mad082

did you tip the oil in then check it straight away? cause you have to give the oil al ittle bit of time to drain down. from empty of the dipstick to full should be about 1L and when you initially filled the oil, if you didn't run the engine before checking the level then it would be lower once you have run it and filled the oil filter with oil. as long as the car doesn't continue to lose oil then there isn't that much to worry about.

hahaha, yeah cause the fact that it is on the restricted list is the main reason why very few P platers would look at buying a car for 190k as their first car........

probably just doesn't work cause it's probably never been serviced

Yes it will bolt up to the engine. Not sure about the tailshaft, but you may be able to use turbo one (not certain)

Ok, so ignoring your poor English, i think i get what you're saying. It can matter if the engine has higher mileage. It depends on whether it's had a hard life. Most people will usually be a bit reluctanct to buy a car with very high mileage, but if it's only a bit higher than normal it won't be much of an issue if it runs ok. Having said all that, while it's good to have a car with a nice body, it's always good to have an engine in good condition. No point having a car that looks good if it runs like crap and breaks down a lot.

Turbo diesels are generally excluded from the performance car regulations

If you get the lock number off the lock and go to a decent locksmith, they should be able to cut you a key to suit your current locks

I found it mildly amusing that the selfies thread lasted less time than a similar thread in wasteland. So i tried the hydration stuff i was given. doesn't have much of a taste to it. seemed to do the job ok though. It wasn't that hot this morning and i want pushing too hard (did up the biggest hills though) and after 2 hours i still had about half a bottle of water left

I've been using the bsc recovery protein after my rides too. Ran out for a few weeks and just got some more and noticed a big difference in my recovery times. Can ride the following day and feel pretty fresh. It helps when i ride before work too (given that i will get up at 4:30am to do the bunch ride before work and then won't get home again till about 6:30 at night and won't get to bed till about 10pm). It's not a low carb protein powder like some, which i think helps.

crash statistics would be slightly skewed for P platers as a lot of single car accidents involving them wouldn't be reported (given that insurance excess would often cost more than the repairs)

do many of you guys use hydration products while excercising? lately i've found that i'm going through 2 x 600ml bottles of water in about 90 to 110 mins of excercise (in my case, cycling). i never used to go through quite as much water oon a ride i had been using this in the past (ran out a few weeks back) http://www.bodyscience.com.au/shop/Fuel-Series-Advanced-Sports-Drink-500g.html we sell it at work, so i get it cheap (but we are out of stock at the moment, otherwise i wouldn't have run out. i've found it good, and i probably drank a bit less when i was using it. i only used it on rides over an hour though. i had been looking at other stuff (including other stuff we also sell), but the most of the ones i looked at didn't have magnesium in them, and were mostly just electrolyte drinks that contained no energy. i'm 6'3 and weigh 72kg and i'm not trying to bulk up or lose weight, just want to be able to ride faster for longer, so carbs and energy in the mix don't bother me, especially since i find it nearly impossible to eat while on a ride without stopping for a few mins to cool down (hard to chew and swallow while breathing heavily). i was fixing a friends bike the other day and asked her what she used and she told me she uses a product where you can customise the product to suit your needs (adjust the amount of caffine, protein, flavour, amino acids, electrolytes and carbs). they also do pre-set formulas. she also very kindly gave me what she refered to as "a small amount left in the packet" (which turned out to be about 1/3 full and will last me quite a while). i'm yet to use it (will try it out tomorrow morning) but i gave it a taste and it tastes alright, and i thought i'd post up here about it for anyone who is interested. take it or leave it. for anyone interested, the site for the stuff i've been given to try is http://www.infinitnutrition.com.au/ (i'm not affiliated with this product in any way) i would also like to know what anyone else is using and how they find it.

you would be better off buying a second hand cluster and using that.

there is nothing wrong with the aussie 6's. i've owned a few over the years and they are nice to drive, go well and are cheap to run/maintain. i currently have a vt wagon that i drive 130kms a day to and from work. it's about to click over 260,000kms. i've done 60,000kms in the 2 years i've owned it. hasn't missed a beat other than the aircon needing regassing, and when i busted a clip on the fuel filter (my fault not the cars)

maybe they just clicked the wrong button. or the fact that the r34 autos are a tiptronic/semi automatic and some people get a bit excited when listing their car

given how many P platers i see in imports doing stupid things these days, i can see where the authorities are coming from. especially since the rise in popularity of drifting. more and more young guys (mostly) are buying clapped out imports and dropping them as low as they can (which makes them handle like arse on anything other than the smoothest road), and going out doing skids. most P platers like to pretend that this doesn't happen (even if they are one of the people doing it) and seem to have some sort of twisted view that they are just having a bit of fun and not hurting anyone and the police, etc are overreacting. at the end of the day, if you drive sensibly then you don't have anything to worry about from the police.

