mad082

while i agree with the point you are making, you can't simply apply that sort of basic calculation to it. it doesn't take into account the difference in intake efficiency, which then also determines the amount of fuel that will go in and what sort of bang you get. given that the majority of older commodores and falcons only rev to 5000 (falcons) and 5500 (3.8L commodores) and only put out similar max power to the skyline, they would be put out similar sort of amounts of exhaust gas. as for the 2.5" stock exhaust, your mate's car may have also had a turbo exhaust put on because they didn't come out with 2.5" stock, as that is the size they used on the turbo skylines. given that on their 2.0L engines (such as the sr20) they weren't even using 2", they certainly wouldn't be going over half an inch bigger for only half a litre bigger engine.

just cut up an old car tyre and jam it in there. for it to do anything it would have to make the door harder to open and close. but i highly doubt that anyone would be able to notice the difference with or without them

the thinner the louder. and alloy would probably be louder than plastic

at speed (such as on a track day) having the thermo there won't do much good. it may even restrict the airflow a little bit. plenty of race cars don't run fans at all as they just rely on the air at speed to keep things cool

NA rb's most certainly do NOT come with 2.5" standard. unless you bought your car new from nissan you can't say that it has the stock exhaust. more than likely your car has the exhaust from a turbo r33, which run 2.5" standard. and make sure you measure inside diameter, as that is what they use when measuring exhaust size. as for 2.5L exhaust size vs 3.8L exhaust size, you have to take into account the rev range of the car as well. obviously a smaller engine that revs higher will flow similar amounts of exhaust gas at high rpm, but at the lower rev range it will flow less. the wider the rev range, the harder it is to get an exhaust size right. 2.5" is probably good for a 2.5L engine if you are going to spend a lot of time at high rpm, but if you only cruise around at lower rpm then it will drone like a mofo (as most people find out), as well as not flow as great as a smaller diameter pipe (so give you a bit less torque).

normally i would say that $400 to pull them out and clean them is a bit much, but they are a pain to get to. i'd get a price on getting them ultrasonically cleaned if you pull them out yourself. that way you know that they are actually cleaned properly. when i was looking at getting my ones done a few years back, a mates workshop charged about $35 an injector to clean. i think that was including pulling them out though, but it was on something with easier to get to injectors than a rb you may just need some new o-rings as well

The thermo fan is an over temp fan. As long as the cooling system works fineit should never come on anyway.

I don't think you could ever call a high comp 4L 6 cylinder laggy.

If you want the car to be registered (legal) then you will need to leave a lot of the factory stuff in there, and for the sake of having the car slightly nicer to drive around the place, leave the carpet in too. There isn't that much point completely stripping the car unless you want to brag about lap times or race, where the less weight actually helps. You can take a stock car to the track and flog it round all day. At the end of the day, if you knock a second or 2 off your time then you've improved.

Did you have the edu in base idle mode when checking the timing? And is the idle set to the right rpm? If it is out then the ecu will be running on a different part of the map where the timing it's different

you can't actually check the timing via a consult cable unless you actually have a timing light as well. and to set the timing you need to put the car into base idle mode, which locks the timing (generally at 15 degrees). at idle it is normal for the timing to jump around a bit. but as long as the timing that you see with a timing light and the timing you are seeing on the consult are the same then there is nothing to worry about.

oh lawd that made me lol

ok, for starters, you can't compare water coming out a hose to an exhaust. there are very much different principles going on (as far as the source of the pressure, and the lack of temp change). there are a few similarities, but also some big differences. water coming out a small hose will have a much higher pressure, meaning that it takes more pressure to move. in an engine, that means more pressure/resistance on the piston trying to force the gases out of the combustion chamber, or slowing down the speed of a turbo. secondly, the reason they make expensive exhausts out of Ti is because of weight. Ti is a poor conductor of heat compared to mild steel. you don't get a straight pipe exhaust because you need mufflers and the exhaust has to fit under the car. if you were to have an exhaust that was designed perfectly to accomodate the cooling gas, it would start big and get smaller, but not with steps to make it smaller. it would be like a long extruded cone. when it comes to headers though, there is many theories on what works, and how they deliver power. you will see ones that are a 4 into 1 design, while others are a 4-2-1 design. this will alter performance, as will the length of the primaries and secondaries. at the end of the day, discussing the finer details of exhaust design is best left to people who have a decent grasp on the principles (which i don't really class myself as having. i have enough to get me a somewhat decent idea, but am a dunce compared to someone who has studied aero-thermodynamics). it's fine for the average punter to discuss it in a broad discussion as they will often be debating things that will make bugger all difference (like debating the difference between 2.25" and 2.5" on a NA skyline).

