mad082

yeah the chances of both being stuffed is pretty minimal, but if you can borrow some to try would be worth the few mins it takes to do it. might be worth checking that your bov's are closing properly and not leaking

oh not this shit again..... this has been asked many time. long story short, while it can be done, it will result in a car that is still illegal to drive (as it is registered as a turbo vehicle) and it will have about as much power as a ford festiva (and no i'm not joking, since the turbo motor runs lower compression than the natro, so once you take the turbo off it will much noticably less power than a stock natro). better off spending the money on a natro version, or saving the money and buying a cheap run around and saving the money until she is off her P's.

i like how the high beam lights on the VX drop down a little bit. i also prefer the clear style tail lights of the VX. i had a vx with a vt hsv style front bar on it. got the bar off a mate for $80 as it was damaged. did a bit of alterations to make it fit the vx headlights. it is my favourite of the HSV front bars, but they are hard to get now as everyone sells later model front bars to fit the earlier models which look like crap.

unless the mods are the same it's a pointless argument. just show him a video of a natro 34 and something like the HKS r33 drag car........

the grounding kit isn't worth paying for. if you think the stock grounding wires aren't up to the task muck up your own with wire from your local autoparts store. as for the shift kit, well it will increase the speed of the shifting, but it won't make it smoother. generally you end up with a more sudden, rougher shift. this also puts more stress on the drive shaft, etc. if the car is for everyday driving then i'd stick with the stock setup, and if it's not behaving that well then maybe look at getting it serviced by an automatics workshop.

generally a failing fuel pump should make it lean out, not run rich. and besides, all the fuel pump does is supply the fuel, the fuel pressure reg and injectors are what controls how much fuel makes it into the clyinders. my guess is that there is an issue with an injector or possibly even the fuel return line to the tank. i also wouldn't rule out the AFM just yet. it may be worth plugging in the scan tool when it is playing up and seeing what the voltage reading is. if it is drastically different between the 2 then one has an issue. it may also be that you have an intake leak somewhere, since that will cause the car to run rich.

all you want is a power run. don't bother using the word tuning or anything like that when speaking to them, since that is all they will really be doing anyway.

well put it this way, intercooler, exhaust, boost controller and air filter can all be had for similar money to what just an ecu and tune will (if you don't bother about wank factor and just get a cheaper exhaust, since they will still flow pretty much just as good, or if you go for a more expensive ecu), but will give you a similar, if not bigger, gain in power. generally, ecu will gain you about 10 to 20kw. exhaust, air filter, raising the boost and an intercooler will get you 30 to 40kw.

the S series cars should be the better handling cars due to them being the more sports car oriented range. the skylines are basically a sporty family car. i owned a 180sx and a r33 and i'd have to say that the s13 had a sharper feel to it. the r33 had a better ride thanks to plusher suspension. for an everyday comparison though, there isn't too much between them, and if built into a track car i think there would be even less.

vx are better than vt, especially the sedans. lights look better. also better motor (well same motor but more power thanks to a better ecu)

well since the z32 refers to the model of 300zx (in the same way the r32 refers to a r32 skyline) then yes, they are from a 300zx.

you may be right there phil, but does backing the timing off help with misfiring? i honestly don't know

that isn't a JGTC or GT class race car now is it? that is a group A race car. as was said earlier, all the JGTC and GT class GTR's are RWD, but that is because the rules specify that they must be RWD, and also a NA v8 from memory.

bad pinging you can hear. don't need any special equipment to hear bad pinging. if it was pinging at 11psi on the stock ecu then it was leaning out, or it had a buttload of timing to start with. at 11psi on the stock ecu it should be rich as hell and not that much timing. to put it into perspective, a good tune at that sort of boost level should gain you about 15 to 20kw, so the stock ecu should have plenty of safety margin. definately get it on a dyno ASAP to see what's going on.

i bought my vt wagon for $3550 with 18's, lowered and 2.5" exhaust. had 200,000kms on the clock though, but hasn't missed a beat in the 8000kms i've done in the past 4 months (other than the fuel line coming off the filter, but that was my fault)

my bad.

