mad082

if you have only just started noticing it, it may be that your gauge hasn't been working properly till now. the vacuum is caused by the butterfly in the throttle body being shut, like holding your hand over the end of a vacuum cleaner, therefore it creates a vacuum in the manifold. as you open the throttle the vacuum gets less and less until you have the throttle open enough where the engine can suck in as much air as it is using (0 vacuum pressue). that is a basic rundown on what happens.

some mates of mine saw nismo boy on wednesday at one of the round-abouts near noosa. they were down there with some mates. there was some black 180sx's (my mates) a young dude in a 32, a guy in a ed falcon and a few others.

it will be fine.

my bad. need to go back to school and learn to read.

firstly, the gauge doesn't give you an accurate reading, it will just look pretty. secondly, you probably have it hooked up to one of the heater wires.

the safc will let you trim up the afrs, but the mines ecu should be ok. the safc would also allow for a z32 afm, but not injectors.

its because your car has an rb20 under the hood.

it may have dcv and dca on the multimeter. that means direct current volts and amps. it may also have aca (alternating current amps).

the times i have seen this before have had the following solutions- on my mates 180sx the plug on the injector for number 1 was faulty. on my mates r33 his ecu was fried (had a hole melted in it), but it kept frying number 6 coil. if it was a sticking valve i think it would me a bit less intermittent. and it seems that when your car is warm it goes away.

if it is always at number 4 then it means it is to do with the wiring or ignitor not coils or plugs. also check that the injector plug for number 4 is on properly.

it could be moisture in the wiring harness plug, or a short in the wiring harness, or the ignitor.

at a motorkana in town there was a natro r33, and it sounded heaps like a falcon. at low rpm a magna with a sports exhaust and cannon sounds a bit like a skyline. all the natro skylines i've heard sound like aussie fords, but none of the turbos.

cost will depend on whether you get 2pack or accrylic. will probably be about $30-$40 a litre. then you will also need thinners. if you have never painted before, go to the wreckers and buy an old boot or something to practise on first.

it should be on your factor specs plate, on the firewall on the drivers side in the engine bay. it will be about halfway down the plate.

to disconnect the 2 stage, just remove the T piece and run a single hose from the intercooler piping to the actuator.

thats also a common thing with VN commodores. they often sound like they have some sort of blower on them, but its just low power steering fluid.

i put a 12" thermo on the front of my radiator (on the passenger side where the is a cut out in the shroud for one) and after i hooked it up i put my hand down behind the cut out (after first putting it into the fan.....) and i can feel a little bit of airflow, but not as much as i thought. it is still better than nothing. i have it hooked up to my aircon. i'm going to put a new thormostat in on the weekend, cause i think my stock one is half dead. it takes ages to come up to temp (about twice as long as the missus SSS pulsar) and even on the highway on xmas day i could hear the clutch fan half working, and round town it was on all the time. i think the thermostat isn't fully opening or closing.

i go through tyres to quick to spend big amounts of money on tyres. the next set i get for the front are going to be a good sticky set, but i'll just keep putting shitters on the back.

that is too bad. i've had a fibreglass front bar for about 6 months now, scraped it on driveways, had a fury animal run out in front of me and all i have is 5 little cracks. the longest one about 3 inches. any panel beater should be able to do it.

i own a bike shop, and the price of fuel isn't helping me at all. i live in a hilly town, and about 60% of the population is on some form of welfare. so when the price of fuel goes up, sales go down. if the price of fuel went up to $2 or $3 a litre then sales may pick up. but at the moment the price is still at a point where people are just putting up with it. and yes the price fo goods is affected by the price of fuel. when the price of fuel went up to over $1 the cost of freight went up. so that means shop keepers put their prices up to cover costs. then there is also the fact that the shop keepers personal bills go up so the prices may go up even more.

i don't think so, since the accessories are turning off.

i haven't really ever attributed high rpm in first or second to high speeds.

if you do want to run an atmo bov just make sure the spring tension is set stiff, it seals properly around the base, you have newish spark plugs and you shouldn't have any stalling issues. as for the plumback pipe, just find a bottle cap that fits and clamp it in.

it looks like it may be the bov line, as the bov also looks to be blocked off.

it will perform better than a bleeder as there is no air being let out of the system, and should hold boost better.