mad082

bahahahahahaha

for those download speeds your up speeds really suck.

there is a v8 rear wheel drive magna too.

try cleaning your AFM. if it is dirty it won't read the full amount of air and run it too lean. also could be a stuffed fuel pressure regulator.

no, because you aren't changing the bits that do most of the restricting.

white will give cop troubles, as will blue. the only colour that will offer 100% no cop trouble is red. you aren't allowed to have white lights pointing rearward except for when reversing. just like you aren't allowed to have red lights pointing fowards.

my 3.5" on my skyline droned heaps less than the 3" i had on my 180sx. i had a x-force system and left the centre muffler in. but if you were worried about drone just get a good oval muffler for the rear. as for which size is better, would it 3.5" from turbo back, or only cat back? if it is only from cat back then don't bother, as the front section will still be 3" and that's where the exhaust gas is the fastest. if you are going full turbo back then 3.5".

they have to leave a loophole so that if someone has owes the bank 30k for a car and gets it confiscated they can't just stop paying the loan and the bank can't reposes the car to get their money back, or if it is a hire car, the hire place would lose a car and only get a few hundred buck from the deposit back. this is a quote from that media release. it is decided by the court. so the court would see that you don't own the car, and would order you to sell the car. my mate had a 1982 mitsubishi sigma that ran a best of 12.56....... but it had a sr20 in it.

if it is not your car then you can go through court to have it so the car isn't confiscated. the same as if you owe lots of money on the car. you can go through court to say that you owe heaps of money and then they would make you sell the car.

that's weird cause in the missus pulsar i advanced the timing from 15 degrees to 19 degrees and it went much better. the problem with retarding the timing is that by the time the fuel has finished burning it may be past TDC. as the fuel burnst it expands, so by advancing the timing you have more fuel burnt by TDC. this however means that the pressure inside the chamber is higher, so the temp is higher (as well as a higher temp from more fuel being burnt). then when it next puts fuel in the chamber temp is higher, so it is closer to pre ignition. if you retard the timing less fuel gets burnt under high pressure, so there is less heat. while the fuel is unburnt it keeps the chamber cool.

most of the people out there that say that 200rwkw from a stock ecu/turbo rb25 are probably running stock timing. there are also other things you can do to get more power, but i can't tell you, otherwise i'd have to kill you.

i've done it. advanced it about 5/6 degrees. went much better. i just took it to the point of pinging, then came back a touch. helps build revs faster. you just have to make sure you run the best fuel you can, and always run that fuel.

no he won't. i have run a s1 ecu on a s2. he would just need to remove the ignitor pack, and have the wiring sorted. was it just the block that was changed, or the whole motor, or a mix of parts? if it was just the block then it would be in the wiring of the coils. it may be that there is an earth problem with the coil wiring.

if you are driving a car which the law says you can't drive then you have no respect for the law. if you did you wouldn't be driving that car.

i had this problem, but it was just a dodgy wire. it wasn't affecting performance though. i could turn the ignition to on (without starting the car) first thing in the morning and it would come on.

i had the standard r33 s1 grill and i made it look a bit more like a s2 grill with black and white vinyl (sticker vinyl, like the graphics on cars). came out like this.... (this is a dodgy photo, and i had just wrapped a heap of tape around it and given it a quick spray paint to get the general idea of what it would look like)

the problem is that some of these driver training places teach too much, or too well. and then you get the rev heads and it just increases their confidence so they do even more stupid stuff on the street.

dude, you got capslock on again.

are you going to run a atmo bov, or no bov? because not running a bov isn't the best thing for a turbo.

at the front of the plenum on the drivers side of the motor there is a little 10mm bolt. if you undo this while the engine is running it will bleed the system. it is best to do this while the engine is cold, as it does spurt a bit of water out with the bubbles. if you don't do it properly you can end up with air pockets, which will be hotter than the coolant. too hot= bad.

i would like the cops to go through and do a huge blitz on p-platers in restricted cars. if you own a skyline and are on your p's (and still at school) then there is pretty good chance your daddy paid for your car, and also a good chance that your parents aren't aware that you aren't supposed to be driving that car. so a blitz on p-platers driving restricted cars might wake parents up to what's going on.

+1 for stuffed headgasket/crack in head. or you got some of the oil/water lines mixed up.

i have seen a picture of a r33 with it done. the way that they had altered the piping was a bit weird though. i think you would still get issues with stalling though, because as you lift off and the bov (even plumback) opens, there is going to be a rush of air go past the AFM, so it will richen up the mixtures a lot. also the AFM would get dirtier easier, therefore give inaccurate readings. if you get a lot of blowby, or have a slightly stuffed oil seal on the turbo the AFM is going to get covered in oil, and won't read all the air going past.

thats ok then

tey don't have limiters. that would've been valve bouncing.