mad082

$100 sounds like a bit of a rip off. There are cheaper ways to ruin your engine.....

Oh and the cost if a solicitor would probably be more than the cost of the repairs.

Do you have insurance? If so, get it processed through them so you get the repairs done properly. How bad is the damage? If it is only minor panel damage then it should be fine to drive as is. they would've had to have hit the bench pretty hard to do any serious damage. I hate to say it, but it kind of sounds like you are over reacting a bit. They would've had to have hit the bench at high speed to make it so you are without a car for a few months And find out who the friend is. If they work for a panel shop then the work should be done to a reasonable standard. I doubt your resale will be affected very much unless your car is absolutely perfect and the damage is major. There are plenty of cars getting around that have been crashed that you would never know they had.

Oh yay, another thread by some young douche who likes to think the laws don't apply to them....

A lightened flywheel doesn't really increase power. They increase acceleration by a very small amount due to the decreased inertia in the drivetrain.

You can make a box to fit the pod in so it's enclosed

if it's only the chain/cassette then they are pretty cheap. i also found a way to check your chain stretch without needing a special chain checker. you do need a set of vernier callipers though. set them to 132mm, insert the back section (the bit you use for measuring inside diameters) into the chain. they should go in 6 links apart (a link is an inside plate and an outside plate). if you have the left side against the left hand pin in an outside link, the other end should be against the right hand side of an outside plate. make sure it is contacting the roller and not the end of the plate. then expand the callipers. if you have digial ones then they will be best, but you can sort of estimate with analogue ones. if your callipers read anything over about 132.7mm then your chain needs replacing. if you get to 133mm then there is a good chance that your cassette/freewheel will need replacing, and anything over 133.2 and your chainrings should be inspected too, as they may not accept a new chain. chain wear 101: the reason why you can't run a new chain with a worn cassette is that the stretched chain doesn't grip on the cogs properly and ends up riding up the teeth. so your pedalling force is over a smaller area of the teeth, which squashes the metal. in some places it will sit where it should, but further around it will sit up higher. when you then put a new, shorter chain on, it will sit up high on the teeth the whole way round, and when you put pressure on it will just skip up over the teeth, resulting in bashing your knees on the bars. replacing your chain before it gets too stretched drastically improves the life you get out of your chainrings and cassettes. you don't have the chain riding up the teeth as much. if replaced before getting too stretched, you should get 2 or maybe even 3 chains per cassette, and 4 or 5 chains to a set of chainrings (unless you spend a lot of time in only 1 or 2 gears, in which case you may get less). things that increase chain stretch rate are not lubing your chain, 'cross gearing' (for example using the big front chain ring and the biggest cog at the back, or the small front chainring and the smallest cog at the back), and "grinding" rather than "spinning" (riding with a low cadence and pushing hard, rather than using an easier gear and spinning a bit faster).

what heat range plugs are you running? if they are 7's then going to a 6 (hotter plug) might be a short term solution until you can get it to the tuner

go see your local automotive AC place. if they are half decent they should be able to source you something to do the job

i don't think skylines have reach adjustment. i know my r33 didn't. as for the ignition barrel, yes you can get a new one that is keyed the same as your old one. there should be a number on your old one which you could take to any decent locksmith (not just one of those key cutting places) and get it sorted

it's pretty simple. put the car for sale at what you would be happy to get for it. see what sort of interest you get.

i bought a v6 commodore for my 60km drive to work from gympie to noosa everyday, for the simple fact that having to put a new engine in everytime i get to work and get home is much cheaper. with having to pull the engine out so often i feel like a 300zx owner.....

that's the ones. hub centric rings. been a few years since i've had anything to do with them and my brain isn't working. all i could think of was that we used to refer to them as egg rings.

so you are pedaling and it skips/slips? it could be one of 2 things. 1: the freewheel mechanism is slipping due to being sticky or worn. 2: the chain and cassette is worn. to check the chain for stretch you really need a proper tool, but there are ways to sort of tell. put it into the big chainring at the front and try pulling the chain away from the chainring. if you can lift it away from the chainring (it will only be a mm or so) then the chain is stretched. also run your fingernail along the teeth of the freewheel/cassette from the back of the tooth to the front. if it catches on a burred edge at the front edge of the tooth then the cassette is worn and the chain will be too.

you can get spacers they often refer to as "egg rings" which alter the size of the centre hole

could be a shagged CAS resulting in the timing being totally out. could be a busted camshaft (sounds odd, but a mate had it happen on his CA18 where it would run, but the timing was so far out that it would shoot flames while just sitting there pumping the throttle. i have a video we took in the carpark of where he worked one night.) or it could be that the timing belt (or tensioner) is damaged or has jumped a few teeth. or a chance that it has simply popped a cooler pipe off

yes if you track them they will break, but so will skylines (oil starvation issues, and blown ceramic turbos). i also wouldn't say the ATTESSA system is a better AWD system than the subaru system as they are very different. the ATTESSA system is a rwd system that can engage the front wheels when the rear wheels lose traction. the subaru system is a constant awd with 50/50 split (which makes for good slides on a wet skidpan). evo's are a more fwd biased awd.

they have been doing emissions test for a while. there have been threads about them on here for a few years

lol. carbon wheels in the rain are a bit like that. you put the brakes on and it feels like you are speeding up

could just be a gasket from the oil feed is leaking. degrease it then check it after every few drives to try and find where it is coming from

bolt in a dragon. just make sure it's a blue or red one

gearboxes are only weak if you like dump the clutch a lot. they are a lot better in the newer ones than the very early models. if i was to get one it would be one of the second gen ones after they got rid of the bug eyes (2002 onwards), but i do still have a soft spot for a tidy first gen.

i had mine ziptied to the air vent in the corner of the windscreen at the base of the A pillar

plenty of people have done turboed falcons (from ea through to au). 200kw is a very reasonable goal too. i wouldn't be suprised if it was higher though. the biggest costs will be the ecu, tuning, turbo, piping (exhaust and cooler piping), cooler and setting up oil and water feeds to the turbo. and if you don't have a lsd, you might want to think of sorting that out too. the sort of torque that a 4L NA+T puts out will result in lots of wheelspin from an open diff.

Cars have always needed to meet emissions laws regardless of mod plates, etc. this means that 99% of imports with aftermarket ecu's are illegal (except ones that have had an emissions compliant tune done), and plenty of imports with stock ecus, but running higher boost, aftermarket cat convertors, etc, would also fail (and plenty do when tested)