you can only really tell if the engine is from the same era. you can't tell if it's the original engine though. possibly if you had the original log book it may have it in it, but i'm not sure

drive a s15. don't just go off sitting in the passenger seat as it doesn't give you a true feel for the performance of the car. as for the reason why all the other threads have been inconclusive is the exact same reason as why this one will be just as inconclusive. everyone has their own opinion. just drive the 2 and buy whichever you prefer. plain and simple. no point buying a car based off other peoples opinion if you don't agree with it.

They are blown though. But still, they put a lot if time into getting the length of those headers right

The timing will fluctuate at idle unless locked in timing mode.

Sounds like the part in the starter that makes it flick across and engage with the flywheel has stopped working. So it's just spinning in breeze. if you pull the starter out (a pain if a job because of the location, but easy enough to do yourself) and take it to an auto electrician they may be able to fix it for you..

Depends a bit on the design and material of the enclosure.

Oh and extractors aren't always good on a turbo car. They generally run smaller headers than a non turbo, because they want higher gas velocity (and pressure) to make the turbo spin faster.

Back pressure is bad in any car. End of story. If you disagree, go do some research on airflow. As for extractors, some cars don't benefit much from extractors because either the stock headers are designed well, or the headers aren't the cause of restriction. Take the 3.5l v6 in the late model magnas. Putting extractors on them won't gain much top end power at all. You will gain a bit in the midrange though. The reason there isn't much of a high end gain is that the cam is the restriction. On the other hand, take the sr20 in the SSS pulsar. a set if extractors on one of those makes a large difference. Standard the start to choke badly at about 5500. Put on a set if extractors and they will happily rev out for 1000rpm more before they start to choke a bit. You will get a noticeable power gain too (over 10hp). And they still have plenty of pull throughout the rev range.

Back pressure is the term used by the average punter who doesn't know what they are talking about and have just heard other people talking about it. Back pressure is an unwanted side affect from having an exhaust that has optimum at lower rpm (the rpm where the majority of the population drive at, and for highway speeds). Once you increase the airflow in a restrictive exhaust, so does the back pressure, and the increase in power output slows. If you increase the exhaust size you increase the overall airflow capacity, but at low airflow you lose some of the scavenging effect and can have more turbulent airflow, resulting in lower power output (at low rpm) compared to the smaller exhaust. You would have a higher power output at higher revs though. So there is a trade off.

The stock bov makes a fair bit of noise when it isn't muffled by the airbox. Pull the snorkel off the stock box and you will hear the stock bov a bit. It isn't louder because it is more turbulent, simply less muffled. The same goes with having the stock bov and a pod. I made an alloy heatshield for my pod and all the intake and bov noises got louder because it acted like an echo chamber. As for air temp, a decent intercooler will negate the higher air temp to a certain extent. And then there is the argument of air temp vs air volume. If you are at a power level where the airbox is becoming a restriction, an exposed pod will work better than an airbox. Obviously the colder the air, the better, but it has to be within reason.

Not all states have exposed pods as illegal. Qld doesn't (just has to be secured with a bracket). So enclosures like the just jap one work well as heat Shields, which is the point of them. A pod in a fully enclosed box often won't flow any better than a decent panel filter in the stock box.

You just discovered why painting lights is illegal (and a stupid idea in my opinion). To put in a brighter bulb you would probably need to redo the wiring to at least have different plus, and modify the light housing to accept those plugs and bulbs.