mad082

there is a small chance that there has been a turbo timer fitted at some stange, and when it has been removed there is some bare wire shorting out. another possibility is that the turbo timer is still there and hidden up behind the dash. try letting the handbrake off next time it does it. if the car stops as soon as you do that then there is a turbo timer still fitted.

the only problem is that if they make it uniform laws across the country it will probably be the strictest from each state, so it will make owning a performance car a real pain.

i get about the same top speed out of each gear in my skyline as i did in my 180sx, the missus SSS pulsar, and my old 5 speed falcon. the nissans just rev a lot harder to do it. but the falcon at 4000rpm sounds like its reving a lot harder than the nissans

can you get to the dials with your fingers? you may be able to just roll them around. i know this could be done with older cars, not sure about new ones though, and you wouldn't want to break it.

so you tried my idea and the pump works. good stuff. i'll have a play around in the car and give you a call when i come up with another thing to try.

there is always the chance that the new battery had been sitting on the shelf for a while and was half dead. also check that the boot light isn't staying on or something like that. (don't hop in, just push the button).

how much of a flutter do you get? is it only 1 or 2 then it dumps normally? the reason i ask is that it looks like the bov has been squashed slightly (to raise the spring tension). if it does it once or twice then dumps then i'd say that is what it is. the other thing you can do is remove the bit of rubber hose (the plumback bit) and make sure there isn't a plug of some sort in there.

what sort of exhaust do you have? if it is a cannon on the rear, change to an oval rear muffler.

the emanage ultimate does have the option to remove the air flow meter. it uses the map sensor off the profec b.

what part of the exhaust install was it that this happened? if it was after the dump pipe was installed, i'd say that where the wastegate is opening, the dump pipe is sitting slightly out of place and the wastegate isn't flowing properly.

i was driving home last night, going along in second at about 40kmh and i gave it a quick squirt for something to do and it just started dancing up the road for about 20m before i lifted off with a smile on my face. i think i might throw my other spare set of tyres up on the roof of the house to let them harden up.

i think you need to put resistors in. there are a few threads in here somewhere covering it.

if it has been tuned before the cooler install it should be safe to drive it without another tune for a while.

thats the one. on the first page is the pic.

i had boost spike, but that was due to the placement of the controller. i redid the plumbing for the controller and it went away. i get a bit of creep during the rev range, but i am only running a $22 boost controller, and at the top end of the rev range i am maxing the turbo out so it is bleeding off a bit.

well mine average is about 16L/100ks. in the missus SSS pulsar i get about 11. on the highway i get about 9 in the SSS and 11 in the skyline. but i do drive rather spiritedly a fair bit of the time.

if the ecu has been tuned properly then there should be no need. however if you have done mods to the car since the remap the safc can be used to fine tune it after these mods. or if you buy a remapped ecu that has rich and retard removed you can run higher boost pressure and use the safc to tune it.

i have them on my 33. just 225/50/16s. i think mine are a bit old and have gone hard. they have been sitting under the house for 6 months. i just put 2 back on the rear and they are a bit slippery. i am going to back the car into the garage in the next few days and do a decent skid to try to wear through some of the hard stuff and get to some slightly softer rubber underneath. they were on the car when i first got it and they were better than they are now. then i put a set of hankook 205/55/16s on (that i got dirt cheap, and they were on stock skyline rims - which my other rims are also) and they gripped a little better in the dry, and a lot better in the wet, although the nexans that were on the back were the worst of the 4 tyres, so that didn't help in the wet. the hankooks were slightly hardened as well, as i think they had been sitting for a while before i bought them.

it also depends on where you live. i live in a pretty hilly town, so while i spend some time going down hill at little or no throttle, i also spend time going up hill at a much higher throttle percentage. the best economy i have gotten was 410k's to 45L. that was about 80% highway, and 20% hard driving round town (a little bit of that with a car full of people). thats just under 11L/100ks.

if it only does it when the you are moving the clutch, then it is probably the pivot bolt needs lubricating. i have posted a pic in an old thread showing how you get to it.

mods? boost level? is it while at a constant speed, or under accleleratin?

the stock ecu can't be reprogrammed. it can be chipped and then tuned, but very few people do this for the r33. you shouldn't need to do this anyway as the ecu should still be within its limits and not have any problems.

or the stock turbo had been highflowed and no-one knew it.

the big thing is driving conditions. i don't do very much highway driving (i class highway driving as 80kmh and above, as you can generally go more than a few kms without stopping). i do purely around town driving. i live about 3kms from work, its a mix of 50kmh and 60kmh zones, and i have to about 4 times in that distance. if you live in the city and get a good run to work a few days of the week, instead of having to stop at every set of lights, you are going to get better economy than the next week where you have to stop every time.

^^^ that is the big thing. there is no point saying 3/4 of a tank, as to 1 person it may be 30L, to another it may be 40L. work it out as L/100k's. so if you get 270k to 40L then you divide 40 by 2.7, which gives you 14.8L/100ks. also if you have a pfc then it should be due to the tune, not anything else if it hasn't changed after the tune. also it depends on what you class as normal driving. if you class it as changing gears at 4000rpm after using 90% throttle to get to 4000rpm, then you will get different economy to someone who may rev to 5000rpm but only use 40% throttle.