mad082

i have driven both a NA sr20 and turbo sr20 powered cars. the turbo was running 9psi, pod and exhaust. the NA was running k&n panel filter, advanced timing and full exhaust. out of slow corners (2000rpm in second, just cruising round town) the na would pull away slightly till about 4000rpm when you would be wainting for the throw back in the seat that the turbo gave you the NA did still have a kick at around 5k thanks to the extractors, but not as much as the turbo. if it was rolling start from around 3500rpm then the NA would only pull away for a second before it was easily reeled in by the turbo. now r33s are slightly different since they come into boost much earlier than an sr20, so the performance side of it leans much more towards the turbo. but that said, for an everyday driver with a bit of thrashing a NA is going to be cheaper on the pocket. not chance of turbo letting go and doing other damage. but then it is easier to get performance gains out of the turbo. if a NA was built to put out the same power as a turbo then it would probably be more laggy than the turbo. i would personally go the turbo, but that isn't just for the performance, but the noise, and whole package that goes with it.

in the vid it is rick kelly driving, so what do you expect. there isn't a ford driver for him to punch off the road to make him look better

1 person kicked off already. took the top corner a bit too fast and lost it. the roadcraft dude said he did it on purpose (even though he didn't) and he got booted.

and then pay tuning on top

does anyone know what are the flanges on the xr6 turbo? my mate has a dying bearing in his r33 and get get a brand new xr6 turbo from ford for $900 and is looking at doing that, but we are just trying to find out what flanges they are. i said he should go a slide highflow but it appears as if slide isn't making them anymore.

funny how they said it to a 4 cylinder ford as well. and it should be noted that the only v8's that the gtr was racing were the commodores. the fords they were racing (and sometimes being beaten by were the sierra, of which peter brock raced while he was fueding with holden)

it makes giant paper planes

i'd get a r34 gtr m-spec, rip out the rb26 and put a N/A ca18 with an auto gearbox in and put an open centre diff. i'd leave as much of the 4wd running gear in there to add weight. on a serious note, if i had a buttload of money to through at a skline, i'd do everything i could think of. anything that couldn't be made aftermarket i would buy new from nissan to basically have a new car, with lots of mods.

there is also a cd20 (2L diesel) that is found in some n15 pulsars (not sure if any made it to australia)

then the RB in the r34 gt-t must be "race barge"

what's the damage for 1 of them?

considering that the r34 is heavier than the r33, what does that make them? oil tankers? i love it when dickheads with r34's call r33 boats when they r34 weighs even more. what sort of stupid comparison is this? you are comparing a 4wd 206kw+ (cause the 206kw quoted was a grossly under quoted figure), versus a 206kw rwd. there is a huge difference in performance.

but some people need/want the car gone quickly, so they drop the price to make it more attractive than others.

bubba you could be onto something there. if you had a hose that wasn't sitting on right, and once it had a fair bit of force on it it was opening a gap up it would cause a loss of boost pressure and the car to run overly rich, which could be the cause of this issue. it would be worth checking the cooler piping.

if an intercooler is a restriction then the pressure will be higher before the cooler than after. the more of a restriction the higher the difference.

if you are going to go rb go rb25. if not stick with the sr20. the sr20 has more torque than the rb20, and almost the same power.

do you have a front mount? if you do where do you have the controller taking its reading from? if it is from the bov hose then relocate it. have a nipple installed on the hot intercooler pipe. what does the cutting feel like? is it a hard start/stop? or is it like a spluttering? if it is a spluttering then try gapping your plugs down, and taping up your coils.

yeah, it is just a case of how quickly you want the car gone

i se a wicked polish. it is what a lot of hotrodders use. great stuff.

and there's people who try to sell a multiple times damaged r34 gt-t for 45k

ok so a modded r33 beat a modded civic. and what does this prove in the scheme of things? nothing.

is there a jibberish translater on here at all?

it's the fact that there are so many r33's for sale. and it is a series 1, and not a series 1.5 or 2. and it is coming up to 100,000kms, which means it is going to need it's timing belt done.

a stock mclaren is going to hose a stock r33 gtr. *waits for the " such and such's 700kw gtr would kick it's arse" and my response is, possibly, but i bet that at above 200kmh the maclaren would pull away because the aerodynamics of the gtr aren't designed to let it go up to close to 400kmh. but if i had to drive from brisbane to sydney i'd much preffer the SLK55. and unless you know that the person in the other car is 100% trying to win, how can you say you chopped them. they might have been using 50% throttle and just hoping that there was a cop waiting around the corner to get you. i like skylines. they are a great car, but they aren't the best car. but at the end of the day, if you spend $100,000 making a skyline as fast as you can, or buying a car for $100,000, the resale on the $100,000 is going to be way better, and it would probably be much nicer to drive, and much more reliable.