mad082

WhatThe f**k?

My sleep has gone to shit the past week or so. I can get to sleep ok, but then wake up anywhere from about midnight to 3am, then it takes up to 2 hours to get back to sleep. I think it was because my normal sleep pattern was disrupted by the tour de France.......

Legnum looks tough compared to the Volvo styling of the stagea...

Maybe that is why webber is getting out of f1, new cars going to be harder to get off the line......

Update: got a call today saying that a new ps3 had turned up for me. Will wait and see what model it is.

I've used dosbox in the past.I know that NFS 3 works in Windows xp. I had it on my work computer for a while. Was pretty heavy on resources though.

Yes. May require some drilling though

It wouldn't be hard to make that look at least a bit better yourself with just a can of touch up paint and some sandpaper

Is that 5 to 7 psi based off the stock gauge or did you end up fitting an aftermarket one? If you are going off the stock gauge, then that is your problem. It doesn't read in psi.

Does the car have an immobilizer at all? If it is playing up then it could cause the problem

To answer the questions in your second post, having neither of those connected should have no affect on the fuel pump.

2 things. First, take the new pads out and give them a light scuff on concrete. Then get some ispropyl alcohol or brake cleaner and give the rotor a clean. Then get some medium grit sandpaper and give the rotor a sand. You can start with a finer paper to take a layer off the rotor, then a more coarse paper to leave the rotor with a rough, gripy surface. Then just give it another quick clean.Then you need to bed the pads in. To do this, put it all back together and go for a ride. Get up to a reasonable speed then brake hard pretty much to a stop. Do this a handful of times. You should feel the brakes getting slightly better each time. There is also the chance that the brake fluid may benefit from being bled. Of course all of the above assumes that the brakes haven't been contaminated at all. In which case you need to clean the rotor as well as get some new pads. If you put new pads on a contaminated rotor they will just get contaminated as well and rarely can they be cleaned

Lol birds. You'd be surprised how many people do that. You can get some degreaser and put it in a spray bottle to carefully spray around the cranks and cassette (without getting any on the brakes), then scrub with an old paintbrush (or something similar), then just wash with carwash. Some people use truck wash and don't use degreaser. It can be damaging to paintwork though. There is also a product called muc off. You just spray it on, let it soak then hose it off. It it's safe for disc brakes, etc.

My guess is that the ecu isn't reading the narrowband output correctly (either the wideband isn't outputting the right voltage, or it isn't wired up properly) so it's just reverting to the standard mapping.

So did it blow a gasket before you replaced it? If so, then yeah it probably should've been machined to get rid of any imperfections. Plus you would need to flush the oil and water a few times to get all the crap out.

Don't forget to hook the exhaust up to the intake so that you get extra power

Given the price that complete engines can be had for, and how much work would be required for the head swap versus an engine swap, I'd go the engine swap

Yeah the only way you will know for sure what it is is to measure it

I leave the passenger side rear seat down all the time and when I want to put the bike in I just simply slide/roll it in back wheel first, lay it down, shut door and go. Makes getting it out easy too. Open boot, slide/roll bike out, shut boot. But yeah, laying the bike down on it's drive side increases the risk of bending the derailleur hanger, which can result in the derailleur ending up in the spokes when you shift into first gear, or just cause shifting issues.

Yes it can be removed, but it will be slower than a Hyundai excel. Not to mention that it still won't be legal to drive. Or you could buy a factory non turbo r33

Nistune shits all over greddy emanage in terms of what it can do. What are your goals for the car? If you plan on going big in the long run then you will want to be looking for different specs than if you are planning on keeping it relatively stock with only the usual mods and maybe a small turbo upgrade (and associated mods). But at the end of the day, you are best of speaking to the shop you are planning on having do the tune and see what they recommend. Any ecu is only as good as the person who tunes it

It depends on the workshop you take it to. Some will be more picky than others. Provided there aren't major oil leaks, things like brake pads and tyres are in good condition, and nothing stands out as being obviously dodgy then you shouldn't have to many problems. Wind your coilovers up to a reasonable height and turn your turbo timer off and pull the boost controller out to help things along as well. And finally, don't go in looking like a douche. For example, if you wear a flat brim cap at an angle, perhaps leave that at home.

Yeah and that is only the half life. a cup of coffee can affect the body for up to about 24 hours. So even the coffee you have before work can affect your sleep that night.

my mate who runs the place I bought it from said that the last one they had an issue with was just replaced without them even having to send the old one away (he then took the old one out to the local shooting range and blew it to pieces), so fingers crossed. he said mine faces the same fate if it gets replaced, lol.

Update: did a format in the old drive last night. Installed my games this morning. It was playing up a bit still. Restarted it and it wouldn't turn on. Lights came on but no-one was home. Wouldn't even boot in safe mode, etc. turns out I'd bought extended warranty when I bought the system and there was still about 2 years left, so it should get fixed/replaced for free.