mad082

definitely look at a nistune. will cost you less for the daughterboard, z32 ecu and a tune than it will to just buy a PFC and perform just as well.

as people have said, just start racking up the kms. 40kms seems to be the magic distance to start improving your fitness. shorter rides will pick up your fitness but rides of 40kms or more will really make a difference, and then build up to regular rides of 60kms. or slightly shorter rides with decent amount of climbing will be a good way to do it. a good way to keep track of this is either with a fancy cycle computer, such as one of the garmin edge range, or if you have an iphone or a phone running android you can get an app called runkeeper (there are others too). runkeeper is good as it logs your ride on google maps, and shows your elevation change (not 100% accurate, but close enough). it shows the stats as well as a graph like this one (from one of my rides a few weeks back) rides of about 40kms or more are good not only because of the amount of energy that you need, but because they get your legs used to pedalling for longer periods of time. 100kms on dead flat ground will actually hurt more than 40kms through the hills. as it is i find that i get the occasional cramp in my legs after 35kms or so (depending on what route i take), but i'm still getting used to the longer rides and they only last for a short amount of time. my rides are also somewhat hilly compared to some others rides. my 40kms rides generally have between 450 and 600m of elevation gain, while some of the group rides that the guys are work go on will be between 55 and 65kms with about 450m of elevation gain, yet one ride they do is 100kms and it only has 450m of elevation gain, so it is a somewhat flat ride. that said, the guys at work also did the noosa century ride. they did the 100 miles (there was also a shorter 100kms). it had something like 1400m of elevation gain and they averaged about 33km/h. they finished in the top 70, out of about 500 riders and were only about 20 mins behind the front group. they were both back at work the next day, lol. they do 50 to 60kms pretty much everday before work, and it's generally pretty fast paced. i don't think i'm fast enough yet to keep up with the bunch, but i'm working towards it. hope to go with them in the next few weeks on one of the easier rides. going with a bunch that is similar speed to you, or preferably a bit faster so you have to work a bit harder, is the best way to get more kms done without getting bored. at the moment i'm going by myself and i find it a bit boring, but it isn't so bad because there are quite a few hills on my regular ride so i spend a fair bit of time focusing on pacing myself. on the flats though it would be nice to have someone to talk to as well as to share the pacemaking so i get a bit of a break, especially since i've had a head wind on the return trip, so instead of sitting on around 40km/h on the flat i've been knocked down to about 30km/h. hill repeats are a good way to build up your fitness as well. you want to find a hill that is long and steady. i use a hill that is about 3kms long and gains about 100m in elevation. this takes a bit under 10 minutes to climb at a steady, repeatable pace. another hill i use is about 2.5kms long and gains about the same altitude (can be seen on the graph, starts just before the 5km mark, has a quick climb before a short drop before the main climb). you could use shorter, steeper hills, but you won't want them too short. need to be at least a few hundred metres long. then you simply ride up them in the hardest gear you can manage, roll back down and repeat. the longer hills have the advantage that you have a little bit longer to recover when rolling back down. if they are too long, or too steep then you won't want to ride them more than once or twice at a time and you lose motivation. the good thing about the hills i use is that 1 is about 5kms from home and the other about 4kms from work, and both rides to get there are relatively flat so the legs have time to warm up. something to keep in mind is that you need to eat on longer rides (of about 2 hours or more), as well as eat before hand (not immediately before, but a little bit before hand, or if going first thing in the morning a quick snack before you go). some gym goers won't eat before a workout. this doesn't work with cycling since it is over such a long period of time. you need to have energy in reserve before you go. a short ride of about 30 to 40 mins you can get away with not eating, but any longer and you need to. i also use a sports cordial when out on the road. i find it better than water. there are plenty of products out there that you can use. the guys are work use a BSC product and swear by it. we only started selling the stuff at work about a month after i started there and before that the other guys weren't using anything (just water) and they found the BSC stuff to make a difference in the recovery after the ride. they also BSC protein powder within 20 mins after a ride and find that this dramatically reduces soreness in the legs. i've started using it too and can say that it does help. you could use other brand stuff as well. you just have to make sure it has magnesium in it (i think magnesium oxide is the best, but i could be mixed up). i also think that the protein is a lean protein rather than a bulk muscle gain one. when i get a chance i will link to the products so you can see what's in it and find similar products available near you. also as people said, cycling knicks make a big difference, especially the better quality ones with asculpted, padded chamois. some have gel in them too. a tight fitting jersey helps a lot too as it cuts down wind resistance which is a major benefit if you happen to find yourself riding into a head wind. i don't care how silly people might think i look, the missus thinks i look hot in my kit with my shaved legs. she likes riding along behind me so she can check me out, lol. having the bike setup properly for you is advisable as well. seat position is one of the key factors.

