mad082

there is often a flat spot there when the vct kicks in, but it could also be a spark issue (which would cause the noise). what type plugs are you running, and what gap and how old are they?

and what mods did the sr20's have? most were probably stock ecu, stock turbo and just running 15psi. i have a few mates with stock sr20's running around 185kw. they are an untouched motor. stock ecu, stock turbo, stock manifold. all they have is a turbo back exhaust and a fmic and more boost. i'm not saying that the rb20 is a bad motor, i'm just saying it's not the best of the 2.

power wise a bush bearing will be about the same as a ball bearing. response wise the ball bearing will spool quicker.

no, the timing shouldn't alter anything. the only thing i could think of is either the injectors have been upgraded (or are dirty and leaking), or the fuel pressure reg has been changed (or it is stuffed).

i would have it running from a boost only source (before the throttle body). i would also run it from before the intercooler so that you don't have as much spiking on cold nights. if you run it from after the cooler on a cold night the pressure before the cooler may be a few psi higher that what you think it is, which means more chance of the turbo letting go (if it is stock). i would also recommend running the boost gauge from the same spot. you won't see vacuum but you will know exactly what pressure the turbo is running at. if you have it from the plenum you don't really know what pressure the turbo is running at. you only know how much is getting to the motor. the intercooler may be adding 1 or 2 psi restriction.

if the interface was reading those temps then the sensors are probably fine. it may be that the thermostat needs replacing. but it normally does take the car longer to heat up when it is idling than when driving. as for running rich, you may have a few things going on. you may have a vacuum leak which is causing it to run richer, or your afm may be dirty and not registering the correct amount of air. have you done a fault code check to make sure there sn't an error causing it to run rich?

if you go an adjustable recirculation bov you can stiffen it right up so it will flutter under low and medium throttle applications. then just use a pod filter and you will be able to hear it easily.

well the 33 is quicker straight out of the box than a 32. so any mod you do to a 32 is going to be the same as doing it to a 33, if not better ,so i don't think that is possible. anything you do turbo wise to a 32 makes it more of a lag monster. the 32's are a bit laggy to start with, so a 33 with a big turbo is much more street use friendly than a 32 with a big turbo. i have been in a 32 with a t71 on it. came on boost at 6000rpm. with a pfc and at 16psi it made 10hp more than my stock rb25.

+1. if rb25 turbos weren't ball bearing then rb20 turbos definately wouldn't be ball bearing.

there are websites that can give you approximate answers. you put in vehicle weight and time and it will give you an estimated hp at the wheels.

i had boost spiking after my fmic install. i put the nipple in the pipe from the turbo to the cooler. got rid of it completely.

the most power i have seen out of a stock bottom end sr20 is 508hp. it is in my mates stanza. has run a best of 10.5 @ 137mph and it's still manual. but that is running on c16 race fuel. uses stock nissan head gasket though. revs to 9000rpm (doesn't come on boost till about 6000rpm). at a test and tune a few weeks back it lived up to the sr name and shat a rocker arm. in his last car he had a stock sr20 in a mitsubishi sigma and ran a 12.56. it was running stock ecu, turbo at 16psi. the sigma weighed about the same as a silvia. i have another mate with a built sr20. spent bucket loads of money on it and it makes 290kw. it has only run a best o 11.9 i think. he doesn't drive it much. the rb20 may make 7kw more than the sr20 (only the skyline rb20, the cefiro rb20 makes the same power as a sr20) but it has less torque. if you want 250kw in a 180 or a r32 you are best of throwing the motor away and putting a rb25 or 26 in it. it will cost you less than building a 2L with that sort of power and it will be 10 times more drivable. it also comes down to what you want to do. if you want more of a drag car go a GTiR. the motor has more power (thanks to quad throttle bodies and a bigger turbo) than a 180, and 4wd so it will launchmuch harder. if you want to drift then take your pick of either skyline or 180. i would say choose between a r33 or 180. the r32 aren't much lighter than a 33 (about 5%) and have about 15% less power. the rb25 comes on boost much earlier (stock turbo will hit 14psi by under 3000rpm) so it is a bit better for everyday driving, and means that if you do upgrade the turbo it won't become as much of a lag monster.

spotted a series 2 r33 4 door lapping the main street of gympie.

spotted a bunch of stooges in a r34 4 door last night at aspley. number plate bal14. had east coast custom stickers on it (they probably did the paint job that looks like some kid has gotten a few cans of grey and black spray paint and graphitti'd it)

ok, thought so but wasnt sure.

i had a look through the manual for the factory jumper settings but could only find the ones for how the emu comes out of the factory. i couldn't find any for the skyline.

the stock ecu can't be tuned without remapping it. if you take it to any random workshop with a dyno and ask them to tune it, there is about a 90% chance all they will do is a power run, and just have a look at the afr's. they probably won't even pop the bonnet.

does anyone know what jumper have to be changed to run it on a series 1.5 r33? it has the series 2 motor so i know i will have to change jumper 8 to 12v, but is there anything else that has to be changed? the main ones i need help with are: 10 (which is the second afm input). it is default set to gtr setting. the other setting is vtec out. do i leave it as gtr or set it to open? 17 (which is frequency output / vtm output). do leave it as karman output? everything else i m fine with. i just want to get a second opinion on these before i plug it all in.

silvias have the same thing. you can't change it. it isn't a limiter, just a warning beeper.

now all he has to do is change his name a few times

the first time i drove an auto i had had my licence for about 2 years. i didn't hit the brakes with my left foot. you are just unco. i moved my foot out of habit to where the clutch pedal would be, but didn't touch the brake.

the fact that you do short trips doesn't help. try getting a new o2 sensor. it may also be that your water temp sensor is dodgy as well so it is constantly running on cold start enrichment even when it is warm, or your thermostat may be a bit dodgy and making the car run cooler, which has a similar effect. also where you live can make a difference too. where i live is hilly, so that means you will use more fuel than somewhere that is flat.

i only live about 3km from work, so the car would only just come off cold start enrichment by the time i got to work. on the highway i would get about 10L/100kms.

i used to get about 250kms to about 45L. how many litres are you classing as a tank? put it into litres per 100kms. i was getting around 17, but i am a bit of a lead foot.

that torque curve is pretty good. i will post up the one from my r33. it is about as flat (well it is dead flat down low, but then tapers off). not bad for stock ecu (and no it wasn't remapped). the torque curve of my last magna (i know it's only NA) only varied by 3 lines on the printer (not lines of the dyno graph, but dot width of the printer line, so about 1mm overall) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=38571 (won't post as a pic, so here's the link)