mad082

what did you make the pod out of?

nismo boy, my mate that bought the silvia reakons your lexus has the best sounding lexus v8 he's heard, and he's heard a few.

my mate ended up getting the silvia. its a natro, auto, ca18 (not that the motor will be in there long). paid $1800 for it and the body is perfect. the galant wagon is a beast. its a 1.3 auto, with a burnt valve so its running on 3 cylinders. he decided against doing it up after he put a set of 14" wheels on it and it would just walk all over the road when it hit a bump.

it is probably your TPS (throttle position sensor) is slightly out of place. try adjusting it either way and see what that does. you should only need to go a fraction of a turn.

AFR gause is useless (other than for having pretty lights flash) if being run off the stock O2 sensor.

i use gasket sealant. just make sure it is suitable for exhausts.

is it while accelerating or just normal steady speed driving? it could be your air flow meter, a short in the wiring somewhere, or a few other things.

gotta love this forum. the moment there is a hesitation problem everyone say rich and retard. if it was R&R he would have it in both situations. he is stomping the gas in both situations, just in one he gives it light throttle for a few hundred rpm then stomping it. where do you have the bleeder valve getting its reading from? is it a hose that gets vacuum as well as pressure (such as the bov hose) or if it just off the cooler piping. i was getting spiking after my intercooler instal as i had the booct controller getting its reading from the bov hose. i put a nipple into the hot cooler pipe (from turbo to cooler) and this solved my problem.

i made mine out of alloy simple because i can bend it easily, and got a sheet of it for free. i just haven't gotten around to getting foam to insulat it with yet.

first you need to tell us what you have done, and how it isn't working, and what type it is.

i got 204kw with my stock turbo and ecu on 11psi. any higher and it hit R&R. my mate has 1 with 175kw and mine feels heaps better. before mine had the cooler put on and only had a cat back exhaust and was running 9psi it was a dead match for another mates car that had full exhaust, cooler and 11psi. i know that my turbo is stock, but i just think that my engine is healthy, and we had made a few "modifications" to get more power out of it. now i have a remapped ecu and am running 13-14psi (still on stock turbo). while trying to sort out an idle missfire issue i put the old ecu back in and went back to 11psi. it felt like a grandma car. it was so boring. so i stuck the remaped ecu back in and wound the boost back up and it went back to being a fun car. i'm going to be getting a safc some time just to trim up the AFRs to get even more power. the remapped ecu is leaner than the stock ecu, but is still down around 11.4 at WOT at high rpm.

the amount of heat of the headlights would be sweet F.A. the rear of the light is plastic, which doesn't conduct heat well. if you put you hand over the back of the light it will only be slightly warm. you would get more heat radiating off the intercooler pipe that runs from the turbo to the cooler. as for making a completely sealed box, i'm undecided on this. sure you wouldn't get any hot air coming in, but if you don't have a big enough feed at high rpm it may end up being a restriction. if you don't have it set up right at WOT at high rpm you might be only getting 90% of the air that could be used. if it isn't fully sealed in the same situation it will be able to get 100% air. and the small amount of warm air is going to be better than not enough air.

grounding it to anywhere on the body should be fine.

here is 1 i bodged up 1 afternoon. thats better, made it a bit smaller. i didn't cut the lid quite right, but i don't really give a damn.

pics are up. NOTE: it doesn't come with the personalised plates.

after finding out howmuch my mate paid for his 1j front cut i would say go the 1j. my mate got a front cut for $1400. by the time you buy a rb25 front cut you are looking at close to $4000. so with the 1j you can buy a front cut and aftermarket ecu and get it all bolted in and still come in well under the cost of doing the rb25 conversion. i'm looking at doing a 1j conversion into a vb commodore (since a vb commodore weighs about the same (or less) as a silvia, and has a nice big engine bay. i just want to do something different, and also want to see the look on import owners faces when i leave them for dead (as the body is going to stay in its current state - factory paint job, 15" wheels, and rust holes at the bottom of the front doors).

the torque reading on a dyno is often a fair way out. my old 3.5L magna had over 700nm of torque according to my dyno sheet, and it only had 170hp (from same dyno sheet).

pics will be up tomoro. also, it has new tyres, and air-con.

Item: 2003 Toyota Echo Location: Gympie Website: Item Condition: VGC Reason for Selling: bought another car Price and Payment Conditions: 12500 ono Extra Info: 5 speed manual 17" alloys with new tyres air-con lowered (king springs) tinted windows factory cd player central locking twin exhaust tips headlight and bonnet protectors registered with rwc 71,XXXks full logbook servicing with balance of dealership warranty has ming paint and interior protection, rust proofing and underbody sound deadening. no swaps, need money to pay for the car i just bought. Note: It doesn't some with the personalised plates. Contact Details: Alena 0415788520 (after hours, or sms)

maybe the timing belt has jumped a tooth on 1 of the cams. how many k's on the car (in total, not just since rebuild). it may be that when the engine was rebuilt they didn't replace the timing belt, and it is due to be changed. my mates 180sx that is having similar problems is overdue for its second timing belt (its done over 200,000ks). we have to keep the timing fully advanced to get it to perform. we tried jumping a tooth with the cas and it was way too advanced. we think the timing belt may have jumped a tooth.

just a quick question, is it that the car is just plain slow, or is it a start/stop/start/stop type of thing?

i know of a few other brand gauges that i have seen that don't sit dead on 0 when turned off. maybe all the faulty gauges were out of the 1 batch.

i was just talking to my mate who used to be the manage of a goodyear tyre shop. he said the widest he had seen on a skyline was 285s, but he said with rolled gaurds (and the right offset wheel) you should be able to fit 305s.

fair enough. me, i'll keep frying up these 225 16's and go and spend another $100 a tyre when they are dead.

the sign was somewhere near supercheap. it was a 2 legged sign. he hit it with the left rear quarter right in front of the tail light. the next day we started panel beating it out and its pretty much all done. all it needs now is a coat of paint. nismo boy, my mate said you were doing pretty well. my mate that was in his missus car is going to look at a silvia this arvo. he's going to put the motor and box out of his drag car in there (a GH sigma with a sr20 in it - the motor is only stock with the usual mods -exhaust, cooler and more boost, but it ran a 12.5 at the 2005 jamboree). so when he puts that in he'll be out and about in it. it should handle a bit better than what he was going to put the motor into - a 1977 chrysler galant wagon.