mad082

another very rare possibility is that the cam has broken. my mate had a similar problem with his CA18 (very similar setup to a rb25). we put another CAS in and it worked ok for a little while, but then it stuffed right up. we thought it may be that the timing belt had jumped a tooth but he ended up converting it to an SR20. the fell he sold his motor to (who knew it was crap) opened it up and found that the cam had snapped just near the CAS, and it was only just holding together enough to still spin the CAS, but would occasionally slip a bit more behind.

if i was given the choice of that or a GTR i would be in the tvr before the guy had even finished the sentence. the TVR's sound like sex on wheels.

i had it on my old vx commodore. hills don't suddenly go from flat to hill. there is usually a transition period. if you pay attention to the accelerator (rest your foot on it) you will see that as the hill gets steeper the accelerator goes down further. it doesn't just stay where it was then go "oh shit" and floor it straight away. it does the same thing you would if you were staying the same speed without breaking the speed limit. most work off the ecu's speed sensor, the tps and they have a second throttle cable hooked up to the throttle body that goes into a little motor to pull on the cable to apply or let off the throttle.

i want lazer guided cruise like in the mercedes. it does the braking for you too. then all i need is something to do the steering and i'm set.

very small chance you have fried a wire. if that is the case, good luck finding it.

for looks i'd say gtr, and personalyl i'd say gtr for myself (cause i'm a hoon), but i know i would break it pretty fast. but at the end of the day i would probably say evo. espeially if you owned it from new. with a gtr you can't be sure of how it has been treated, how it was run in, etc. for running costs the evo would hose the gtr. only 4 cylinder rego, cheaper insurance cause it was a manufacturer imported car, cheaper on fuel.

that's some bad engrish

i know a guy with a 4 door r32 gts-t for sale for $9500. it has a big turbo, exhaust, powerfc, cooler, 17" chromies. it made somewhere around 215kw

or you need a more powerful car.

my mate has a 1977 (i think) chrysler galant wagon. it has a burnt valve and has been running on 3 cylinders (about 1100cc) for the past few months. he drives it to work everyday (and he's a mechanic). and it's a 3 speed auto, so it is slower than a snail. he says 1 day he will get around to getting running on 4 cylinders again.

cruise control has been proven to reduce fatigue on long trips.

what shits me is that the dial up at home has an upload speed about twice as fast as the adsl at work.

ok here we go with dial up, on a pentium 2 running windows 98.

it's not just the extra potential that the rb26, but they have a butt load more power in stock form. the rb20 is the least powerful of the skyline motors. get a gts-t then put a rb25det in it, or get a r33 gts-t. they are a touch heavier (about 50kg) but make up for it by having more power.

i'll do it over the weekend, if i start it tonight it should be finished by morning, LOL

i found on the highway it used less fuel. if i'm talking and not paying enough attention i might drop down to about 95, then gas it a bit to get back up to speed, but with the cruise on it will just sit pretty much on the 1 speed so it isn't using the extra fuel to keep speeding up.

i wouldn't even use that on my fence posts to stop them rotting. i used HPR10 semi synthetic (cause i'm cheap). if you can afford it go mobil

i use some castrol stuff. its red and comes in a clear bottle with 2 caps on it. i found it a bit better than bars-bugs. i also mix a little bit of the rain-x washer fluid in there to make the water bead.

cruise control is great! have you ever used cruise control?

so he doesn't want you to have a skyline because other people who own them are hoons......... right.......... *cough* whackjob *cough*

try about $200 plus installation, which you can do yourself.

i made my grill look a bit like a s2 grill using sticker vinyl.

if the manual has the same mods the manual will still win, unless you are talking 10 second cars, or the manual driver keeps missing gears. manaul gearboxes are lighter, you can change faster and at the rpm you want it to change at. if you are talking BIG power cars then an auto can be the way to go. the best way to launch an auto is, as people have said, left foot on brake, right foot on gas, bring revs up till the car is about to start wheelspinning. if you are coordinated enough you can use the hand brake too. this will add more braking power onto the rear wheels. using the handbrake is a good way to load up a manual car too. doesn't do the clutch much good though.

that is sort of what i think. with a sealed box you may get colder air, but at high rpm you might only be getting 90% of the air that the motor could use. this isn't the sort of thing that you could really tell by seat of the pants. if you put 2 dyno graphs side by side they would slowly seperate. at low rpm they may be the same, but once you get up in the rpm you may be suffocating the motor. in my opinion if you are going to have a heat shield you should just have it run from front to back in the engine bay, and leave the back open, then have a good feed from the front bar. this will feed cold air, and blow any warm out out of the box. but even with the box you are probably getting hot air radiating off the hot intercooler piping.

try new spark plugs.