mad082

get a 32 and put a rb25 in it. then your power potential will rise. you will be looking at close to 200kw on stock turbo with all the usual mods. the only problem is that high rpm launches won't be possible anymore unless you want to fry the tyres.

what revs does an rb20 hit full boost by? my 33 hits it by under 3000rpm. i have been in a few 32s and none have gone as well as 33's i have been in. they have all had the same mods, just cooler, exhaust, pod and a boost increase. they are just too laggy. r33's don't seem that fast by seat of the pants in the drivers seat because they pull from such a low rpm. silvias and r32s come in higher so it feels like they pull harder, but it is just because they pull less down low. but if you keep both up in the rev range the r33 feels better.

i had mine connected to the bov line, but got spiking. so i cut the nipple off the stock piping and mounted it on the factory intercooler pipe from turbo to cooler. this solved my spiking issue.

anyone that sells NGK stuff will be able to order you one that is a direct fit for your skyline. just go in and tell them you have a r33. there is a part number listed in the current NGK catalogue for both r32 and r33s. if they can't find that then tell them you want one for a n15 SSS pulsar. it is the same part number.

you would need an aftermarket ecu that can tune each cylinder individually and a wideband o2 sensor for each cylinder to make the most of this mod.

just so people with aftermarket boost gauges don't get confused, most aftermarket boost gauges read either psi or bar in positive, and most that read psi positive boost don't read psi in vacuum. in vacuum they read inches vacuum or something like that.

its only illegal if you get caught........ LOL i wouldn't have partaken in anything like that. i would've just watched.

gates belts are noisey.

the 2 guys in the black 180's are my mates. the guy that had his missus with him, that was her car. the other guy ended up hitting a sign post with the rear quarter while taking evasive action when someone lost it in front of him. i wished i had gone down. sounded like a good night.

can i ask why you would want 295's? wouldn't it be easier to just get some semi slicks in a skinnier size.

yeah, them in white. wasn't sure if they were an actual gtr wheel or not.

i'd go out and try advancing the timing as much as possible just to see what that does.

i kept telling my mate that the problem was that it was a ca18 and no matter what we did to the motor it wasn't going to be fast. his problem originally started only when the car was cold, and when it warmed up it would go away. then it started doing it all the time.

it was on a ca18det powered 180sx that we had this issue. and the spline was a bit flogged out.

with my mates 180sx, when we retarded the timing we got to a point (about 1/3 of the way back from full advance) where the car would just start running like complete crap. anywhere above that and it ran ok, but below that it ran like crap. we had originally thought that the water temp sender may have been dead and making the engine think it was really really cold and retarding the timing heaps and dumping fuel in, but it seemed fine. we tested it, and swapped it with another one and nothing changed. that may be worth testing also.

the easy way to test it is to try someone elses. other than that i'm not sure. when you change them over you have to make sure that the new one is lined up. they have a half moon type thing in the end of them.

the running temp of the engine may be due to the thermostat that is in there.

i have my stock one (s2, the s1 one that i am using has been remapped), but unfortunately i am 2 hours north of brissy.

i'd check you crank angle sensor. i was working on a mates 180sx a few weeks back, and the CAS was slightly shagged. it was as slow as a wet week. you put your foot down and it was like driving with your foot hard on the brake. try doing this as a test. advance your timing as far as it will go then go for a spin. this may make it ping its arse off, so only drive down the road and back. if you do this and the car runs fine then i'd say it is your crank angle sensor. and if you do it and there is no sound of pinging then you should be able to leave it like that until you can get a new one.

i should just note that a s1 ecu can be used in a s2. they are the same. people seem to think that s2's have the ignitor built into the ecu, but it is in the coil packs, not the ecu. i am currently running a s1 ecu with a s2 motor.

you should try over 280hp on old, hard 205's. first gear is useless (unless you want to create smoke) at anything over about 60% throttle

i had an autometer sports comp boost gauge in my old 180sx and it still running strong after about 3 years. my mate is using the same autometer boost gauge that his brother used in his sr20 powered 1600 about 5 years ago (and been used all this time). i'm yet to hear of anyone i know with autometer gauges that have stuffed up. but then skyline owners are the first people with turbo cars i know to have issues with atmo bovs. and it only seems to be people on this forum. out of all my mates with skylines and other turbo cars i'm the only 1 with a plumback, and none of them have had any issues. i had a stalling issue with my stock bov, and a new set of plugs fixed that.

a guy i know with a r34 gtr has a set of gtr wheels on that are about a 12 spoke with a ring around about 2 inches from the lip of the ring. i will try to get pics. they are white and have gtr stamped on them.

a 500hp gtr is going to pull a lot better out of a corner than a 500hp gts-t. to get the same grip you would need about 400 wide rear tyres. a gtr may have 150kgs more, but they have much more power than the quoted 206kw. if i was you i'd scrap the $400 tyres you are currently using and go to 235's on the front and at least 235's on the rear. by going to 235's all round you will have better traction and drive out of corners, so that will drop your lap times. also by running either 16 or 17" rims you have more sidewall in the tyre (compared to the 18's you are looking at). this means that on a rougher track you will get more shock absorbed by the tyre, resulting in a smoother ride and more traction. with a bigger rim and less sidewall your tyres will be more likely to hit the bumps and bounce, resulting in less grip.

performance wise an r33 is quicker. it has more power and only weighs a touch more, and its easier to get power out of a rb25. r32 weighs about 1320kg with 158kw, thats 120kw/ton. r33 weighs about 1370kg with 184kw, thats 134kw/ton. i prefer the interior of the r33. its more modern looking. the exterior of them i think they can both look good, and they can both look bad.