the flat where i normally sit on between 35 and 40kmh i was only sitting on about 27kmh.

you accidently the whole thing....... what doesn't it have?

i'm going to go do about 40kms in about an hours time

sweet bugger all in response because at when you are first opening the throttle there is bugger all exhaust gas, so even a small exhaust would have pretty much the same response.

is that the one with the personalised plates of 150dvs or something lame like that? lol. i've seen it around a few times. not sure if it's turbo though. think i saw it with P plates on it. and who at your work owns the maroon 33 with the LED tail lights? seems to be a bit of an import yard out there with your 33, the maroon one, ben's s14 and lee's supra, lol.

no they are different. for starters the turbo engines all run lower compression pistons. not sure of the other differences though.

what boost are you trying to run? do you have an aftermarket gauge to see what boost you are running? remember that the stock gauge doesn't read in psi and isn't that accurate. my guess is that you are trying to run too much boost and the ecu is cutting the power. even with the boost controller wound all the way down this is probably still the problem. first thing to do would be to get a gauge to see what the boost is doing.