mad082

there is also an IAC valve under the plenum that may be causing the issue you are having. otherwise check the o2 sensor, the rocker cover breather hoses and the PCV valve and grommet.

not possible. the ecu has been remapped. the stock ecu has a speed cut at about 112mph (180kmh). what does the car hit the rev limit at? if it is above 7000rpm then that is another sign the ecu has been remapped.

i think a fine adds about 10% onto your premium (depnding on how big the fine was)

my current car costs me $550 a year for full comp (gotta love aussie built family cars). in 6 months time i will be 25 so insurance will drop again.

i can do you a good deal on one. yes i told them. rang them up to tell them after i did each mod so i wouldn't get bent over if i had an accident.

i was paying $950 for my r33. thats when i was 23, and the agreed value was only about $15000. on any of the cars i've owned i've never been charged extra for putting mods on. i've had 2 cars insured with just cars (the skyline and my old 180sx which was $1750 a year when i was 22). all the cars i have had i have done exhaust mods too (and the skyline also got a FMIC), and most of them i have put mags on, and never been charged extra.

i used to own a 180sx with a GFB basic bov on it. it never stalled. another of my mates has a sr20 in a GH sigma with stock AFM and ecu and a bov he made himself, no stalling. his missus has a 180sx with an sr in it. when they got the car it didn't have a bov and didn't stall. now they have a greddy full atmo bov on it and it doesn't stall. another mate has a silvia with an atmo bov, again no stalling. another mate has a 180sx with a ca18 in it. no stalling issue. yours must be 1 of the very few to do it. i'd check the condition of the spark plugs, and also see what gap and temp they are.

if you are in qld then you will still be able to drive the car if you get your licence before july 1 this year.

would you be talking about red-top sr20s? they actually do have a bov. its right next to the stock intercooler. i use the one off my old 180sx as a paper weight. i had the stalling issue on my car with stock bov, and my best mate had it in his car with a hks ssq bov. the reason the new plugs help is that new plugs have a stronger spark than old plugs (and older plugs have generally warn the gap wider than what they started), and since running no bov/atmo bov makes the car run rich when you lift off the throttle the stronger spark doesn't get wet out as easy. there are lots of cars out there that run fine with the stock ecu and atmo/no bov. skylines just seem to be the most tempremental with everything to do with turbo motors. look at the sr20. you can screw heaps of boost through it and the ecu won't cut out, the turbo won't spit the exhaust wheel out the back, you can run atmo bovs or no bov without any dramas.

looks fun. don't know about the stock internals though, unless it is an american gen 3 with the stronger rings.

sounds alright. the sound of the blower would get a bit annoying after a while.

think of a natro skyline as a rear wheel drive magna. about the same performance (low 15's or very high 14's and beat commodores and falcons).

r34 gt skyline = 1370kg, 147kw 1999 integra type r = 1170kg, 141kw so 200kg less, and only 7kw less. that is why they are faster. i'd put the missus SSS pulsar up against a natro skyline. it is only stock motor but has 112hp at the front wheels and pulls like a train. it just has a 2" exhaust and extractors (which made a huge difference). it nearly keeps up with midly modded silvias.

may consider swapping for an old shitter with cash my way.

ford isn't the only aussie company to have trouble with turbo 6s. i was talking to a mechanic about this yesterday and he said that the first model vl turbo had heaps of dramas. also here's some recent nissan recalls. 2006 NISSAN SENTRA and ALTIMA - CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 2.5L ENGINES MAY EXPERIENCE EXCESSIVE ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION AS A RESULT OF IMPROPER PERFORMANCE OF THE PISTON RINGS 2006 NISSAN MAXIMA - ON CERTAIN VEHICLES, THE REAR SUBFRAME MAY HAVE BEEN MANUFACTURED INCORRECTLY, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRACK IN A BRACKET WHICH HOLDS PART OF THE REAR SUSPENSION. Defect Consequence: IF THE BRACKET IS CRACKED, THE STABILITY OF THE VEHICLE MAY BE AFFECTED UNDER SEVERE DRIVING CONDITIONS. THIS COULD LEAD TO A LOSS OF CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH. just do a search on nissan recalls. there's heaps.

they do sound mint! there is 1 in town that just has a flash tune ecu, bigger injectors and exhaust and a touch more boost that put down 397hp on a hot day at the local dyno comp last year. another mate of mine has a built xr6t that supposedly had about 440hp. had time slips for 11 second passes (it also had polished rocker cover and a few other things but only stock turbo). on the highway at 120kmh if he pinned it when it dropped back to third the traction control would kick in. he wasn't game enough to turn the traction control off.

other way round. the series 2 coils have the ignitor built in. series 1 have it at the back of the rocker cover. some people think that the series 2 ignitor is in the ecu, but they are wrong.

just so you know, it doesn't really matter if the ecu is series 1 or 2. they are the same thing. some people think that the series 2 has an ignitor built in, but they don't. otherwise apexi would've made a different power fc's for the different series, but there is just the one.

that has nothing to do with it being a ford. when you start getting up to that sort of power level things break easily. my mate built a datsun L20 motor, bored and stroked it to 2.2L. it made 154hp (115kw) but only lasted 12,000kms before it arced a headgasket.

bump

i (and a few mates) had the stalling issue that everyone attributes to atmo bovs, except for the fact i have a 100% stock bov. the reason that a new set of plugs may fix it is that if the old plugs are getting old they will be foulded and the gap may be bigger than needed. so by putting in a new set of plugs you get a stronger spark which will burn up the extra fuel. new plugs have solved the stalling issue on a few different turbo cars i know, all but 2 with atmo bovs.

to change the thing in your avatar: go to "my controls", "edit profile information" then type what you want in "Custom member title". as for mods, the most important mod to do before anything else is exhaust. there is no point putting more air in if it can't get out. try to go full turbo back, or at least cat back. then go air filter. then you can put a touch more boost in, but don't go above about 9psi on the stock cooler in summer.

i'd say the mazda 3.

if they are parts on this forum they will be in $au, since 99% of people on here live here in australia (hence the name skylinesAUSTRALIA).

as far as the diff/gearbox argument goes, go and read old motor magazines from the PCOTY tests, etc and see what they say about the HSV gearboxes. another thing to take into account is how many of these cars there are to how many are blowing up. it might be in the range of 1 per thousand (just making up numbers) but until you can put it into perspective and get an overall number from a large number of dealerships, saying that they are shit is pointless. the ratio of cars blowing motors to the number of cars sold might be worse than skylines. i'd like to know some figures from japan on how many motors where rebuilt due to turbo failure throwing bits of compressor into the cylinders. if ford is nown for weah heads, nissan would be known for weak turbos on the rb motors. the final thing to think about with the falcon motors blowing up, how many of these were driven gently for the first few thousand kms. a lot of them probably weren't given a decent run in time and were just raped from day 1, which doesn't help prolong engine life. the main problem is that for is trying to build a $70,000 car for $50,000.