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Everything posted by mad082
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good showing by Dan, and webber right on the 's heels. be interesting to see how he goes for the rest of the season with the stress taken off him to a certain extent.
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Cat temp sensor will have little to do with your issue. It is a common fault (faulty wiring or sensor). Most people get rid of the sensor.
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Don't forget that the attessa system isn't a true awd like the Subaru system. The attessa system only works when the rear wheels lose traction, and it is still rwd biased. So most of the time you are just lugging around extra weight. And for what it would cost to do the conversion, you could sell the gt4 and buy a gt-t and then mod it and have a much faster car.
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Wants Mines Ecu For R34 Gtt Rb25 Det
mad082 replied to rupinder1982's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
i think you just have to have a tuner that knows what they are doing with it. my mate was tuning one in his ceffy and he was showing me one day just how many maps the nistune has that you have to play with if you want to do it properly. from memory there was 8 or 10 (and they all overlap), as opposed to the 2 for the pfc (ignition and fuel) -
very much the poor man's GTR, since they aren't turbo, which makes them slower than the rwd version thanks to being heavier
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sure there is a warranty on all new parts, but if the part fails because it is faulty and you supplied the part to the mechanic to fit, then you have no warranty through the workshop. you have to take up the warranty claim with where you bought the item and then the workshop is fully within its rights to charge you again for fitting (which they are technically able to do if they supply the part as well, but most won't excercise this right).and yeah, many workshops increase the labour charge if you supply the parts. i know we do at work. and i've also had many instances where the customer has bought the parts from online and they were the wrong parts. one customer asked us what he needed so he could buy it online (and get the parts about 10% cheaper than what we would sell them for). we told him. he still bought the wrong part. we told him it was wrong, he sent it back and got the right part. except he hadn't listened to what we said and just ordered the same part again. we ended up getting in the parts to make it work, which ended up costing him more than what he was initially saving, and taking about 2 weeks longer than if we had got them for him. and how much profit a workshop decides to put on parts is purely up to them. if they want to put on bigger margins then that is purely their decision. in the same way that some workshops will charge hourly rates that are much higher than others. there are plenty of variables that they may be using to justify this, such as rent or even just having a wider range of tools or diagnostic equipment that they can use on your vehicle.
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you can't insure a car that isn't in your name. if you are driving it often then just get yourself put on as a nominated driver. the reason for putting yourself on her policy as a nominated driver is to avoid any possible excess fees if you ever have an accident. plenty of insurance companies have a higher excess for not nominated drivers (usually if under the age of 25). of course if you are driving her car and aren't a nominated driver then her insurance will still cover it, just at a higher excess as i said.
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Yeah you don't get a receipt for parts they bought and paid for, just your invoice from the workshop. Just like how if you buy your groceries from coles you don't also get a copy of their invoice from where they buy the stuff from. Most workshops will get stuff at trade price and then charge you a bit more for it, which they are entitled to do, just like any business that buys products from another company, wholesaler, importer out manufacturer will charge you more than what they paid. They are a business, they are there to make money, and they don't charge you for the time they spend ringing around for the parts or going to pick them up, so it's only reasonable to make a few dollars on products.
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if you want a quiet exhaust you could always take a trip to your local exhaust shop and ask them for some options. they could put some decent oval mufflers into your current system to make it quieter. they would be able to make something quieter than most off the shelf products, and they would still flow well and probably cost less. any exhaust shop that isn't run by a complete idiot should be able to do it
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have you actually tried to see if it works with your car? the version of conzult I have has a picture of a z32 come up when I open it (been a while since I looked at it, so not sure on exact version) and it worked fine for me. but yeah, there are other programs out there, such as ecutalk or datascan
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check the hazard lights button. if it isn't plugged in properly or its faulty then the indicators won't work.
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and there is bugger all difference between bkr and bcpr in body size. both have same thread size and pretty much the same body size (I think the bkr is something like 2mm taller from memory)
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I do that for 3 weeks when the tour de France is on......
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Nah wasn't you. Was a s1
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Yes an ecutalk will work with r33 and r34 skylines, but from memory it won't work with the r32 unless it has had a consult port installed. As for plugging in the laptop when buying a car, it's not really worth the trouble. You will be able to tell if there is a problem by driving it, and the consult will only really tell you if there is an electrical fault. You still need to look for any physical damage/wear and tear
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If you just want to see the first unread post in thread that you have already viewed then you can click on the left side of the thread title and it will take you to the first unread post. I'm on my phone at the moment so I can screen shot it for you, but you should see a dot in a column to the left of the thread title. If you hover your mouse over it it should say "go to first unread post", or something like that. Click on it
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There is a long way between the bottom of the top 10 and the podium though. I doubt any of the new cars will get to the top 5 anytime soon without it involving the front runners taking each other out.
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I don't see any of the new manufactures winning races anytime soon. I think the mercs will probably be the first to do it, followed by the volvos and then the Nissans (if they ever actually win, which I doubt with the current driver lineup)
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Followed a black 33 up the main street of gympie today. Blew a small amount of white smoke when he gave it a bit and didn't smell that healthy.
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Is the gearbox/neutral switch hooked up so it knows when it's in gear? I'm assuming by having the start switch hooked up you are meaning the neutral switch is earthed so it thinks it's in neutral all the time, which means it will be using a different map in the ecu than if it thought it was in gear. That may be contributing to the issue.
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a 32 4 door with bolt on flares and a white 33 gtst on project ave in noosa (see them drive past work all the time) and a black s2 33 at Bridgestone on eumundi noosa road (across the road from work) with plates 28wit
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if I was Webber I'd do a year at fez just simply to say that you drove for ferrari.
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I wasn't saying they didn't sell, just saying that they weren't aiming the console at serious games, but more the family market. if course they sold more, given how much cheaper the console is and how much more user friendly the games are for multiplayer and drunks, lol. and I own a wii (as well as a n64 and snes, ps2, ps3 and the missus has a sega master system)
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nintendo is a thing if the past in the serious game market. they are aiming at the family market and kids. they haven't been at the forefront of console games since the snes imho. n64 had ok gameplay with the whole 3d world's, but graphics were boxy.
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F1 these days is monotone compared to other racing categories. It's just like a game of chess at 300kmh.