mad082

i wouldn't really class the rb20 as a nice engine. more like the smaller brother of a nice engine.

you can make a v8 fit anything. i have seen a datsun 1200 ute with a 350 chev in it. the length of the motor isn't the problem, its the width. there was a r33 with a v8 (i think lexus v8) at jamboree in qld this year. i think they are on this forum. you could start with a gts instead of a gts-t, but then you would have to upgrade the diff and the brakes, but it may be cheaper to do it that way than buy a gts-t. you won't get the 4wd to work without huge money spent.

talk about consistent. i just dd the test again and got the exact same results. but i suppose at low speed its hard to get any slower.

you poor bastard.

i could get it there for free if you can wait till next week sometime. i have a friend from the north side coming up over easter and could just send it back with them.

bump

price drop. $7800

bump

you would need to find out what the exchange rate was back then to get an accurate idea on price.

but thats not manual. unless it has a clutch it ain't a manual.

i got the cost of a r34 somewhere in a motor mag where they did a review of it in japan. i think it was around the 45-50k. i will have a look sometime when i could be bothered looking through boxes of stuff for the magazine.

with mine i just cut the nipple off the old piping and oxy welded it to the stock 'hot' pipe (from turbo to cooler). i found this stopped the boost spike problem i had also.

the only thing that admins do that shit me is when they change your post (to something insulting about you), or user details (also to something insulting). i have had both done to me and there is no way to find out who it was. when they change a post that was insulting to filter it then that sok, but when it isn't rude and they make it insulting, thats abusing their power.

no its a pee-wee motor bike. they make a wr250, so they have obviously made a 33cc version, lol

the description says manual, but the picture shows an auto.

i hate movies like that. one starts to lose so he gives it a bit more and overtakes. then the other gives it a bit more and overtakes. who the hell races like that? the idea is to go as fast as possible and win by as much as possible.

i don't think corners are a concern at 1000 feet.

my mate made a front bar for his vn using chicken wire and fibreglass. didn't look that bad. didn't look that good either, but there were uglier ones made by professionals. a few mates want to make a corolla (old school 1970's one) sound tuffer one night. and they didn't have a hacksaw so they just punched holes in the muffler with a screwdriver. the same car was going to be painted so they rubbed it back to bare metal. then they couldn't be bothered doing any more so they left it a few days. then they gave it a quick sand to get rid of the surface rust and gave it 1 coat of undercoat. he drove round like that for about 6 months before the car was pretty much covered in surface rust. funniest thing i've heard of happening was a mate had a sunbird (torana) and he thrashed the hell out of it. went out doing skids, then the next night he was going round a round about when his diff broke and turned itself into a locked diff, and the because it chirped the wheels when it did it, and there happened to be a cop behind him he got booked.

i used an angle grinder, cut a square hole, and left the sharp edges with no covering.

i just remembered my old work car (i didn't own it, it was at my last job). it was a 1954 morris panel van. bright yellow with "toyworld" painted up the side. one day before my time working there 1 of the guys was driving up the road and hit a bump and the steering wheel and bar it connects to came out in his hands. so the boss put a hose clamp on it so wouldn't come off. it was still running drum brakes all round so if the car in front was close enough to see, you were too close. and it had a leaking master cylinder so at traffic lights on a slight hill you had to wedge your knee under the steering wheel to help apply as much brake pressure as possible to stop from rolling. sometimes the first pump of the brakes would go to the floor without slowing you down at all. one time it had a kinked brake line on the front right, so everytime you hit the brakes it pulled violently to the left. and the boss didn't do much about it. he could've got the disc brakes off the front of a 120Y installed for about $1000, but instead he spent $900 getting the old stuff patched up every 6 months (this happened for a few years while i worked there). one day another guy was driving it when the front axle snapped (or something like that, i didn't work there at the time) and it lost 1 of the front wheels (wheel, hub, brakes, etc) but the boss got it fixed instead of just buying another car. anyway, back to the topic of dodgy stuff. one day the handle for the rear door snapped off. it was a handle that turned like an old house door handle (the long ones, not the round ones) so i got a bike axle, filed it square at 1 end to fit in the hole, then got a cheap 17mm ring/open end spanner from solly's (or somewhere like that) and using 3 17mm nuts and 2 big washers i put the ring end of the spanner on the middle nut and locked the other ones up against it to stop it moving, and used a heap of other nuts and washers to get the spacing right, and i didn't cut the open end off. 5 years later it is still on there, and no one has cut the open end off. so anyone who parks behind it can see it's a spanner. it wasn't to bad to drive. except that they tyres were re-treads, and it would walk all over the road, and the brakes were crap, and it was slow as hell, but it was good fun to thrash. it was running a datsun 1200 motor and gearbox, which would scream its way up to 6500rpm before your conscience made you change gears. it was kind of like driving a race car because you could easily change gears both up and down without the clutch, and i would start to pump the brakes with my left foot before i got to a corner. and parts are dirt cheap for it. a clutch for a datsun 1200 is about $95.

there are plenty of VNs in town that are sitting on bump stops. i've seen a xd falcon with a eb GT front bar on it. and a vh commodore with a vr front bar on it.

the power output nissan quoted is the same (due to a gentlemans agreement that the jap car manufacturers have with the jap government not to make a car over 206kw). stick them both on a dyno and the results will tell you otherwise. the gtr will have more power. it is still possible to get a gtr to light the tyres up in first and second. if you like giving it a bit of stick in the wet i'd say go for the gtt. sure the gtr has awd, but that means you get understeer if the wheels start to spin.

find a metal work place. they should be able to make some up for you.

i have seen front bars that have cracked and had heaps of cable ties put in it to hold it together. a few cars back i had a heap of hcips on the front bar and i was going to sell it so i got a can of touchup paint and just sprayed over the top of it without rubbing it back... or cleaning the bugs off. looked great afterwards.

go the r33. they have a stronger motor (and go faster), nicer interior, and are generally in better condition due to being newer.