there are a few possible causes for the pinging. 1: leaning out, 2: too much timing, 3: too hot spark plugs. each of these has possible causes for it so it isn't such a simple problem to solve. if the car wasn't pinging before the ecu then that rules out a lot of possibilities such as it leaning out because of a bad fuel pump (not completely ruled out though) or too hot spark plugs. i'm guessing that you bought the ecu second hand and that it wasn't done specifically for your car (or simply sent the ecu off for a generic tune). the down side to this is that you aren't running the car at it's optimum settings. you may be maaking more power than you would with a proper tune, but this is at the expense of damage to your engine. this is because the timing may be too advanced for your engine (as you discovered) and/or the AFR's might be too lean, which may also have contributed to the pinging. it may well be that if you bought the ecu second hand that it was tuned for bigger injectors, so it is leaning out with your smaller injectors (if it was only tuned for slightly bigger injectors then it would still run, but not as good as it should, but you might not notice because to an extent leaner = more power. also if it was tuned on a car running cold plugs (such as heat range 7) and you have plugs that are heat range 5 then there will be much more heat in the cylinders. first thing you should do is get a timing light to see what you have backed the timing down to. you should also book it in for a dyno run. they will put a wideband o2 sensor in when they do it so they will see whether it is leaning out or not. might be worth also getting a run done with your stock ecu (if you still have it) to see how rich it was. if it wasn't too rich then you may have a fuel pump issue.

completely different kettle of fish. better seats, better interior, white dials, same leather steering wheel as the S2 r33, and not to mention a metric shit tonne more power. mine is putting out about 115hp at the wheels (has extractors and exhaust. tows my 3.6m tinny easily. will also give natro skylines a run for their money.

if it's pumping out a decent amount of raw fuel then you should definately get it looked at. could be a tune issue, or a mechanical/electrical issue causing it to use extra fuel. may be an issue with the AFM, injectors, fuel pressure reg, TPS or a few other things. best to try and suss out if there is something wrong before simply getting it tuned, because if something is starting to fail then it may get worse and then when you fix it the leaner tune could make it run too lean.

a regrind is almost the same as getting new cams. they simply grind the cam lobes down to a new profile. they can also weld the cams before grinding if they need extra material in a certain section. so you could actually get a stock cam reground to have the exact same profile as an aftermarket cam.

ok since my last answer was stupid, how about one that isn't. you go on about how illegal modified cars are. if you did know as much as you say then you would know that you can get engineers certificates to make mods legal, as well as getting tunes done that will pass emissions testing. there are traders on this forum that do them. secondly, you go on about how you are some guru at tuning cars, yet you had to go searching on how to make a BOV flutter? the simple way is to increase the spring tension so that the BOV doesn't open and let all the air out at once. or you can simply put a restrictor in the return pipe. or just block the bov off. all 3 options will work better than your idea, which won't work at all. the compressure surge makes the noise it does because the compressor wheel is spinning at tens of thousands of rpm and the air is travelling back through it against it's normal flow, while your compressor wheel won't be moving at all, and the air won't bounce backwards and fowards at all. it will just flow out the hole at the 90 degree bend. the only noise the compressor wheel will add is that it may make it whistle.

it really comes down to how you drive it. if you give it the beans on a regular basis then your economy will be much worse than someone doing the exact same trip as you but driving more sedately.

i can't see why the front seats wouldn't fit. if anything you may just need to change the rails, but i'd assume they are the same. only thing that i think would be different is that the coupe seats would have the lever on the back to allow the rear passenger to slide the seat fowards, which wouldn't make much difference in the sedan.

it is the handbrake light, so most likely means that you are low on brake fluid.

all the n16 pulsars (so from mid 2000 onwards) go back to a 1.8l motor (no sr20) and lose the sporty suspension so will feel more like a corolla in the handling department. and for a daily, i too would look at hail damaged cars. my commodore daily is far from perfect. it has a few noticable dents, but i don't care. it was one of the cheapest commodores on the market at the time and it was pretty much the cheapest with a safety cert. it also hasn't really missed a beat. if someone offered me a decent amount for my commodore i would sell it and buy another SSS. i only went with the commodore because for the driving i do (1hr 40 mins of pretty much all highway driving a day to and from work) i prefer the comfy seats and cruise control and automatic of the commodore. if it was round town driving i'd definately go back to the pulsar.... well actually i'd just get a scooter since gympie is pretty small. but then i'd probably just ride my treadly.