mad082

It should probably take a little bit longer than that, but these hot days may be causing it to come up to temp a bit quicker. I'm assuming that is while you are driving? In which case how you drive will also play a part. If that is 60 seconds of idling then unless it is super hot where you are, that is a little bit on the quick side as it takes longer when idling. I should add that it may just be that the gauge is just a little bit happy and there is nothing wrong with the cooling system. The gauge gets to the normal point from about 65 degrees and above

Most of the testosterone getting flung round is by you. You are the one getting super defensive and insisting we all know nothing unless we prove it. Hell you even made a thinly veiled threat of violence. I don't need to prove myself to someone with a superiority complex, so you feel free to continue on thinking i am just talking out my arse. And yes i would glady say any of this to your face.

Not that old. Really doubt you will find any shop with some in stock. Ebay would be your best bet.

if they were black then it may be that the coils are a bit weak, but it may be that it is running a bit rich. might be worth getting a dyno run done first (certainly cheaper than new coils)

somehow i don't think selling used underwear in vending machines will ever be cool outside of anywhere but japan. and the hate for commodores and how personal the NA defenders are taking this thread is extremely entertaining. to say that commodores in the drift scene "aren't much of a commodore" is stupid. is that because they've had so much work done to them? so all the pro drifters are just using stock model imports are they? no they are using equally modified vehicles. and generally, if something is easier to do something with, it is better. sure i could use the missus pulsar to tow a car on a trailer, but using a 4wd to tow it would be easier, and better. if i want to go mountain biking, sure i could take my road bike, but i would probably break it and it would be harder to control on the loose dirt. my mountain bike would handle the terrain easier, and better. but at the end of the day, you are claiming that a NA skyline will teach a new driver things a commodore or falcon won't. this is false. hell, i'll even use your own theory as to why a commodore or falcon would make a better car to learn in. they don't handle or drift as well. so since your theory is that it takes more skill to drift a NA skyline than a turbo one, it will take even more skill to do it in a commodore or falcon. so they should learn in that. you really need to hop down off your high horse and stop attacking people who disagree with your point of view. all of what you said is only your opinion and not fact. there is no hard evidence to say that drifting is better than other motorsport. just because it is fast growing just makes it popular, not better. otherwise we could say that the commodore is much better then the skyline because holden sells way more of them. it would also make the ADM r32 gtr one of the worst cars in australian history since they struggled to sell even 100 of them. to say that drifting is the cheapest for of motorsport is also totally false. it is harder on your car than going to track days. you have the added cost of extra tyres, etc. you can go to track days and not have to change tyres like when drifting, and you can have just as much fun without looking at times, etc. you can just go out and drive your car as fast as you can and have a good time. i'm not saying track days are better, just that drifting isn't the "best". as for a 4wd maverick being the best drifting i've ever seen, don't think that i've never seen any high level drifting. i've seen plenty. but when you see someone getting big angle and linking corners in a big 4wd with off road tyres, then you have to give credit when credit's due. the skill involved to do that compared to a high powered, low slung sports car is much higher, so you, as a great believer in praising people in cars that are harder to drift than the norm, should bow down in admiration.

yeah things will always be a bit different when you are talking air temps below freezing.

i didn't know he had one. i thought he was like a ken doll

if you were to put a multimeter on the terminals and then measure the voltage as you lift the sender up and down in the tank might be one way to check

I've only had 2 or 3 punctures in the last 3000+kms on my light weight tyres. Always when going over that loose gravel you sometimes get at intersections.

I never said i don't drift. Secondly, you need to pull your head in and stop being a keyboard warrior. You have taken a thread about whether na skylines are slow or not and turned it into a big argument about drifting. this thread was settled a long time ago by people posting rational posts starting that yes, compared to other p plate legal cars they aren't anything special. It doesn't matter whether you can drift them or not. Hell, some of the best drifting I've seen was done by a diesel ford maverick 4x4 with absolutely no mods. But it makes no difference. If i was a p plater with the restrictions these days i wouldn't bother looking at na skylines. There are cars that are faster and more fun to drive, and many of them are fwd. Despite what many p platers think, being able to be some fully hektic drifter isn't everything, and fwd cars can be very fun to drive. Finally, just because you drift your na skyline doesn't make you any more qualified to post in this thread than us. It doesn't make you more knowledgabke than us. those of us who have owned many cars and have an unbiased opinion on cars are better qualified to give opinions, even if you might not like what we say about the beloved skyline. Someone who has owned 1 or 2 cars in their time aren't really in a position to comment. I've owned a decent amount of cars (about 15 from memory) over the 14 years I've had my licence, from imports to v8s to little 4cyl runabouts, and had decent drives of many many more (either through work or mates/family members). I think I'm in a good position to give advice on what sort of car makes for a good daily that will suit a p plater and keep them happy. Just because you drift your n/a skyline, on the other hand, does not.

the last few pages of this thread bring the lulz. people compraing drifting a NA skyline to D1 in japan (where they all drift with cars making about 3 to 4 times what a NA skyline does). people using the ae86 as the posterboy for NA drifting, despite the fact that the majority of them have had engine swaps done. also despite the fact that most of the ae86 do very poorly at drifting because they handle like crap, but are common because they are/were a cheap rwd car made popular by a CARTOON!!!

