mad082

only flaw in that video (which i otherwise agree with) is that they tested it on a turbo vehicle with an intercooler. the intercooler negates to a very large extent the temp of the air that enters the air filter. the results on a NA will vary slightly, but not by a great deal.

good to hear you got it sorted. so it runs now?

i look foward to getting that phone call

take the spark plugs out, unplug the crank angle sensor (to stop the injectors firing) and turn the car over (may pay to put a rag over the spark plug valley to stop any fluid going everywhere). if fluid does come out, see whether it is fuel or coolant. if it is coolant, then you have a blown head gasket. if it is fuel then i'd say you have a shagged O ring on one of the injectors. did you replace them before you put the injectors back in?

i think there is about as much chance of that happening as me becoming his team mate.....

this is something for others to keep in mind if they have the same issue (since the OP may have solved his issue). the indicator stalk isn't the only thing that can cause the indicators to stop working. if you unplug the hazard switch the indicators won't work at all.

the standard thermostat is set to open at 82 degrees. anything up to about 90, or even 95 at worst case scenario is normal on a really hot day for the original cooling system, as it gets less effecient as it gets older and gets build up in the radiator. if you had a brand new thermostat and radiator then 82 to 85 degrees is normal.

i think the check engine light on the r34 usually means the coils are on the way out

82 degrees is normal. and definitely go standard. go genuine nissan. you can buy plenty of aftermarket ones with lower temps, but they are a waste of time and money, partly because they will make you use more fuel.

if it doesn't change speed when you change the speed of the fan then it may be the fan speed regulator that is shot.

we sat down and watched it at work (work in a bike shop for those that don't know). it was all summed up in the first 30 seconds by the first 4 questions. the rest was just a rehearsed public announcement really. at the end of the day, yes most of the people he was racing were also on the gear, but just not to the extent that he was. i don't think so many people would be so up in arms about lance if he hadn't been so arogant about it over the years. he's sued a few people for claiming he was a drug cheat, etc (which i dare say he is going to get sued over now). i've never been much of a fan of lance throughout his career. simply because of his personality. i wouldn't say i'm a "hater" though. but i'm not surprised he was a cheat. i think that in years to come other people will be found out to be cheats, some of which i am fans of, but their dominance is just too much at that high level to be clean. at the end of the day, the drugs come before the tests for them. as for that article, that was an interesting read. it was good to get a somewhat open opinion on the whole thing, rather than just the usual "you i take this and it's great"

yeah cable disc suck the big one. hydro are much better, but they still vary in quality. hayes suck the big one, avid and shimano are good, but each have their good and bad models. in the newer stuff, the mid to upper models are pretty darn good in both camps. the shimano xt and xtr are stupidly strong. and the new avid/SRAM XO trail brakes are just insane. my boss put some on his carbon trek remedy (upgraded from XX brakes) and they actually cause the steerer tube of the forks to creak in the crown of the forks. excellent for doing endos though......

starting without the TPS plugged in puts it into base idle mode. locks the AAC to a certain point and locks the timing at 15 degrees. it may also be worth getting a compression guage and testing the compression, just for arguments sake

i'd check to see what the stock pressure should be for your car. i was only guessing at the pressure, but running a cap with a higher pressure than stock is a bad thing in my opinion. it puts extra pressure on the rest of the cooling system and will make other things more prone to failure.

he is talking about in the same price bracket, and he is right. and if i won lotto, in my garage would be a new F6 sedan, and probably a commodore ute or wagon. if i won a stupid amount of money then i would have a lambo to go with it...... oh and i'd love to be on 55 to 60k a year. i'd also like a 3% per year pay rise too, but i don't get that.

can we add in a 50-70km bike ride? that's about the only thing i would have a chance of doing well in.

it may be over fuleing. try unplugging the afm and possibly the TPS as well. you may need to use a little throttle as well.

for the coolant to escape out the overflow it has to overcome the pressure of the cap, which is about 0.9bar from memory.

when i was saying that they are more expensive to buy, i was comparing vehicles of similar size. so to get a SUV with the same space inside as a commodore or falcon you would be up the price range a bit as you would be looking at things like a landcruiser or patrol, etc. where base models are more expensive than a base model commodore or falcon by a reasonable amount (at least the last time i looked, which i will admit is a little while ago, so things might've changed a bit). and they are also less practical in a day to day basis. things like parking in a shopping centre, etc. i think the biggest loss will be the lack of utes in the range. sure, the general ute owner can be a bit of a bogan these days, but the utes themselves are good. you get the practicality of the ute with the comfort and drive of a family sedan (and the performance).

try an aircon specialist. they may be able to source one, or at least something that will work.

oh god, here we go again......

get better tyres, ditch the coil overs for standard springs (softer suspension gives better weight transfer/grip). also "load" the car up. left foot on the brake, right foot on the gas (not floored, but enough to get a little bit of boost building) and then take your foot off the brake and floor it. oh and get a manual.

try a new battery, or just jump starting it.

there should be some screws in the wheel arches, some under the grill, and possibly under the headlights. you may also have to unbolt the reinforcement bar, which i think is 2 big bolts where it slides into the chassis rails. not sure if that is needed to be done on a GTR or not.

a few months ago i was having a coffee with an engineer from holden who had been working on the replacement for the VE commodore. he didn't give much away, lol. it will be a sad day for the average family car buyer if the commodore and falcon are scrapped. but i doubt it will be that simple. they will simply be replaced by an overseas model (from the states). there has already been plenty of speculation over the past 5 or 6 years about the falcon being expected to be replaced by a fwd model (such as the taurus). i know that i've got MOTOR magazines that are quite a few years old that have articles about it. i'm pretty sure the last one i bought had it in there and i haven't bought a car mag in at least 3 years. large family cars will always have an advantage over SUVs, given that to get a SUV with the same space as a family car will cost a lot more, and all general running costs will be higher with the SUV, from fuel economy to tyres. sure you can get euro cars cheaper these days, but they would still be more expensive than a base model commodore or falcon. and down the track, once they start to get up in mileage, i'd prefer the commodore or falcon. they are pretty trouble free even with high mileage. my VT just ticked over 260,000kms last week and i've put 60,000kms on it in the past 2 years without issue.