Yeah i was surprised too. About time he got a good start

no they are pretty much all the major differences. does yours have 4 or 5 stud wheels? as for the engine conversion, putting a rb20 in would be easier than a 25, but the 25 is a better option. it has a stonger gearbox as well as much more low end torque. but it means some wiring changes (for example you have to dick around with the speedo sender as it uses an electronic one and the r32 uses a mechanical one, but there is a fair bit of info around on how to get around this).

normally i wouldn't say R&R at 10psi, but since it is running a r34 turbo then i'd say that it is most likely a contributing factor. it is probably on the limit, but on the colder days lately that is probably putting it over the edge. if winding down the boost by a little bit (best to do it in small increments rather than just dropping it back to stock boost, or drop it back to stock boost and then slowly start increasing the boost to see at what point the problem occurs) doesn't fix it, then i'd start looking at spark plugs and the ignitor module.

make sure you write "SAU rocks" on it in case it makes it on tv... cwatididthere

rb25 is worth the money 1 million %. a rb20 with a mildly upgraded turbo and ecu will put out the same sort of power you can get from a stock rb25, but unlike the rb25, won't be able to make full boost at about 2500rpm. it will be closer to 4000rpm, by which time someone with a rb25 will be a pair of tail lights off in the distance. my advice though, sell the natro and buy a turbo one. there are a few reasons for this, and price is one of them. another is to save you a heap of dicking around. a 3rd is because you can drive it before buying it to make sure the engine is decent. i should mention that i'm not a huge fan of the r32. don't like it's looks, and certainly don't like the rb20, so personally i'd sell it and buy a 33, but that's just me.

wonder if hamilton has a list of all the drivers and is slowly ticking them off as he crashes into them? probably throws a dart at the list before each race and whoever it hits is who he runs into. i'm guessing that once he gets all the people on the list ticked off then he will clip the wall, have parts of his car come off and then run into them. also reckon that webber will be 6th by the 2nd corner. will probably get as far back as about 8th, before then getting his shit together about 1/3 of the way into the race and then storming through the field to get onto, or close to, the podium. or redbull will give him wings like last year......

as for the initial post about how to remove the restriction from the exhaust, just simply cut cannon off and put a new one on with a 3" ID baffle pipe. it will probably be noticably quieter than what the fujitsubo one will be with the restrictor removed (since in the thread you linked to the guy said that it made his car noticably louder) and still flow just as well.

and you are running 33% more boost than 15psi, and i would hazard a guess that the restriction they have is not linear, but exponential. so factor in, lets say for arguments sake, 1.5psi of pressure drop simply from the drop in temperature, and about 1.5psi of drop from normal restriction of a decent flowing intercooler, at high rpm you are only losing around 1% of flow from your intercooler. my point is, i can pretty much garantee that you won't see all of that near 5psi drop magically disappear with a new intercooler. my guess is that you will still have about 3psi of difference. as for what i said about the wastegate taking the reading from the cold pipe, that is true for the r33. i wasn't aware that the r34 is different.

looking at the graph, i'd say that only a small percentage of the difference in pressure is due to restriction in the intercooler. the reason being that as airflow increases both the before and after pressure decreases at roughly the same rate. if it was a restriction the pressure before the turbo should increase while the pressure after it should decrease reletive to each other. you have to remember that the pressure after the intercooler will always be less than before the intercooler due to cooler air being more dense. depending on your before and after temps this could account for up to 10% of the drop you are seeing, and would defininately account for between 5 to 7% of the drop. oh and FYI, the stock setup actually runs the wastegate off the cold pipe. when i put my fmic on i cut the stock nipple off and welded it onto the hot pipe. this made it hold boost much more stable. was getting spiking with it running off the bov line.

possibly from the hub bearings, but could also be from the CV joints on the rear axles.

just curious, on the old forum, did you get notified when you got a warning? i had 1 warning on the old forum and i am sure that i got a message when it happened saying what i had done wrong, but since we have been on the new 3.0 forum i've gotten 2 warnings and only know the reason behind 1 of them, and that was only because it was mentioned in the thread i got it in that many of us got a warning, but i have no idea why i got the other 1, or even when. my point is, wouldn't it be a good idea to be notified when a warning is given so that we know what we did wrong and not to do it again? how else will people know when they have broken the rules? i certainly don't pay much attention to my warning level, and i'm sure many others don't (since some don't even know there is a warning level), so you could have people suddenly getting told they are getting a holiday for having too many warnings yet they don't even know that they have a warning. it would be like getting a letter in the mail saying you have lost your licence but having never been sent a fine for anything. it really makes the term "warning level" rather innaccurate. maybe it should be renamed "marks against your permanent record".

