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mad082

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Everything posted by mad082

  1. Yeah the magna v6 requires the plenum to be removed to get to the rear bank (been there, done that). Copper plugs still last pretty well. In the long run they can actually work out more cost effective than irridium or platinum plugs. From memory I got about 50,000kms out of the ones in my Commodore, and only replaced them because I was chasing a misfire (that new plugs didn't fix)
  2. Spot on. No fuel = no bang = no heat. And even if you had the tiniest amount of residual fuel vapor in there, it would actually be so lean that that it wouldn't actually cause much heat, if it was even enough to ignite in the first place. You get to a point where leaning out doesn't get hotter, and temps start to drop. Think about it, if you have a big fire it heats up a big area, but lighting a match in the same area won't do squat.
  3. Cutting fuel is a safer fuel cut than cutting the ignition (which is why every car manufacturer does it). Cutting the fuel simply means the spark plug fires but it does nothing. Creates no heat or stress on anything. Cutting the ignition is bad for the turbo and exhaust due to the excess heat and pressure. The only real use for this type of ignition cut is if you want to build boost while banging on the limiter in neutral, such as in a drag car. As for whether it's genuine or not, does it really matter? From what I've read, the fakes still seem to work fine. As long as the price was reasonable then move on.
  4. Yeah have to agree with the fan having little to no effect on the water pump. If your engine maybe only have about the same power output as a hamster on a wheel then the fan clicking in would drastically slow the engine down and thus reduce the cooling. But since the engine has plenty of power to spin the fan, there is no real effect on cooling. and given that the viscous clutch fan rarely kicks in fully when the cooling system is working properly, it makes perfect sense why Nissan used a tried and tested, simple, reliable and relatively cheap fan system on their street cars
  5. Do a search for the thread about soldering the terminals of the afm. It may help with your problem
  6. Maybe he has a few hundred kg of stereo in the boot.....
  7. The bkr plugs should be fine for your car. If the 7 on the end of the ones you are fitting refers to the heat range then they are too cold for your engine. There isn't really a right and wrong plug for your car so to speak. There are ones that fit and ones that don't. And then some that will perform better than others.
  8. I have to get around to doing it to my Commodore at some point (when I could be bothered, along with finding the cause of the slight misfire it has). had a leaky pump for ages and had put some stuff in it that was supposed to slow/stop leaks. Basically it was a thick fluid. I finally got a new pump but didn't completely flush the system (just topped it up really), so on cold mornings the steering has a bit of a notch just off straight. Once it warms up it's fine. I did some googling and that's when I found out about flushing the system (which made sense, since the fluid is thinner when warm, and on really cold mornings it was much worse, to a point where on a sub zero morning I had no power steering the first time I tried to turn the wheel).
  9. Wd40 is only really a water dispersant and thin oil. It has very little in the way of actual lubricating properties. You can find some friction test videos on YouTube. If you search "friction master wd40" on YouTube there is a 2:36 long video of a test between protecta spray (which I've used and it's pretty good) and wd40. Protecta also have a video on YouTube doing the same test with more oils. I know the guy doing the protecta video and he told me about some other lubes that performed well on the test (almost to the level of protecta), but they didn't show them for obvious reasons. They were bicycle chain lubes though, so not much use for anything else. Fyi, I am in no way affiliated with protecta. And using some sort of grease or anti-seize paste when installing things certainly makes life easier in the long run.
  10. You can try replacing the fluid to help with cold temp steering. As fluid gets old and sludgey and is thicker than normal when cold. This means it isn't lubing the system as well. Draining the fluid and replacing it with fresh fluid can help.
  11. Italians don't like iceblocks?
  12. At your local exhaust shop
  13. There are many brands. Just go into any hardware or auto parts store and see what they sell. Loctite do one, as do many other big brands. We use one at work with graphite in it and it seems to work well (although it's a bit messy). I have a can of stuff somewhere that I got when I was working at an exhaust shop that we used to use there which worked well too. If I can find it I'll post up what it is.
  14. Get some decent penetrating spray lubricant. There's plenty out there on the market.
  15. I thought you only kept your no claim bonus for not at fault accidents only if you gave them details of the driver at fault. So if you walk out to your car and find it damaged and no-one saw it happen then it's not really a "not at fault" claim
  16. Blue shoots better flames
  17. I wouldn't have guessed that. I would've thought you'd be clearing close to 2m if you could dunk on a 10ft hoop (or even the 9.5 at school). unless you were just trying to scissor jump it, then 165 sounds more reasonable. I could jump 170 and not reach a 10ft hoop (I was just over 180cm in highschool)
  18. That's quite the vertical leap you have. You must've been awesome at high jump at school
  19. Do you ship to Australia for free? And what is your range of dragons like? I'd prefer a blue one
  20. That's the thing to remember when looking at insurance. Some companies will be cheaper, but they may not pay out as easily, or as much.
  21. I'd suggest using something a bit better than wd-40. That shit should be taken off the market
  22. You clearly need to watch more top gear
  23. +1 for myo over chiro. There is one upstairs from work. I've had days where I could barely walk properly from back pain and after 30 mins on the table I'm much better. It hurts like hell while I'm getting wailed on, but afterwards I feel much better
  24. As has been said, either sell it and buy a gt-t, or keep it and buy a gt-t as well. The cost of converting to turbo isn't worth it when you can buy a factory turbo model for about the same as a natro, which isn't that much more than the cost of converting everything to turbo spec
  25. You could still see 3 at the one spot and still have them all be the same car. Don't forget that in back to the future marty saw himself in the past. So you could go back or forwards in time and have lunch with yourself....
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