mad082

update failed again. so i have restarted the ps3 and am going to try one last time, but since i couldn't be arsed waiting round i'm just going to start it and then go for a ride and see if it is done when i get back in a few hours. if not then i'll just leave it for a few weeks until i next feel like sitting through a heap of failed update attempts.

well i'm attempting to play GT5 but i'm currently on my 4th attempt to download the update and it looks like it's about to fail as well. yep there it goes. i've probably wasted over 1gb of downloads today trying to update since it always gets to about 85% when it fails, and since it was a 380mb download (which has now turned into a 608mb download on the last attempt) i'm wasting even more data. good thing i have a good plan with plenty of data allocation and i don't use much. sony needs to make the download able to be paused and restarted so that if an error occurs you can simply continue from where you left off, like you can with torrents (and when download the games from the PS store), etc, especially since so many people have issues with downloading updates.

any mechanic with half a brain will be able to install a clutch for you even if they have never touched a skyline before. skyline clutches are a piece of piss to change compared to a lot of FWD cars. there is nothing special about skyline gearboxes that makes them any different to other cars (GTRs might be a little bit trickier, but the RWD ones are very simple). either way, the sooner you get it fixed the better, because if it is slipping, the more you drive it the more damage you are doing to the flywheel and the more chance you have of needing to replace it too. as for what type of clutch to put in, if you are using the car as a daily driver then i'd go a heavy organic (depending on your power output). do a search on (i think) jim berry clutches. plenty of people on here have used them with good results

or try looking in the for sale section. or ebay

there is probably a statute of limitations for this, and i daresay it ran out about 180,000kms ago. he should've been speaking to them from word go about it. he should've had them fix it, and he should've been able to easily show the service manager that it happened due to their lack of changing it. bit hard to walk in a few years later and ask them to pay for something that was fixed ages ago. as for the servicing costing $450 a hit, that doesn't suprise me for dealership servicing of a diesel.

unless it is only around 2.6L then the rb26 turbos will be WAY too small for a v12, unless you plan using 4 of them. you need to find turbos suited to the engine size you have. 2 rb25 turbos may possibly suit, but it depends on how high the engine revs.

exactly. and this is actually the best way to do it (granny it for the last few mins before you arrive at your destination) as this will let your brakes get decent airflow to cool down, as well as better airflow through the radiator.

which has more problems comes down to who you speak too. generally speaking they both have a few faults, but will generally be hassle free. i've put about 10,000kms on my VT since march and here is a list off all the work i've had to do to it, crytical stuff: -new leads and plugs (did that last week as the old leads were friggin old, possibly the originals, and arcing out. $65, which craps all over the cost of new coils for a skyline, LOL) -regassed the aircon and new dryer reciever (was original and only had 80% gas in it which was just enough that the aircon wouldn't cool. did this just after buying it and has been fine since) -new o2 sensors. 1 was just starting to play up. (again, possibly the original items. and also changed for the sake of fuel economy.) -new indicator stalk (relay inside was starting to tick and was driving me bonkers, new one cost about $20 on ebay) non-crytical stuff: -some dash bulbs -standard springs (was lowered, had typical commodore camber issue and was cheaper than a camber kit) -new fuel filter (did it just after i bought it for peace of mind) -new thermostat (as above, done just after buying it for peace of mind since i drive nearly 65kms to work everyday) i've also owned a falcon and had very little issues other than 2 head gaskets, but it was an EA so that says it all. owned a VX a few years back and it was also pretty reliable. only issue i ever had with it was the aircon compressor got a slight rattle to it (started after a bit of limiter bashing doing a burnout in a mates shed, LOL)

2 things, 1: may possibly be the IAC valve. this often causes a fluctuating idle. 2: the ideal location for a BOV is where the stock one is located. also, was the plumback pipe blocked up? it should also be noted that RB's don't like atmospheric BOVs that much. it usually tends to make them misbehave when you lift off due to the ecu dumping a heap of fuel in. this may be part of your problem. if you have the stock bov then put that back on and block off the aftermarket one. see if that solves the problem.

sounds like driving style is playing a bit of a part in it, and the stiff suspension may be playing a part if it isn't a smooth transition from flat to steep, mainly if you have to take it at an angle as the inside wheel probably has bugger all weight on it. a mate of mine had a ceffy where if you jacked up a front wheel the rear wheel on the same side would come off the ground it was so stiff. was it spinning both wheels, or just one? if both then it is a diff issue as it isn't engaging the LSD. not saying that the diff is shagged, but it is worn. to be honest, the tida should've had the most problems going up being fwd. all the weight would be over the rear wheels and the front wheels would be light. there is one intersection in town on a steep hill and if you try to take of with any sort of haste in a fwd it will spin the wheels. in a rwd car you can take off fast easily. my advice would be to simply idle up it with bugger all throttle. keeping it off boost will drastically reduce the chance of wheelspin and it will be putting out much less torque than the lexus would be. if it still whelspins then it is your suspension and your diff.

i think they have a shorter diff ratio than the turbos, so if you used the turbo diff (which should fit) then you will find that the car takes a little bit more to get off the line as well as won't accelerate quite as fast. also your speedo will be out.

the fully open figures were just an example. i'm not sure on the exact fully open temps. from what i gather the general running temp, is about 6 degrees higher than the opening temp. after doing a bit more research the lower temp is also designed to, in colder climates, be low enough that the ecu will trigger cold temp enrichment to take advantage of the colder intake temp and improved effectiveness of the intercooler. so there is some plausibility to it being designed for japans colder climate, but i think it was a bit of an after thought/side effect. they probably just fine tuned the temp for that but would've made a lower temp thermostat regardless, since they don't only have cold temps in japan, and their temps aren't that much lower than the southern states here, but their summers aren't as hot as ours.