as i posted in his other thread about this (in the intro section), it will be the clutch. may just be an adjustment issue, but i'd say that it is knackered and the flywheel is most likely knackered as well. also if it was a 300zx clutch, from what i gather only the natro ones will fit, so it probably is no better than a stock sr20 clutch.

yes, yes it can. will just run a bit richer at light load (instead of the AFRs being around 15:1 it will be about 12:1). at heavier throttle % then it won't be any different as the ecu ignores it anyway

the ecu doesn't use the boost gauge for calculating fuel input, it uses the AFMs. i'd say that the vaccum line to the boost gauge is either split where it mounts to the plenum (common fault with the old hoses) or it has simply come off.

i more meant that if it says that you are supposed to change the coolant at a certian kms, or plugs, or belts, or gearbox of diff oils, etc then i do it. as for the 'tuning' thing, cars with EFI don't need tuning, and can't be tuned with a stock ecu anyway (which most of us know), so any mechanic that says they will 'tune' your car in a service is full of crap. same with dynos that charge you $80 for a 'dyno tune'. all they are going to do is a power run, or at most, bumping the timing up a degree or 2.

he may well have forgotten that he was asked, so i wouldn't really bother asking him. i'd be more inclined to just assume that he was and said no. there is a very good chance that he was asked, said no, but will tell you that he wasn't because he honestly doesn't remember being asked. as for DIY servicing, for a lot of people who do it themselves they would probably be better off getting it done professionally for the reason that more stuff would be done. a lot of people who simply change the oil every 5000kms would be neglecting other things that should be done. whenever i service my cars i look at ther service schedule in the manual to see what else needs to be done and do that as well as the usual oil change.

if revs are climbing and speed isn't then it is a clutch issue. there is a very good chance your flywheel is shagged, and continuing to drive it with the clutch slipping like it is is only making hte situation worse. it may be a clutch adjustment issue, but by the sounds of it you have probably screwed the clutch and flywheel, so you would need to replace both. i'd suggest getting a heavy duty clutch for a SR20. if you used a vg30 (300zx) clutch then it would've been one from a NA (since the turbo ones are bigger and won't fit from what i've read) it probably isn't holding up to the sudden increase in torque of the turbo engine and has probably contributed to your problem.

it's the router that is my problem. it randomly drops out at least once a day. sometimes more. all computers connected drop out at once.

i'm yet to hear of a dealership workshop that isn't full of douchebags who have pretty much no respect for the cars they work on. they get paid no matter what, unlike a smaller workshop who will probably have a lower hourly rate but will do the job right the first time because it costs them money out of their pocket if you take it back because the job wasn't done properly.

well my assumption was correct that something had fucked up and that is why it had to download multiple updates. it had deleted the GT5 install. thankfully my save game was still intact.

i reckon that even they wouldn't touch this story. statute of limitations probably ran out after 1 year from the incident happening. after that time there is zero that can be done about it even if mazda was in the wrong. there is no point furthering this discussion for this reason. there are plenty of other points that could be made, but if the statute of limitations has run out then you and your mate need to build a bridge and get over it. there isn't a court in the country that would hear this case, let alone find in your mates favour. bit hard to dig up solid evidence that shows that the timing belt was the cause of the engine failure and not a side effect a few years after it has been thrown in the bin.

well i'm up to update 6/6. i think my ps3 must've shat itself after a few failed attempts because, as i mentioned earlier, it went from being 1 380mb update to 6 updates, the first one being 608mb, which was the size of one back in december. the next update was about 380mb, followed by 3 around the 50mb range and then the final 380mb one. so obviously something went wrong. that said, playtv shat itself the other day and wouldn't load and after freezing a few times and restarting, when it finally did go in it had deleted about 2 weeks worth of shows (the most recent ones, totalling about 40gb). all up today, with all the failed attempts as well as the successful ones i've probably used up about 3gb of downloads. ended up having to turn off the firewall on the wireless router (still had the firewall on the modem turned on) to get it to download properly without stuffing up.

i got the system update fine, it's the GT5 update that isn't working. my wireless router likes kicking me off randomly (and frequently), so going to restart the router and hopefully that should make it work long enough to get the updates done