That is on the assumption that he doesn't get the first punch in and put you down like a bag if spuds. Violence is the option for people who like to act first and then think about it later when their loved ones are watching them get taken away in the cop car.

Actually you are mistaken. There is actually no such thing as negative calorie foods, despite what the health gurus like to say. Generally speaking, about 5 to 15% of our daily caloric intake is wasted on digestion. The highest burning substance is protein at about 20 to 25%. That means that if you eat 100 calories worth of protein, it will take 20 to 25 calories to digest it. Celery on the other hand has very little nutritional value, and contains cellulose (which the body can't digest), so it takes very little energy to digest (and chewing it takes bugger all energy either, something like 10 to 15 calories per hour). So if you eat a stalk of celery (containing about 8 calories), you will only burn off 1 or 2 of those calories in the process,

i think you mean GTT as there is no r34 GTST. enough of me being picky though. about 4 years ago i paid $350 for a set of 4 17" r34 wheels with near new tyres. so that gives you something to work off for price. had the tyres been more worn out, i would've paid less.

some funny posts in here, but also some stupid ones. people whinging about the trade in values, what do yo expect? they are a business. they aren't going to pay you market value for a car and then sell it for $50 more. they generally have someone spend a reasonable amount of time cleaning the car, checking it over, etc. this costs money, even if it's just a member of staff. plus they have to offer waranties these days on all cars they sell. so of course they are going to put the price up a bit to cover any possible issues. then there is the fact that there is a good chance that the salesman is going to spend a fair amount of time trying to sell the car, and then doing all the paperwork for it. so they have to make enough from the car to cover all the time spent on it (averaged out of course, as some cars will sell quicker than others). plus the running costs of the car yard (electricity, rent, etc, and any interest they may pay on finance they have on the stock in the yard that they have bought). having said that though, a fella at work got a great trade in price on is ford courier ute. about double what he was planning on selling it for privately. when he told me how much they offered i told him that i hope he signed the contract before they changed their minds, lol. as for paying cash to get a lower price, generally this helps get a lower price if it saves them any fees from other transaction types (not much these days), or if they are going to dodge it through the books (much more common a few decades ago). but generally what gets you a better price is the phrase "cash, no trade". if you aren't trading in a car then you will often get a better price as they don't have to go through the hassle offloading another car. the funny thing about the "can you do it any cheaper if i pay cash" one is that we get it at work (not selling cars), and then people will put out their eftpos card and think that is the same as paying cash. sorry folks, it isn't. we still have to pay a small amount of fees on an eftpos transaction, and originally that whole point of cheaper for cash was so people could dodge the figures. hard to do that with an eftpos transaction record. but these days there isn't much point dodging the books, especially if you plan on trying to sell the business at any point in the future. bit hard to get someone to believe you if you say that while the figures may show that the business is struggling, you are actually taking a heap of cashies. what you saved in tax you will more than lose in the value of the business. but i've gone a bit off topic. to anyone that gets the "what's your best price?" messages, simply reply back with a higher price than you are advertising it for. when they then respond saying "that's higher than your asking price" you can say "that's the best price for me"

The stock airbox has a snorkel that takes cold air from the front of the engine bay. And the.performance gains from a cai on modern cars is generally bugger all as the stock airboxes are reasonably well designed. More often than not the gains are a bit of a placebo effect. It sounds different and that can be enough to make you think you are accelerating faster

That's one of the more stupid things I've read on this forum. Done sensibly there is nothing wrong with cleaning the engine bay. If anything, it can save you from any damage. On a dirty engine it is hard to tell if you have an oil leak.

i don't think there was a need to make 2 threads

pull out the coilpack valley cover and if you have access to a compressor with an air gun, blow the water out. or just use tissues to dry it out, then leave the cover off for a few days to allow the moisture to escape. you may also need to let the engine run for a bit (or take it for a drive) once you have dried as much of the water out as you can to evapourate the rest.

the stock airbox has a CAI feed.......

gunmetal r35 gtr coming out of venture drive in noosaville at about lunch time today.