mad082

As above, there are so many variables in fuel economy. If you let the car suit and idle for a while before driving then you will get worse economy (and it's not needed). While low revs help economy, low amounts of throttle help more. If you floor it but only rev to 3500rpm you will use more fuel than someone who revs to 4500rpm but uses light throttle. Also driving short trips will result in poor economy. There are mechanical issues that can cause poor fuel economy though. O2 sensor as already mention, dodgy thermostat (if the car doesn't come up to temp within about 5 mins if driving then get a new thermostat), dirty air flow meter, sticky brakes.

Never understood the point of tinting lights. Sure it may look cool (to you at least) but you are making your car harder to see at night, which is why it's illegal.

Worst case scenario, bolt it all back together and drive it to your local exhaust shop and have them do it. Will cost you a bit more, but it will be done

Ok so that's roughly 16l/100kms. Depending on how you drive then that's only slightly poor economy. If you like to give it a squirt and do a fair bit of driving in stop/start traffic then it isn't too bad. If you do plenty of highway driving then it is a bit crappy

Not in stripped form I wouldn't think

I'd say that it is suspension and steering geometry.

+1 for heat soak. The 34 cooler might be an ok upgrade for on the street, but they are rubbish for the track. Put it on a dyno and after a few runs power will start to drop substantially. That is where a fmic is an upgrade. It doesn't give you any more power, but it increases how long you have power.

do the same mods to a xr6t and they will be in the low 12's with a decent set of tyres. it's all well and good to say a car with mods will beat a stock car, but that goes both ways. a modified xr6t will just be a pair of tail lights off in the distance when racing a stock skyline.

gt starlet is far from fast. even when highly modded they aren't that fast. they'll be fun, but not that fast. you have to remember that they are only a 15 second car in standard form. with lots of mods you might get into the low 13's, or maybe high 12's, but it will start to drive like shit. having said that, i'd like a gt starlet as a daily.

nice looking v35 on the highway going past the golf course on the north side of gympie. i was one of the cyclists standing on the side of the road

probably going to drone like hell, even with a resonator. the turbo actually quietens down an engine, so while it would've been reasonable on the turbo, it will be loud on a natro. however if you find it too loud then you could go to an exhaust shop and have them fit a decent rear muffler (cannons are shit for actually reducing noise. an oval muffler is much better) or bigger resonator. or both, which is probably what it will need

stripped down there will be bugger all weight difference between the 2. the 32 may be a fraction lighter, but not much. it's only about 50kg in road going spec, so stripped down i'd say it would be less, given that some of the weight difference between a 32 and 33 is from the heavier rb25 engine, gearbox, etc, which would all be going into the 32 anyway. but the 33 has better suspension as said, and it may well be a bit more aero dynamic, so faster.

yep, all been said. it's illegal to run a non airbag wheel in your car. there are other possible legality issues with running the nardi wheel as well. not sure what the rules are in other states, but in QLD the minimum legal diameter of a steering wheel is 350mm. but there is a secondary rule that must be met. the diameter of a replacement steering wheel cannot be more than 25mm smaller than the standard wheel. so this means that if your car originally had a steering wheel that was 400mm in diameter, you can only legally put one in that is 375mm (25mm smaller). but if you car had a standard wheel that was 360mm, you could only go 10mm smaller down to 350mm.

how many litres are you calling a "full tank"? the tank is 65L. are you running it until the car simply runs out of fuel? are you running it until the fuel light comes on, cause there is roughly a 10L difference in amount of fuel used there. and if the light isn't coming on before you get fuel then there could be anywhere up to about 20L of difference in fuel used. so how about you start calculating your actual fuel economy in litres per 100kms driven, and then we can give you an indication of whether you are just getting the typically poor fuel economy that turbo skylines get, or whether you have something actually wrong.

of course a pump designed to run at 12v may not run that well. hell, a big turbo that is designed to run on large capacity engine isn't going to spool up like a champ when bolted into corolla. it's all about effeciency. sure the stock pump may run fine at 9v, but that is probably because of it's design. 9v might be enough to have it work efficiently. but something designed to work at only 12v may have more resistance in the internals to allow it to flow more, but that means that at 9v it isn't able to overcome this, so it doesn't work very well.

+1 for the above. as for how does it work, it works like any other aftermarket ecu. you put it in the car, take the car to get tuned, pick the car up and drive it. as for whether they are any good, the simple answer is yes. the long answer is that any aftermarket ecu is only as good as the person who tunes it.

+1 for modding your car. or selling it and buying a modded 33.

Yeah my bad. Saw the NA, mused the turbo straight after it, lol

Got any proof of this 7.7 second natro supra? cause I call bullshit. up until recently the turbo and supercharged engines were running those sorts of times, and that's with over 1000hp. there is no way you'll get that sort of power from a natro 2jz. sure they may be using a natro bottom end on the motors, but they will have a massive amount of boost going into it

How much fuel are you putting in? without that this thread is useless

can you set the turbo timer to zero seconds, so it just turns off straight away?

what ecu are you running? If stock, then that is why. you can't run them with the stock ecu. if you have an aftermarket ecu then you need to change the afm settings in the ecu. I think you need to change it too z32

Just a small issue I've noticed with the app. Threads start on post number 3. There are just 2 empty posts as 1 and 2.

I agree, but the biggest issue with weight discrepancies is if they aren't constant. You don't really want 1 side of the bar weighing a few kgs different to the other side.

very few people will be able to give you info on the angle of the butterfly. percentage of throttle yes, angle no. but having said that, you can have the throttle wide open at any point in the rev range. you can also have the throttle only open a little bit and be at redline. it all depends on the load. as for airflow, again that will only be info as the voltage of the airflow meter, not as an actual rate of airflow.