mad082

the mercs look good. the new hrt commodore doesn't look too bad. don't mind the redbull/888 cars either. the nissans look like arse.

don't bother with the r32 unless you want to go to the trouble of doing an engine conversion. while the rb20 will drift ok, the rb25 is much better for it because of the extra torque. so either go the s13 or the r33. r33 is a good option because they are cheap these days for a relatively tidy one.

I use nismo fluid for a more powerful, faster flash.....

http://corvette.com.au/performax/in_stock.asp Yeah petrol v8. 4000kg towing. Not that expensive for what they are when you compare them to what a new v8 landcruiser will cost you

It adjusts the aac at idle to help cope with the additional load on the engine. When revving it will revert back to the mapping

Then engine number may allow you to do so, with a lot of digging around on the internet

Go to supercheap and buy the cheapest spanner that will fit and then cut the ring end off and use the open end to tighten it.

It would be a pfc thing. They are actually pretty limited compared to a stock ecu. Pfc has 1 fuel map and 1 ignition nap. The stock ecu has about half a dozen maps.

I think the paint i got from Autobarn was mixed by mike or Justin. Wasn't Adam. I've had multiple paints from there, never had any issues with colour matching.

Pretty sure that Corvette queensland/performax here in gympie have a handful of tundras parked in their yard (and have had for quiet a while). I see.then everyday on my way to work. Edit: quick look on their website shows they have 3

I got some qm1 mixed at both my local Autobarn and paint shop. both were perfect matches

boosting on idle means a few issues are going on. firstly it depends on where the boost gauge it is getting it's reading from, as it may simply be an issue with gunk in the boost line resulting in it holding boost in the line. if it reads from the intercooler pipe then it will never see vaccum, but may be seeing positive boost on idle, which means that the timing is WAY out. essentially it has anti-lag going on because the timing is extremely retarded. if the boost gauge reads from the plenum (stock location), then it should read vaccum at idle (or zero if there is a major leak), but it would be very hard for it to see positive boost at idle as the throttle butterfly is closed and the engine only gets the air it needs to idle from a very small hole in the throttle body, and the IAC and AAC. you would also hear the turbo spooling a bit (depending on intake setup).

Ok, didn't realise the timing marks went to 30 degrees on those. As for introducing the lead, you just pull the coil pack out (leaving it plugged into the wiring harness), get an old ignition lead and plug it into the part of the coil that goes over the top of the spark plug, and the other end onto the spark plug. Then clip the timing light onto the lead and test the timing as normal. Also search to find out the correct procedure for putting the car into timing mode. for example, with a r33 you warm the car up, turn it off, unplug the tps and then start the car again. This is supposed to lock the timing at 15 degrees (it will normally fluctuate a small amount). Also make sure the car is warm when checking the timing, even if not locking into timing mode.

have you checked the intercooler hoses? sounds like you might have popped one off or have a split in one.

the car should run with the afm unplugged, but not very well. it may need some throttle to run, but it should run. from memory it won't rev through the full rev range though, as it will be in limp mode. it may simply stall if you unplug the afm while the car is running, but you should be able to get the car to start/run. as for how the engine can run without the ecu knowing how much air is going in, it still has the tps value and rpm and o2 sensor which it can use to estimate what is going on. i've unplugged the AFM on a few of my cars before and all have run well enough to drive with it disconnected.

number 1 cylinder is the front cyclinder. the wire loop sometimes gives false readings. the most reliable way to test the timing is to get an old fashioned ignition lead and remove the coil pack from number 1 and put the ignition lead between the coil and the spark plug and hook the timing light up to that. timing wise, i think the auto is supposed to be slightly different to the manual by a degree or 2 (it's been a long time since i looked it up). the manual is supposed to be about 15 degrees BTDC. if you are getting 35 degrees then i'm guessing that it's obviously no where near the timing marks on the crank pulley?

33 gts-t. much nicer to drive than the 32, as well as much more power, and it's more usable power. full boost by well under 3000rpm on the stock turbo

r33 (either silver or white) with gold wheels on the back of a tow truck in noosaville this arvo at about 2 or 3pm (maybe earlier, maybe later. all i know is that it was sometime after lunch)

does the turbo just need tightening up on the manifold? i had the turbo come loose on my 180sx, and because it was a metal gasket all i had to do was tighten it up and it never gave me any trouble again.

my experience with the r33 gts-t is that they feel slower than they are. this is because they are somewhat torquey for a 2.5L engine. so they make boost nice and low and pull well from low in the rev range. but they don't have that hard pull from low in the rev range like a larger NA engine. but at the same time, they don't get the rush from the turbo coming on song at a bit higher rev range like the rb20 or sr20 or even the ca18 does. those engines don't pull as hard down low, but give a nice rush of power when you get up in the rev range a bit, so they feel faster than they are. so long story short, the rb25det just gets shit done. unless you actually pay attention to how fast the speedo is moving, you don't realise just how fast they are accelerating and can be somewhat disappointed by the performance.

Can't answer all of those, but yes, things bolted to the chassis do increase rigidity. They aren't the old style rail chassis like old hot rods. So things like the windscreen are crucial parts of the chassis strength as the body is part of the chassis. As for the rear quarters, yes they are welded on. They can be cut of and replaced, but it's expensive and results will depend on the panel shop.

using a 30 crank with a 25 head has been discussed on this forum before (many years ago though). then general consesus was that, other than the cost, it would be a bad idea as the conrod length to crank length ratio wouldn't be very good, reducing torque and increasing the chance of breaking conrods, etc, because at 90 degrees ATDC the conrod is going to be at more of an angle than with the stock (longer) conrod, meaning it has much more sideways load on it

post in the "wanted to buy" section

gympie is tame compared to what is going on up in bundy. places like bundy that are flat always get devasted by floods because the water can flow so fast. gympie is hilly so the damage is minimal

sometimes it's better just just follow others and go with what is tried and tested