firstly, if you have ever run a car with a faulty thermostat that isn't closing properly you will see that it can take a long time for the car to come up to temp (depending on the engine load). i've had a car with a thermostat not closing properly and on the highway it wouldn't go above the line above the C. as for the colder thermostat not letting the coolant stay in the engine long enough to absorb heat, on an application where there will be high load, it is going to spend most of it's time fully open, no matter whether it's the OEM one of a lower temp one. also the temps they are rated at are generally the opening temp, but they also have a temp at which they will be fully open. so if the stock one has a fully open temp of 88 degrees and the nismo one has a fully open temp of 80 degrees, and the engine gets to 89 degrees, it doesn't matter which thermostat is in there as they will both be fully open and flowing the same amount. another point i'd like to make is that the car i had that ran cool on the highway, the thermostat would neither close fully, nor open fully (when i tested it when i pulled it out). this resulted in it running pretty hot on hot days, so in that case, more flow would've helped and putting a new thermostat in helped the situation. also the fact that plenty of people who run the nismo thermostat have posted about how their engine runs cooler, even on track days. oh and i'll just point out that the N1 water pump actually pumps less than the stock one, but it is designed to run at higher rpm, so the flow rate balances out. for a street car the stock pump is a better option. for a track car the N1 pump is a better option.

i thought that by law all fuel had to be dyed so that it wasn't clear? i have had a fuel line come off my commodore running E10 and it was the same colour as normal unleaded (purple)

the cooler thermostat opens at a lower temp. this will start to reduce the overall operating temp the engine runs at because it won't be able to get to the initial higher operating temp to start with. the other thing you need to remember with a thermostat is that it isn't just open or closed. it can fluctuate as you drive, so if it opens up fully and then the temp of the coolant flowing through it cools a bit (meaning that either the engine is cooling down, or the coolant is flowing too fast to absorb heat) it will then start to close a little bit which will slow the flow of coolant down. unlike running no thermostat, even a fully opened thermostat still provides enough restriction to allow decent heat absorption. the fact that the lower temp thermostat stays open longer means that at temps where the OEM thermostat is closing so it can cool the engine more, which would also be good for when the engine is cooling down on shutdown. also if the rest of the cooling system isn't performing that well then the temp rating of the thermostat means less. you also have to remember that coolant isn't the only thing that cooling the engine. there is also oil, so an oil cooler would also be a good addition.

the nismo thermostat is designed for motorsport where the engine temps will be higher so you need it to fun cooler. whoever said that the nismo thermostat was designed for the japanese climate more so than the OEM one is an idiot, since the OEM was designed for the japanese climate as they weren't exported to many other countries. unless you are using your car as a track car the OEM is the best to use, especially on a day to day basis. if you use the nismo one on a road car you will most likely increase engine wear as well as increasing fuel consumption.

i also check for a silver camry, black evo 10, silver golf and a long list of other under cover cars that they use. i totally disagree. they shouldn't be swearing they should've been saying "oh darn" and "what a silly goose", LOL. if i was the cop it would've just been strings of swear words, not just the occasional swear word. i think you can also sort of tell from this thread they type of people who, when pulled over for a random stop, are generally polite, and those who probably get all defensive and start by saying "what'd you pull me over for? i ain't dun nuffin wrong? you're just picking on my coz i drive a hektic skyline" LOL

what brand is the old one? if it isn't a ryco then it will have a different part number. some brands put a ryco cross reference number on them, but some don't

so the revs increase but the speed doesn't? if so, definitely a clutch slip issue. a new clutch is your only real solution, but if it has been going on for a while then the flywheel might be in bad shape too. if it isn't a case of revs increasing but speed not, then your clutch is ok. if it is just that the car is gutless then it may be a fuel pump issue. if it sounds like it's misfiring, then it will be the coils, or possibly the ignitor pack (if you've changed the spark plugs then you can rule them out). as for the battery issue, could be 1 of 2 things. 1: something is continuing to draw charge (possibly something like a boot light). this can be checked with a multimeter. 2: the alternator is cactus. again, can be checked with a multimeter.

you will probably have to use some r34 parts to make it fit

you can't blame police for people having modified cars. sure they might have been showing no mercy, but if people didn't have illegal mods then they wouldn't have anything to defect. it's a bit of a chicken vs egg situation. as long as people are doing illegal mods to their cars then there will be police out to book them for it. also, don't forget that the cops usually have targets set by some pencil pusher that they have to meet or they get disciplined.

there is a chance that the neutral switch is partly causing the issue, mainly because the ecu has a different map for neutral compared to when it's in gear. the difference would be minimal i would've thought, but it may be part of the cause of the issue you are seeing. same goes for the speed sensor. it can cause the ecu to run different settings. it may also be an issue with the wiring to the AFM that is causing the issue, not the AFM itself. maybe check the AFM plug and the ecu harness plug to make sure all the wires are in there properly. i have also read on the pulsar forums where people have had issues with the AFM and found a bit of a solution to be to run a second earth to the AFM.

as above, make sure you have at least a cat back exhaust before you go upping the boost, but full turbo back exhaust is better. as to how much boost you can run before the ECU starts to throw a tantrum, it will be anywhere from 10psi to about 13psi. even if you only go up to 11psi you will see a decent gain in power.

GTR turbos are smaller than the GTS-t turbos since there are 2 of them. also the GTR use a T2 flange while the GTS-t use a T3 flange

you can certainly make your own boost controller, i did. it was just a copy of a turbotech one and cost me more than a turbotech one (but i needed it that day). as for what is boost spike, it is where the boost spikes to higher than what it is set at. this is generally only for a split second, not enough to do any damage.