the heater tap is to do with the coolant entering the heater unit. basically, when you turn on the heater, the tap opens and allows the warm coolant to enter the heater core. if the tap is dodgey then you will have coolant circulating through the core all the time, but this shouldn't affect the air temp too much unless the flap wasn't fully set to cold.

try changing the spark plugs (if you don't know how old they are), or if they aren't that old, try reducing the gap. if this helps with the issue a bit then you know it's the coils

gatorskins are a good tyre for preventing punctures. of course any tyre can get a puncture, but some are better than others at stopping them. at work we recommend the maxxis refuse tyres as a good everyday tyre because they are good for preventing flats, and cheaper than most of the conti tyres. on my road bike i run either michelin pro race 3 or 4 tyres, or bontrager R3 or R4. all of them are a light weight race tyre, but they have a higher thread count in the canvas, which helps a little bit. but they are still more prone to punctures than heavier tyres. i check them every few rides for cuts. the biggest killer for my tyres is glass. if i find cuts that go through the canvas (but thankfully haven't popped the tube) i will put a small patch on the inside of the tyre. if it is just a small cut in the tyre then i just use a drop of superglue to fill the hole. there are tubeless setups coming on the market for road bikes these days. i haven't had any experience with them yet (have plenty with mtb tubeless though). from what i have read though, they are pretty good, but i don't see them being the end of the tube.

takes me 45 to 50 mins to drive 63kms from gympie to noosa for work everyday....... i'd much prefer to do that than sit in traffic in brissy for 45 mins and only go half that distance.

to check the water pump, take the thermostat out, connect it all back together and then take off the top radiator hose. start the car. if the water pump is working it should start pumping out coolant. also, on a cold day, because the the temp of the coolant in the radiator is so cold, it will actually affect how much the thermostat opens. so it will take much longer for the radiator temp to come up and the lower hose to warm up. the colder air temp will also have a bit of a cooling effect on the engine just from flowing around the engine bay

without knowing what model pulsar it is, the r33 fuel level sender cleaning guide won't work for the pulsar as they work off a totally different design. it might be worth just pulling the sender out and checking the wiring though. but i'd say that either the gauge or the sender is dead

Could be a fuel pump issue. Could also be a wiring issue. It'd be worth checking that the loom is plugged into the ecu properly. Had a similar issues with a mates 33 when changing ecus. Just had to push the loom in a bit firmer and the issue went away. Have you checked fault codes?

If you've got the flap locked to cold only, then the reason you are only getting ambient air is that your aircon may be low on gas. when you turn the aircon on, can you hear the compressor kick in? Is the aircon properly cold when the engine is cold but gets warm once the engine does? if the compressor doesn't kick in then its probably low on gas. If the aircon starts off properly cold then heats up then its the heater tap.

Ok if you are of the slightly larger build (which if you're riding a XXL frame I'm not surprised. You must be at around 6'5 - 6'6), then definitely go a 700 x 30 or 32 tyre then. Something like the overdrive or maybe something from the michelin range. Just make sure it is a tyre that will inflate to about 80psi or so (most will). And them just make sure you check the pressure every few days (or before every ride if you aren't riding that often). The tyres will lose pressure faster when inflated to higher pressures, and as the pressure drops you will be more prone to pinch flats

There's a difference between putting the car on a dyno for a tune and going to dyno comps. And there it's 2 reasons why 86s are so popular in Japan. One is that they were made popular by a cartoon about drifting. The other is that they were a cheap rwd car. You will find that these days most people drifting them won't have the stock motor. You will also find that despite being popular, they are actually a pretty poor car to drift. And i think you will find that it takes as much skill, if not more, to drift a high powered car. For starters you will be entering corners at higher speeds. Secondly, being a bit too happy with the right foot is more likely to make you spin out.

If you're only going to be riding on the road, then get a slick. How skinny you want to go will depend a bit on the rim (how wide it is). The skinnier the faster you will go. As far as tyre choice, something like a maxxis refuse is a good everyday slick. They are pretty puncture proof without being super heavy. They go up to 700 x 28 (28 being the width). There are other tyres in the maxxis range that are a but wider while still being slick if need be. Something like the overdrive. They are both pretty cheap tyres while still being long lasting. There are cheaper tyres, but they may not last as long. It would be worth taking a trip to your local bike shop and seeing what they have. And take your bike along so they can see how skinny you can go on your rims

are you sure you had it connected to the right wire at the back of the dash? might be worth just accessing the wires at the ecu and hooking up to tacho wire there. a quick search should find you a pinout for the ecu wiring.

the stock bov should be fine for 12psi. you have to remember that it isn't just the spring pressure holding it shut against the pressure in the cooler pipe. it has a boost feed so the pressure on each side of the bov is the same. so while it is just the spring holding the bov shut, it isn't just the spring vs 12psi. it is the spring + 12psi vs 12psi. if you get what i mean, lol.

acera is generally 8 speed, deore is 9 speed. (pretty sure they are interchangable, but never tried. i know the 9 and 10 speed stuff isn't interchangable). there isn't much price difference between them these days. if the bike is 9 speed then shimano do a 9 speed alivio rear derailleur these days which is basically the deore mech from a few years back.